rvviaje
Texas
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I have a 29bhs Laredo 2010 TT. I want to add a second AC. That trailer has only one vent very close to the Air conditioner so I think I have to open a new hole in the roof , maybe over the master bedroom. How can I remove the ceiling to check for the best position?
I want to run a cable through the walls, so i can connect the new ac to a 20amp line of the rv park. If all the project is too difficult maybe I can buy a portable AC. Does anybody has experience with those?
Thanks
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donn0128
Pronounced Ore-gun
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Unless you are wired for a second AC it is going to be a night mare to attempt to do. Getting wire from the AC unit to ground level of the trailer is going to require you to open up the walls so you can drill holes to run the wire through the studs. That's, just for starters. Then opening up the ceiling so you can brace for the 14X14 opening and the weight of the AC unit is another major project. IMHO I would say forget it.
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fordsooperdooty
Southern California
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Call Keystone with the RV's VIN number and ask for a wiring schematic and roof blueprints. Chances are there is already wiring up there and bracing for a 2nd roof A/C...as often it is a dealer installed option.
My posts shouldn't be taken for factual data. They are purely fictional, for entertainment purposes and should not be constituted as actually related to scientific, technical, engineering, legal, spiritual or practical advice. Amen. 
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old guy
Oregon (pronounced Or e gun)
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if it is a dealer install option, then there would be a vent already isntalled
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Wills250psd
walnutcove NC
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old guy wrote:if it is a dealer install option, then there would be a vent already isntalled X2 but it is doable if your handy.
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eHoefler
ozark mountains
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old guy wrote:if it is a dealer install option, then there would be a vent already isntalled
X3
The roof is most likely not re-enforced for the added weight of the A/C.
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railrode1
Charleston, S.C.
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The only reinforcement in mine was 2x4 blocking in all sides of the vent opening. This is so the A/C could compress the inside and outside of the roof to seal. Other than that, the trusses were the same. Most trusses are spaced for an 14x14 inch opening, in between.
2009 Sandpiper 345QB 39'
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Retired JSO
Florida
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If you have a vent already installed, it will be easy.
I installed a second A/C in my fifthwheel a few years back. Just removed a vent in the bedroom and in she went. The vent happened to be framed so the worst problem was done. I ran the wire from the A/C down into an adjacent closet then into a GE plastic electric box with a 20 amp breaker. I continued with 10-3 cable from the box down into the basement then through conduit to the driver side. I terminated the cable in a flush mount male 15 amp water proof receptacle and box. When I get to any campground, I can hook up my 12-3, 25' extension cord to the campground pedestal 20 amp and run the front A/C and the 30 amp shore cord runs the 15,000 main unit.
I have since installed 2 additional duplex receptacles in the bedroom area to an additional ground fault breaker in that same GE box. I can run an additional 1500 watt heater up there during the winter without taxing the 30 amp service.
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BillB800si
S.E. MICHIGAN
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Most modern 5th wheelers are already prep'ed for a 2nd air conditioner. Some trailers are if there's an existing vent up there.If there's a vent then remove the flange and see if theres' 120 volt wiring to the area.. Otherwise you're in for some structural/electrical modifications. How about upgrading your existing air conditioner to a 15,000 BTU unit? If you already have a 15,000 BTU unit maybe you need the freon checked. The air coming out should be ice cold..
Good luck...
Bill B. (Michigan)
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jyh818
Chino, CA
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I tried the portable AC unit once. It does the job, but you'll need to have an exhaust port to blow out the hot air.
We were in Vegas in July with 117 degrees. With both AC blasting, inside was a balmy 96 degrees. It did say that it'll cool it down 20 degrees from the outside...which it did, but it was still too hot.
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