I read an articial a while back about upgrading the wiring on the electrical brakes to obtain better brake proformace. It was about switching to larger wire going fron the conection box of the seven way plug to center point and then branching off to each brake with the same length and gauge wire. Any thoughts on this and has anyone done it had it done?
Troll3193, did you notice a diffrence in the trailer braking after you did this?
yep, much more even and reliable. I had been wanting to do it for a while, as I really think the way they come from the factory is very suspect... what triggered me to do it was I was getting a short in one of the axles, causing my brakes to fail.
Also this way they are wired in a star configuration, so if you lose one wire, you lose one brake..
Most trailers are wired where both wheels on the same axle are in series, so if you lose the connection to the first one in the series, you lose two brakes..
If I bought a new trailer tomorrow, it would be one of the first upgrades I would do.
I have a nice new roll of 10awg wire laying in the garage just waiting for the weather to get better so I can rewire mine. My TT has big over sized brakes that even after adjusting, just aren't very strong. I'm hoping the new wire and connections will correct this.
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
A friend I've turned onto this forum is now asking for help in rewiring his
I've pointed him to Les's and John's write-up, but this guy is an accountant who
knows less than nothing on wiring
Budget is also a huge issue, as #12 or #10 AWG is expensive, more so stranded
I've designed very large power converters and 1000MCM wire several bucks a foot
'back then', so used buss bar and now thinking of using copper buss for this
For now, thinking of using 1/2" copper water pipe (rigid) inside of PVC water
pipe. It would have more cross sectional area and surface area than
#10AWG and way cheaper
At the unions, there is a problem on HOW2 keep it inside the PVC and still able
to solder the unions. Since the rigid copper tubing comes in 20 foot sections,
am going to terminate them inside of plastic conduit boxes and then silver solder
the ends to a hunk of copper bar that is threaded for #10-32 fasteners or if the
copper bar expensive, will solder a length of copper wire (maybe #8 AWG) to the
end of the copper pipe and run it to a terminal block to spider out to where ever
Just my noodling for now and will settle up on it when he gets back to me on
whether it's a go or not and how much $$$$
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...