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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Upgrading the wiring on electric brakes

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Bob1180

Lancaster, Ohio

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Posted: 02/29/12 10:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I read an articial a while back about upgrading the wiring on the electrical brakes to obtain better brake proformace. It was about switching to larger wire going fron the conection box of the seven way plug to center point and then branching off to each brake with the same length and gauge wire. Any thoughts on this and has anyone done it had it done?

troll3193

SouthWest, MI USA

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Posted: 02/29/12 11:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did it to mine, check out page 2 of this post...

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/24275368/gotomsg/24292112.cfm#24292112

Bryan


2006 RAM 3500 MegaCab w/Cummins Turbo Diesel
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wcjeep

Tacoma, Wa

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Posted: 02/29/12 12:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I rewired my car hauler. I also repainted, new deck and converted to led lights art the same time. I used better wire. I think the original problem was poor splicing.

pulsar

Lewisville, NC

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Posted: 02/29/12 12:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from Forum Technical Support.

Bob1180

Lancaster, Ohio

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Posted: 02/29/12 01:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Troll3193, did you notice a diffrence in the trailer braking after you did this?

troll3193

SouthWest, MI USA

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Posted: 02/29/12 01:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob1180 wrote:

Troll3193, did you notice a diffrence in the trailer braking after you did this?


yep, much more even and reliable. I had been wanting to do it for a while, as I really think the way they come from the factory is very suspect... what triggered me to do it was I was getting a short in one of the axles, causing my brakes to fail.

Also this way they are wired in a star configuration, so if you lose one wire, you lose one brake..

Most trailers are wired where both wheels on the same axle are in series, so if you lose the connection to the first one in the series, you lose two brakes..

If I bought a new trailer tomorrow, it would be one of the first upgrades I would do.

Bryan

ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 02/29/12 01:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a nice new roll of 10awg wire laying in the garage just waiting for the weather to get better so I can rewire mine. My TT has big over sized brakes that even after adjusting, just aren't very strong. I'm hoping the new wire and connections will correct this.


Scott, Grace and Wesly
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BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 02/29/12 02:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One of the moderators of this forum and my good friend, LAdams, has done just that. Here is a link to his article, complete with pictures of his work.

In addition, here is another link to an excellent post by another very good friend JBarca.

I think these two posts will help you a lot. Good luck.
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
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BenK

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Posted: 02/29/12 03:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A friend I've turned onto this forum is now asking for help in rewiring his

I've pointed him to Les's and John's write-up, but this guy is an accountant who
knows less than nothing on wiring

Budget is also a huge issue, as #12 or #10 AWG is expensive, more so stranded

I've designed very large power converters and 1000MCM wire several bucks a foot
'back then', so used buss bar and now thinking of using copper buss for this
guys trailer

For now, thinking of using 1/2" copper water pipe (rigid) inside of PVC water
pipe. It would have more cross sectional area and surface area than
#10AWG and way cheaper

At the unions, there is a problem on HOW2 keep it inside the PVC and still able
to solder the unions. Since the rigid copper tubing comes in 20 foot sections,
am going to terminate them inside of plastic conduit boxes and then silver solder
the ends to a hunk of copper bar that is threaded for #10-32 fasteners or if the
copper bar expensive, will solder a length of copper wire (maybe #8 AWG) to the
end of the copper pipe and run it to a terminal block to spider out to where ever

Just my noodling for now and will settle up on it when he gets back to me on
whether it's a go or not and how much $$$$


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 02/29/12 03:16pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Forgot, the insulated ground wire will be inside the copper tubing or outside
along the PVC pipe (un-insulated)...or another water tube (copper).

The PVC pipe will be held with 'U' brackets or easily held with tie wraps or some
such (cheap, but solid)

Plastic junction boxes are inexpensive and water tight.

So the wire runs to the brakes and to the front connector would be 'wire'

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