Talking about... great find just now on Diesel injectors and cavitation!
Did I tell you the other day, I located an patent on a fuel cooler?
We all have to do something to spend our time, everyone to there own
On edit : Why don't you post something on cavitation, that is something that does not seem to be a concern on the forums , or at least it is not talked about that much. It is something I protect against with my 7.3
On edit : Why don't you post something on cavitation, that is something that does not seem to be a concern on the forums , or at least it is not talked about that much. It is something I protect against with my 7.3
Think forums are not up to speed on 90% of the engineering issues that go into making a diesel work properly.
So much high tech goes into a modern diesel (from late 1990s onward) that it has largely left the technicians and authorized diesel shops, let alone the shade tree set.
So many of the problems I see stem from fundamental lack of technical / applied science / engineering knowhow that it is quite difficult to even get the issue explained.
Cavitation, for example, is a well documented scientific phenomena. But in order to understand it, these days, you are into Computational Fluid Dynamics models, material science, fluid properties, or when the pressure / temperature gets high enough, supercritical fluids, and many other issues --- including standing waves, resonant frequencies, etc.
Very hard for your average owner to understand that cavitation can "eat" away solid cast iron inside a block, and how important coolant system maintenance and chemistry is to proper operations.
Some time ago, I posted a little piece about how a bad ground wire strap resulted in current finding its way to ground via the block, and it quickly depleted the coolant's anti corrosion additives then put a hole in the block. The fix is not just in coolant chemistry, but a electrical fault.
Most of the technical talent that do know this stuff generally keep mum on forums, partly because it is required by their employer, but also because it doesn't make much sense for them to talk.
Look at the 6.7 fuel pump issue --- we went down a lot of roads, and we are pretty close to a dead end with lots of suspects, but no serious way to move forward without the resources of a major OEM.
There is only so much you can do with stone knives.
I had a great deal of difficulty convincing people that the "data" they see read out of an OBDII port is not real data, but massaged by processing and not necessary related to what the sensor sees at any given moment.
Or try to convince people that just because part ABC is improved, that doesn't necessarily make it better as the point of failure / greatest weakness just moves elsewhere.
The ARPs are one of the finest examples of that -- improper installation of ARPs in the fanciful theory that more pressure is better have cost more than a few 6.0s repeated, multiple HG failure after ARPs are installed.
But few who do ARPs even know about the TSB that address this issue.
* This post was
edited 03/10/12 10:59am by NewsW *
Few know that the early 99 7.3 needs to run a heavy duty conventional coolant with SCA or a conventional coolant ,and add SCA. No ELC coolants in the early 99's, 99.5 yes. That fact comes from International. Many run the ELC, how many problems arrive from ELC in the early 99's I have no idea, but I choose not to find out , Internationals warning is good enough for me.
Your interior lamps should not be staying on that long. I suspect one of your door ajar switches is sticking. Quite common, especially in dusty areas. Get a can of penetrating fluid and spray it in all your door latches, then close/open the doors several times. Repeat if necessary.
Usually you can determine which door is the problem by opening and closing each door with the ignition on. The lights should turn off immediately after the door is closed. If they stay on after a particular door is closed, that is the one with the sticky switch.
Rolo2 wrote: I mhave a 2003 turbo 6.0 diesel Ford pick up. Is it advisable to change the head bolts on the engine having experienced no problems so far?
I would go by the Ford Owner's manual and follow to the letter what they say needs to be done regarding maintenance.
Blown head gaskets are usually the result of something else and fixing the root cause is usually cheaper as they can still blow with ARPs if you get a blown EGR cooler caused by a plugged oil cooler. (or tow with a race tune)
15 min of dome lights should not affect your dual battery setup unless something else is wrong. When my batteries got weak (1 year since replacement) they would work fine while "on the road" but after a few days driving around town it would crank slower and slower until it needed charging or a boost. 2 new batteries (only 1 under warranty - different story for a different time) and it worked fine (until the alternator died). Even the new alternator I installed didn't put out then voltages I am used to seeing. Barely above 12 at idle.
Supreme Oppressor wrote: When my batteries got weak (1 year since replacement) they would work fine while "on the road" but after a few days driving around town it would crank slower and slower until it needed charging or a boost. 2 new batteries (only 1 under warranty - different story for a different time) and it worked fine (until the alternator died). Even the new alternator I installed didn't put out then voltages I am used to seeing. Barely above 12 at idle.
If your electrical load is stock, and you don't have some big draw on like AC, and you are only getting 12v at idle you got bigger problems.
Start by checking for a bad ground from alternator / engine / battery to frame / chassis.
Then check for alternator pigtail --- high probability it has an internal fault.
Then check for sense wire.
If you replaced with a non identical Ford part number, you probably have a crapped out alternator after 1 year.
Post like these keep pulling me away from Diesel and more towards Gassers.
I use test strips on me every day for my Diabetes, I hate those things, but they are part of life. I suppose I could manage a few test strips on my truck if needed. LOL
Anyhow, I vote for the $5.00 Radiator cap fix every 15k miles, the video was very compelling.
Thanks!
TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager
"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
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