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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Driving in the snow with TC

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bb_94401

Columbia Falls. MT

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Posted: 02/29/12 12:15am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you are going to be traveling in the mountains alot, good heavy duty cross bar reinforced tire chains, with tightening cams, on all wheels will help when the conditions get extreme (ice storm, rain on compact snow, a couple of feet of new, wet snow in a Sno-Park lot that you are stuck in, as all the plows are busy just trying to keep the highway open). In deep snow those V-bar dual triple heavy duty chains on the back, along with chains on the front may get you out, if you can't wait. Just having a single chain on each outer wheel of a dual won't help in deep snow as the unchained inner dual floats and the outer wheel with the chain just digs a hole. I've only used the triples a couple times, as I now avoid Sno-parks when big storms are coming. The best part about a TC is you can just stay put and wait for a better conditions to travel.

If it is just for the highway chain requirements and there is enough snow for 4wd, then chains only on the front wheels works well. If you look at the Oregon DOT requirement for placement, they be need to be on the back wheel when in 2wd. In California I've had the chain control guys insist they be on the back, even in 4wd. To make installation of chains on the outer dual wheel easier, I carry a ramp made from two 16 inch long 2x8s glued together and beveled on each end. The upper flat part should be short enough to fit between cross links. Place it under the inner dual, drive up on it and install the chains that you'd normally use on the fronts.

I think the biggest issue for a truck with a TC on it isn't so much after you get into the snow zone, it is getting to it. Chains don't help in the transition zone between rain on the road and lots of compact snow on the road. If it were me I'd get a set of studded winter tires. That is the route I took. They can save you on the black ice, the ice on bridges when the rest of the road is bare, the bands of snow melt running across the road that freezes as it cools down at night, etc. The Toyo M608z can be studded if you like those tires, or find a studdable tire with more siping. A set of six will be expensive, but compared to the cost of your truck, the TC and the value you place on yourself and passengers it is insignificant. Having my tires hook up while drifting sideways in a TC is something I never want to experience.


'05 Ram 3500, 4x4, DRW, LB, 6spd man, CTD, PRXB exhaust brake

'01 Corsair 10'8" - 4,200 lbs., Xantrex XADC 80A, Link 20, 4-Lifeline GPL-4CT, PowerGate Isolater, 2 AWG wire, PI 30A EMS, 2 Honda EU2000i, parallel kit, ext. duration tank.


Coastal Wanderers

Medford,NJ

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Posted: 02/29/12 09:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure you have a good coat of wax on everything on your camper or a quick wash with Zip wax as the road salt and brine solutions are very hard on the surfaces. I was surprised at how fast it started to corrode surgaces and hardware. Just sayin.

Joss

Oregon

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Posted: 02/29/12 06:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JoeChiOhki wrote:

Coastal Wanderers wrote:

Make sure you have a good coat of wax on everything on your camper or a quick wash with Zip wax as the road salt and brine solutions are very hard on the surfaces. I was surprised at how fast it started to corrode surgaces and hardware. Just sayin.


Mercifully something that we don't have out here in the West, they either put gravel down or attempt to plow.

The rest of the traction equation is up to the driver to provide.


Yes it is.......

Glacier D

Port Orchard, Wa

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Posted: 02/29/12 06:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here in Washington when chains are required either for vehicles over 10K or all vehicles thee usually is an exception of 4WD and AWD vehicles. I work full time at a ski area in Washington and live full time in my camper, every week I go down and up the mountain and I have never used chains. Trust me I have driven in some nasty stuff, but have never had an issue.


2011 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 Crew Cab/LB, Rancho RS9000XL, Stable Loads, Superhitch and FastGuns. 2009 Eagle Cap 1050, Hickory interior with on-board generator, A/C and Honda EU2000

mountainkowboy

Socal High Desert

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Posted: 02/29/12 02:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I live in the mountains and have a 2wd dually and I can tell you that even with chains, without the TC I get almost no traction in the snow. I only chain the outside tires when I have to use chains. I choose to not really drive it when chains are required, since I live in "snow country" I dont camp in it. I will wait the storm out rather than chain up and drive in it.


Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Dixie & Hanna
90 F350 S/C Dually, Camper Pkg, 460/ZF 5spd, Banks Powerpack, Torklift Superhitch/32" extension.
90 S&S 11 SCB
94 Alpenlite 29RK DL
06 CRV
64 IH Scout 80

JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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Posted: 02/29/12 02:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Coastal Wanderers wrote:

Make sure you have a good coat of wax on everything on your camper or a quick wash with Zip wax as the road salt and brine solutions are very hard on the surfaces. I was surprised at how fast it started to corrode surgaces and hardware. Just sayin.


Mercifully something that we don't have out here in the West, they either put gravel down or attempt to plow.

The rest of the traction equation is up to the driver to provide.


Follow me as I full-time the Redneck Way at The Journey of the Redneck Express
CB Channel 17 Redneck Express
'1992 Dodge W-250 "Dually" Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed 4x4 V8 5.9L gashog w/4.10 Geared axles
'1974 KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in


mastercraft1995

Salem, Or

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Posted: 03/01/12 04:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use to drive to with our Lance camper to Mt Hood Meadows or Timberline every weekend to ski and never put my truck in 4x4 to get to the mountain. Many times it was chains or traction tires required. I did have studless snowflake tires on the truck.


2012 Tundra, Super White, Double Cab, 4x4, TRD, 5.7L
1999 Nash 25S

louiskathy

Oregon (presently)

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Posted: 03/01/12 05:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

clicky

http://www.wimp.com/schoolbuses/

This was invented in Sweden in the 1970's... and I've never
seen these being used in the USA or anything like them.

Seems like a good idea to be able to get the use of chains at
at touch of a button when needed and retracted the same way when not needed.


Kathy

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 03/01/12 07:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

louiskathy wrote:

clicky

http://www.wimp.com/schoolbuses/

This was invented in Sweden in the 1970's... and I've never
seen these being used in the USA or anything like them.

Seems like a good idea to be able to get the use of chains at
at touch of a button when needed and retracted the same way when not needed.


Trimet here in Portland is using them: http://blog.oregonlive.com/commuting/201......../02/despite_a_spit_of_snow_this_mo.html

I'm pretty sure I've seen school or private buses with them.

Retired Coastie

Eugene, OR, USA

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Posted: 02/29/12 08:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Owners Manual says that if I must use chains, use them on the rear. I heard once that it has something to do with the anti-lock brake system. 2004 2500HD 4X4 Chevy.


Larry Pierce 2004 2500HD, X-cab, LWB, 4X4, 6.0 gasser. 265Es, IPD anti-sway bar, Rancho 9000s, Ride-Rite bags,

2003 NL "Northern" 9' - 6" w/ Honda 2000i, Polar Cub 9200 btu a/c, 40W solar, other goodies.

2002 Fisher 18 1/2 ft, 115 Merc, 24V Minn-Kota.

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