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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > Cabover leak with photos

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mikeleblanc413

Texas

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Posted: 02/18/12 10:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NewsW wrote:

If it is leaking in from rain, it is pouring in if you are driving this thing in rain.


GOOD POINT!!!! News W.


Mike LeBlanc
Retired Photographer, Art Educator
Texas


ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 02/18/12 11:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bmoon1952 wrote:

Does anyone know how the roof/nose panel is joined under this cap?? Is the cap just a cosmetic cover over the joint?


In my Jamboree the main structural component of the cab over is the thick plywood floor which is held in place by metal brackets on both sides of the rig. The nose panel extends far enough to eventually meet this plywood flooring(which has a cosmetic sheet on it's bottom to match the RV color) and it is held in place by a number of screws that run through a metal strip - I assume those screws anchor into the 3/4" plywood floor.

Hope this answered your question.


Kevin

Desertsam

Phoenix, AZ

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Posted: 02/20/12 01:33am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mikeleblanc413 wrote:

THANK YOU everyone! A lot of good ideas...I'll try to get a photo of the outside posted tomorrow. I tried to find someone to do the Seal Test pressure test for leaks. Wrote several names provided by the Seal Test website...no response. I like the idea of doing my own pressure test.

I feel I'm much more in control than when I started. Everyone have a GREAT evening!


Leaf blower worked for me. Made a plate out of plywood and cut hole in it. Taped it to open window. ran the end of blower in the hole. Tested till I found the leak in the edge seam of the side to the front panel corner. removed the trim and what a bad job of sealing from WB factory they did. Put back together corectly and no more leak.
Sorry no spell check done.
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2010 Navion A model
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pnichols

Santa Cruz Mountains

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Posted: 02/20/12 10:01am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Any class C cabover nose that is not a one piece fiberglass or molding or metal (like on U-hauls) will eventually leak.


The truth of that may depend somewhat on how much weight is piled up there when traveling. A lot of weight in/on the cabover area can cause fairly large up and down G-Forces constantly stressing the structural and sealing joints ... ESPECIALLY for the situation of allowing children to ride up there. (Of course, none of us would allow kids/grandkids to ride up there, right?!)

We keep our cabover lightly loaded when under way.

By the way, speaking of extended-leverage RV structures leaking .... isn't the front "extended nose" portion of fifth wheels just as structurally prone to leaking as Class C cabovers? If not, why not? I'll bet that fifth wheel RVs have just as big a problem with leaks there as Class C rigs do. Intuitively, it seems like they would HAVE TO HAVE leakage problems just as great.

* This post was edited 02/20/12 10:30am by pnichols *


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randrx2

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Posted: 02/21/12 11:23am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You do not have any pictures of the top of the RV. That is an area I would check where the sidewall meets the roof.


When someone says, "I'm not book smart, I'm street smart." All I hear is, "I'm not real smart, I'm imaginary smart."

ed reed

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Posted: 02/21/12 11:47am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey Mike,
I had a very similar problem with my 'C' this past spring after the ice and snow melt. The cause, in my case, was up on top where the rubber roof met the cab-over; the 2 3-1/2" trim screws did not 'bite' the aluminum/steel support structure and allowed the aluminum trim to work it's way (somewhat) loose thereby allowing the sealer to separate from the afore mentioned and water to seep in. I really had to look closely on this one as it was not very obvious.
My solution was to remove the offending rusted screws, remove the old sealer (caulking), get 1/2" longer stainless srews, screwed that bad boy down tight and re-caulked with Marine 5200 sealer. I also ran the coach and cabin heaters and bought a dehumidifier to remove as much moisture as possible. Residual effects: Exterior pitting on the cab-over which I attribute to resins leeching out from the wood veneer used to seal the outer skin underneath the aluminum. Hope this gives you yet another possibility. Let us know..

Kindest regards,
Ed

mikeleblanc413

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Posted: 02/21/12 03:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks to everyone who has contributed! I am learning that water has lots of ways it can leech into your Class C. You just have to stay vigilant! I've got the leak under control...for the moment...we should have some more rain in a day or so...that'll give me an opportunity to check it...meanwhile, we'll do a week-end trip and ENJOY!!! You do the same!!!!

Snowman9000

IL

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Posted: 02/22/12 06:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mike,
Knowing what you now know, do you think you could have found the problem upon close inspection before purchase? What would you have had to do to find it?


2014 Sunseeker 2300 Class C (Chevy 4500)


mikeleblanc413

Texas

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Posted: 02/22/12 06:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Snowman9000 wrote:

Mike,
Knowing what you now know, do you think you could have found the problem upon close inspection before purchase? What would you have had to do to find it?


Very good question! One that I have thought about in "...what would I have done different".

I'm not sure that I would have found the leak in Arizona...because it gets so little rain in that area...I only "discovered" the leak because we had so much rain the first part of January. I suppose that a pressure test would have revealed the leaks around the running lights on the cabover.

The good thing is that I think I have it under control. I'm hoping that the ooze leak has been stopped with sealing of the trim underneath the cabover just outside the doors. I should rain Thursday and Friday...I'll have a better idea of how successful I have been.

You live and learn. We made a couple of right moves. I suppose that if there is another motorhome purchase, we'll take what we have learned here and build on it...that is the process of lifelong learning.

The one thing I would do different is to have a GOOD pressure test done. While it may not be a deal breaker, it could be a negotiating tool and it would certainly make me aware early on.

Hope this answers your question. If not, let me know. I'll respond promptly. THANK YOU so much for a very good question!

EMD360

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Posted: 02/22/12 09:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looking at this photo of your cabover seam:

It appears that the trim might be a little detached from the edge underneath the cabover. There is caulk on the upper side and it might be pushing the trim out of kilter as oldtrucker described. The caulk on the underside seems to be unevenly applied and maybe does not cover the entire seam?
The plastic center stuff is easy to remove and reinstall. You might try peeling that out and seeing if any of the screws that hold the trim on are getting rusty. That would be a clue as to the leak.
I didn't do the cabover corners but in the rear where ours was leaking, I removed all the screws from the trim and pulled it away from the corners to install two layers of 2" eternabond overlapping at the corner and then reinstalled the trim.
Here is how the screws look under the trim and the vinyl tape gets screwed on under the metal clip which gets folded back over the tape and the end screw.

I couldn't get the last screw holding the trim strip out at the top so I left the trim connected there while I did the eternabonding. I just cleaned up the vinyl tape and reinstalled it in the channel over the screws. Also used stainless steel screws in the trim.

I should probably do the front seams as I can see some gaps in the trim up front too. I caulked them but think the eternabond edges make more sense for more protection.
Hope the camping trip was GREAT!


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