I've been following this forum for a few weeks now and gathering an abundance of really good information. Thank you to all. I am planning a 3 week trip in May throughout the Southwest and managed to convince my wife that it would be more economical to buy a pop up then rent one, as we have done in the past. (2008 Jayco) which I liked. She amazingly agreed!!!!
Anyway, I have narrowed my search to a 2007 Fleetwood Bayside which is in impeccable condition, owned by a neighbor (He is asking $9,000). And I just looked at a 2008 Fleetwood Utah which has been used less than 10 times, but not quite as clean. (been sitting for some time). I am keeping my budget under $7,000. So, I have a few questions.
1) I will most likely go with the Utah, as the Bayside is a little out of my price range.
2) Any glaring problems to look for in a trailer that my not have been used over the past 1-2 years?
3) Any pros/cons listed with either of the above trailers?
4) When picking up the pop up, I plan on checking the following:
5)water (sink, outdoor shower, drainage, water heater);
6) Fridge - operate on DC, AC and propane - Is there away to confirm it is operating by each power source??
7) Propane - operates indoor stove, outdoor stove, water heater
8) The particle board (I was surprised to see that) under the floor looks to be in great condition. Is there anything in particular I should look for?
9) small tear in the screen on the slide out. And small tear in the window. any preventive measures here to prevent progression?
10) front storage box, spare tire, awning
11) Roof for delamination, sag, leakage.
12) Axel, wheels, brakes, etc, - what should I be looking for here? Any recommendations on having mechanic checking this out. What would I want to ask them to look for.
Can the Fleetwood Utah be lifted, bigger wheels, more durable axel - if I wanted to go off road? Has anyone done this.
Please let me know what I may be missing. I believe with some TLC, this Pop Up will clean up very nice and be perfect vessel for my wife and 2 small kids. Sorry for the lengthy post.
Soulds like you have a good idea what to look for. I might suggest looking for uneven tire wear. Could be a bent axle. Also battery condition. Have the seller show you that all appliances work and if there are holding tanks are they leaking. What is included? hoses, cords, outdoor cook top? Best of luck. What a grand adventure. Take lots of pics.
Wonderful wife & 4 Really Fun kids
2008 KIA Sedona 3.8L 24 valve V-6
2001 Bantam Trail Lite B-19
the bayside is way overpriced, I realize it's a tricky thing to haggle with neighbors, so I can see why you'd pass.
The Utah is a heavy camper with a light tongue weight and has suffered from serious sway issues in the past. IF you go with the Utah, plan on using an anti-sway bar, and packing the camper carefully to help with that issue.
this is a 2008 so it won't have an ABS roof - no delamination, but check for leaks.
I would have the brakes adjusted and bearings repacked, and honestly, I'd consider replacing the tires to start out worry free.
best of luck! sounds like a fun trip!
2011 Honda Pilot
2009 Jayco 1207
Eat at Mary's Hot Tamales - Magnolia Ave, Knoxville, TN!
Thanks to all. First stop will be to the tire shop for repacked bearings, new tires, etc. Any recommendations on tire brand, size, etc. I am picking it up tomorrow. I will be pulling with a 2010 F150. It has the trailer anti sway and trailer brake. One thing I noticed when checking out the trailer the other day. I hooked up the trailer power cord to my 7 pin receptacle on my truck. I then tested the lights in the trailer (trailer battery was not hooked up).
All the exterior lights (brake lights, side lights, tail lights, etc. worked fine) The interior lights did not work when hooked up to the truck. The owner said he thinks it is because of the wiring from the truck - he said Sometimes its not set up properly. I was thinking it's either because the battery wasn't hooked up on the trailer or there was a problem. Does anyone have any insight in this. Also, can i get a good check on the trailer brake by hooking up and then just applying the trailer brake switch in my truck. Would that stop/slow the truck. What is the proper way to operate trailer brakes. Do I use them simulateously with the foot pedal? Thank's again for the wisdom.
On your last post, it is quite likely the truck does not have the "charge" line wired up. I have heard and seen too many factory setups for the charge line where the gauge of wire used is too small to be of real value. In my previous vehicle, I re-ran the charge line from the battery, with in-line fuse, to pin 4 on the truck-side receptical. See here towards the bottom of website for a full color diagram.
If you have a multimeter, you can see if that pin is hot. Use pin 1 as the ground (negative) and pin 4 as the charge line (positive). If you get no voltage doing that, then you know it's on the truck side. If you do get 12v coming out of pin 4, then you know it's on the camper's side.
If it's the truck, then have a mechanic install a + line to that pin. The thicker the wire, the better. The smaller the gauge number, the thicker it is. It is like a fraction, but never represented as such. Example: 10ga wire is larger than 18ga wire (1/10 being larger than 1/18). Anyway...
Good luck and welcome to PUP ownership. It has it's ups and downs. We just went out this last weekend and had a blast.
One thing I noticed when checking out the trailer the other day. I hooked up the trailer power cord to my 7 pin receptacle on my truck. I then tested the lights in the trailer (trailer battery was not hooked up).
All the exterior lights (brake lights, side lights, tail lights, etc. worked fine)
The vehicle lights (tail, brake, clearance, etc) are run from the truck's electrical system and separate from the battery/house system.
The interior lights did not work when hooked up to the truck. The owner said he thinks it is because of the wiring from the truck - he said Sometimes its not set up properly.
There may be three sources of this problem I can think of. First, as bondebond posted, you may not have the charge line from the truck. This line would provide power from the truck to the trailer's battery and house 12V system.
The second possible source is that the kill switch didn't dis-engage. My kill switch is under the galley and if it's not set up quite right it won't engage and I won't have overhead lights. Some kill switches are on the rails and disengage when the roof lifts.
Third is a loose wire in the quick-connect to the roof. My connector is located near the driver-side rear lift post.
Also, can i get a good check on the trailer brake by hooking up and then just applying the trailer brake switch in my truck. Would that stop/slow the truck. What is the proper way to operate trailer brakes. Do I use them simulateously with the foot pedal?
Sounds like you have the brake controller already. That's good. Here's how I would check the brakes for general function.
1. Hook up and while stopped, engage the trailer brake switch. If your controller has a voltage output, this should be 10-12V depending upon the setting & controller.
2. While the manual trailer brake switch is engaged, let off the truck's brake while in gear (don't give it gas). You should feel the trailer pulling against the truck. This indicates that the trailer's brakes are gripping. My trailer won't give at this point.
3. Release the manual trailer brake switch. The truck & trailer should be able to move now. You may need give the truck a little gas, but you should feel the trailer brakes release.
4. Get going about 10-20 mph and re-engage the manual trailer brake switch. You will feel the trailer brakes and it should slow you down pretty quickly. The trailer's brakes are functional. Now you need to follow the brake controller instructions to properly adjust the amount of braking the trailer does.
5. If the brakes don't operate this way, I suggest getting them checked out by a qualified mechanic.
What is the proper way to operate trailer brakes. Do I use them simulateously with the foot pedal?
The controller should operate the brakes in conjunction with the truck. You don't need to manually apply the switch while stepping on the brake pedal. You want both hands on the steering wheel, especially when you do an emergency stop. You don't want to be engaging the manual switch when looking down into the side window at a kid in the car that just pulled out in front of you. (kid & car are OK, his underwear may not be)
The trailer's brakes are designed to safely stop the trailer, not the truck.
One more suggestion: Get the battery soon. Unless your trailer has a separate small battery for the brakes, the trailer relies on the house battery to supply power to engage the brakes when the break-away switch is engaged. This may be required to comply with your state's DOT laws.
If you're like 99.99% of us on the forum, you bought the trailer to ENJOY! Have fun and don't worry about making little mistakes. We've all been there!
2004 Toyota Tundra SR5 (V8, 4WD, TP, TRD)
2005 Fleetwod Allegance with axle flip
Honeywell 2000i Generator
Me, DW, DS, DD, Dog & Camping Kitty
Picked up my 08 fleetwood Utah today. Dropped it off to get bearings replaced, new battery, pressure test the propane and had pinched water line to the outdoor shower. Everything is is real clean. The charge line on my truck was dead, so plan on taking that to Ford dealer. I imagine it's under warranty, as the vehicle came with a tow package. I appreciate the wealth of knowledge on this forum. Looking forward to many great adventures.
Good deal. What has worked for myself, and others on here as well, is to set up your first camp in Camp Driveway. Spend a night within reach of the house to check out all of the systems and get a better idea of what to stock it with. One of the most important things you can take along with you early on is a notebook and pen - to write down all of the things you've forgotten or did not think to bring.
Hook up all of the systems and put them through a little work out. Be sure and sanitize the water system, as you have no real idea what's in there.
Welcome to the club!! We have been 1000's of miles with ours and spend a month or more in it each year. Get use to fixing things on the fly at the campsite and get to know the ins and outs of how everything works and is put together. Keep a tool kit inside the camper with various screws, vinyl tape, velcro, etc. Keep a First Aid kit on board too for those little ones!! You can have the bigger repairs done at the dealership. These things are pretty cheaply made and things will inevitably break for sure (and for the most part use the same or similar appliances/parts) !!! So, check ebay often (or your big RV center if you have one close by) and get accustomed to replacing/fixing things and buying parts.
All of the stuff like backing up at night in a deserted part of the campground with no lights and no clue what the heck the place looks like with trees on all sides and your wife in the back telling you this way, no that way, no this way with all sorts of hand gestures that you can't see anyway because she doesn't get that you don't see her at the back of the trailer, nor do you hear her all the way back there and doesn't she need to go to the restroom because it sure would make it easier on me if she shuts up and stops flailing her arms while I am trying to back this thing up, you will learn along the way if you haven't already with some other type of camping adventures.
We have been through ALL kinds of weather, from snow to below 20 degree weather, to above 105 degree weather, to incredible hail, to bad thunderstorms, crazy wind, to side stepping waterspouts over Galveston Island, to.....Know that it's all part of the great adventure. I wouldn't change ANY of it for anything!!!