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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Dash AC Compressor wont come on>>>>

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Seabass69

Texas

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Posted: 03/13/12 11:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The compressor has never come on once (on its own), the high side has never bee n over 170. I believe I have to much in it also that's why I stopped and gave been trying understand why the compressor won't come on......

* This post was edited 03/13/12 11:32am by Seabass69 *

Seabass69

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Posted: 03/13/12 11:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

Seabass69 wrote:

lol, no 104 oz. 2 lines 40' long so its going to hold a good bit of freon


BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION by non professionals. They assume since the lines run 40 foot it takes a LOT more coolant. IT DOES NOT. Like I stated, your system holds no more than 4 lbs usually about 3.5 lbs. Doug (yes, I am a professional). Once you OVERCHARGE a system, That has a high pressure switch, then the compressor will kick out from too high of pressure. Too MUCH coolant is as bad(actually worse) as too LITTLE coolant. Where is this relay you mention? Is it a Bosch or a metal relay? Have you replaced the dryer and the expansion valve? On a system as old as yours, that needs to be done as with no history since you purchased used and so far adding coolant does not get you there, you need to start out at the beginning. Doug



How much for you to come look at it, I'm in waxahachie/ red oak?

mobilefleet

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Posted: 03/13/12 12:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

check your messages

garry1p

Oklahoma

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Posted: 03/13/12 12:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IMO You really need to bleed off some of the pressure and jump out the low side switch.

The compressor on my toad was just fine went into a store came out and compressor would not engage jumped around the low pressure switch and worked fine.

The low pressure switch ranged in price from $24 to over $65 so I took it in with me. On the Internet site it showed there were 2 part numbers available for same system and not interchangeable. They had to order and sure enough wrong one took an extra day to fix.

AC was on my Jeep but it looks exactly like the one in the MH.


Garry1p


1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport


dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 03/13/12 04:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rgatijnet1 wrote:

The pressure that you are reading is the line pressure from the freon overcharged condition. In other words, "freon can" pressure. It is not the running pressure from your compressor. You need to start over and add freon and the proper amount of oil while watching your gauges. As mentioned, your compressor shut off due to an overcharge and the pressure in your system is similar to the air pressure in your tires.

ANOTHER Misconception. There is NO WAY to know HOW much oil to add and you never need to add oil unless you have had a catastrophic break in the system. The ONLY correct way to get the correct amount of oil is to remove the compressor and drain the oil and then add the ozs required for that compressor. You can add a tablespoon but no more if you feel you have lost some oil. Doug

Seabass69

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Posted: 03/13/12 09:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

well i have the compressor working now, found a bad connection on the low press switch.... ant the switch looks nothing like a normal lp switch.... thanks for your help

dennis45

Alberta

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Posted: 05/04/12 12:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And the beat goes on. The compressor on my system siezed up after being replaced last fall. Turns out the dryer had piled up allowing desicant beads through the system and resulting in siezed compressor. Had to replace the compressor, dryer & hose kit (obsolete dryer) and remove, clean and repair the condenser and evaporator coils. We have cold air now! Never try to do stuff half assed is the moral to this story.


Dennis & Carol
2003 Dutchstar 40' 3 Slides, 8.3L ISC W/banks Kit 465HP,
Spartan Chassis
2010 Taurus Toad


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