When we had our 25' Nomad TT, loaded about 5,900#, we were pulling with a 2005 Grand Cherokee with a Hemi.
We never pulled in OD and when we went up in the Sierra's going up or down just down shifted, usually 3rd gear, and that worked fine. Going down only rarilly had to touch the brakes.
Just have to anticipate for the situation.
Now we have the 2009 Silverado with the Duramax/Allison and EB to pull our Pinnacle which we p/u mid-March and look forward to a good towing experience.
dfb wrote: Auto you won't need an eb... Manuel and long steep 6 percent grades, then YOU DO need a brake.
A manual has a direct connection between the engine and rearend where as the automatic has the torque converter. The TC can be in an unlocked state and allow the vehicle to coast where a manual will keep the engine engaged and slow the vehicle....(somewhat without an EB)
Downshifting will lock the transmission so the engine/transmission will assist in braking. I admit, not as well as a gasser, but it does help.
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I have an 05 Dodge Cummins automatic with a 31' 5th wheel. Never had a problem so far by using this technique. After reaching a crest I start watching the speedometer really close. When speed builds to the speedlimit I brake hard for a few seconds and bleed off about 10 mph. (When I say brake hard I do not mean slidding the wheels!! Just get rid of 10 mph quickly as possible and allow the wind to cool the pads until the next braking episode) Then as speed picks up to the speed limit or below I brake hard again to bleed off 5 to 10 mph. By using this technique I have never had a white nuckle scarey situation. If you ride the brakes for very long they will heat up and you have no brakes. I've seen 18 wheelers sitting at the bottom of hills in Virginia with brake shoes on fire. Literally flames coming out of the drums. These trucks take the back roads over the mountain to avoid the weight scales on the major highways and then get into big trouble on long steep roads. If you stay on major Interstates or major highways you will have no problem . The design of these highways is such that generally long grades are safe with proper driving techniques. Interstate 64 in the eastern part of WV has one long down hill grade that got lots of people in trouble. The first time I drove this section my mouth was dry and my hands were sweaty. As it all turned out I had absolutely no trouble using the above method and now don't even think twice about driving this section. Try to stay in the left lane on Interstates and keep your foot off the throttle......gravity will give you all you need. After a time or two you will become confident with this method. I drive roads all the time in WV like 219 and have no problems. I've even heard of exhaust brakes failing to operate and if this happens and you don't know how to use the above method what would you do then?
EB would be a major plus. Otherwise tuck in behind a loaded rig and STAY there. It cuts out the IDIOT factor. A Pro with a load will be 'paying attention'.
It'll be a slow go down, but you'll get there.... AND nobody will complain about your speeds.
I HATE the smell of smoking brakes!
On edit; Your trailer brakes will heat up just as fast as your Tow brakes. Maybe quicker.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
dfb wrote: Auto you won't need an eb... Manuel and long steep 6 percent grades, then YOU DO need a brake.
What.....?
A manual has a direct connection between the engine and rearend where as the automatic has the torque converter. The TC can be in an unlocked state and allow the vehicle to coast where a manual will keep the engine engaged and slow the vehicle....(somewhat without an EB)
In either case, since the diesel doesn't have a throttle valve like a gasser, it won't have the effective engine braking that a gasser would.
Going by personal experience. 3 PSD with autos and one Dodge Ram with a stick..towed the Sierras, the trinity alps, up thru Parleys Summit, all oner the mountainous west. I have never had the experience of the truck picking up speeds like I have had with the manuel. Just my experiences.
A Bennett wrote: Yeah, Im pretty much a midwest flatlander, drove thru the mountains once... in a Ford Escort
MItchell, I'm not worried about the wife, She'll be awed by the view
I dont expect to have any problems with my set up, and you are giving me what I asked for, so to make sure I got it clear,
Downshift one gear on the decent,
Determine a "safe speed" once I hit the safe speed, tag the foot brake quickly until Im 10-15 MPH lower than "safe" and repeat...
The TT Brakes will engage with the TV Brakes, any reason to use TT Brakes separatly, (other than the TV Brakes overheating)
Start down a steep hill in a low enough gear that you won't need your brakes. Watch your tach, and don't be afraid to let the engine rev. Much better to up-shift on a hill if needed, than trying to brake and down-shift......
2008 Dodge 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2007 Komfort 212 on 225 75R 15E Maxxis ST Tires.........
On your 06 make sure you use the Tow/Haul position on the transmission shifter. This will keep the Torque Converter locked in both OD and 3rd gear. Possibly 2nd gear also but I'm not sure. This works real well to retard your speed.
06 Dodge 3500,Dually,CTD,Auto,QC,4X4,Torklifts,Fastguns
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I have pulled the Alaska Highway both ways with my 04 Dodge. Pulled a 12,500 lb fifth wheel on the return trip and a 10,000 lb horse trailer going up- no engine brake. Those are big mountains along that route and only once did I feel like I really wanted the EB (brake fade is a scary thing halfway down a mountain). My current truck has an EB and I wouldn't have a truck without now. The "mountains" you will encounter are not really worthy of the name. I drove from Oklahoma to DC in December and it was a piece of cake. I say you will be just fine as long as the hills further south aren't any larger than what I encountered.
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A Bennett wrote: I am planning a 3600 mile trip this July from KCMO to the NC Outer Banks, towing a 31 ft 9500# Keystone with the 96 Dodge 3500 automatic, I dont have an engine/exhaust/Jacobs brake on this.
Is is worth investing in one if i rarely see the mountains?
What advise do you have based on experience on mountain decent?
Brakes vs Transmission? Lower gears etc...
Seems like Riding the brakes will cause them to overheat, but coasting until you HAVE to use the brakes could cause them to overheat also, What are your best practices?
Dont want to lose sleep at night, but need to be cautious, my family is counting on me.
Those hills back east are just little baby hills. Try the big one out west.
2005 Chev 5.3 Supercharged 395HP 425 T hp. Two wheels on front, 2 on back. one seat, tint windows. front and rear bumpers, headlights, windows. Door on each side. Heater, floor mats, 6 Reese candy bars, junk behind seats, some dirt. Pulls so hard.
I freely admit to being 'Chicken'. I almost bought a diesel so that I could get the engine brake. Having experienced that 'feeling' on the downhill side. I'd prefer to NOT use the brakes very much at all. In the end I got the gasser for the all around lower costs, but if you already own the diesel, I'd not half step at this point.
Get the EB installed, you won't regret it. And you;ll get some of the cost back at resale time.
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