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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Brake controler

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Bob1180

Lancaster, Ohio

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Posted: 04/05/12 08:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 5th wheel I tow using a Prodigy3 brake controler. It does a decent job, when I keep the brakes adjusted, but not great. Sometimes I feel as if the brakes are not getting sufficent Amps on hard braking. Is there another controler anyone has used that may work better the the Prodigy. My mechinac is not impressed with the prodigy.

jmtandem

western nevada

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Posted: 04/05/12 08:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob,I have the Prodigy and have found that it requires adjustments for conditions. It is not a set it once and forget it controller. Having understood that, it works fine for my 31 foot TT application.

You might also make absolutely sure the brakes on your fifth are adjusted correctly and getting the amps needed at each wheel.

* This post was edited 04/05/12 08:43am by jmtandem *


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tvman44

Southwest Louisiana

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Posted: 04/05/12 10:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most trailers have very poor wiring from the factory, if unhappy with the braking the first thing I would do is rewire the trailer brakes.


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halibutman214

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Posted: 04/05/12 03:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tvman44 wrote:

Most trailers have very poor wiring from the factory, if unhappy with the braking the first thing I would do is rewire the trailer brakes.
With all due respect... you have to be kidding! I "don't think", I'm getting the correct amperage and I'm going to rewire the brakes!
As was already said you can't just set the prodigy and forget it. Have you adjusted it to the max? Will the manual override slide the tires? You have a bunch of trouble shooting to do before you even think about rewiring and if your "mechanic" didn't tell you all of this already I would be looking for a new one. As far as Prodigy it's one of the best controllers on the market.

* This post was edited 04/05/12 06:29pm by halibutman214 *


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craigwieck

michigan

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Posted: 04/08/12 07:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the same problem with my p3. I almost got into an accident on the way back from Florida in December. I checked them before I left for the day. When I got into Ohio I had some one pull out in front of me on the free way doing 25 mph. When I hit the brakes I had no help from the trailer. I tried the manual lever and there was nothing. I adjusted them up all the way to get home. Half hour from home I hit the brakes and the traile locked the brakes up. I just pulled the wheels off my trailer to pack the bearing and look at the brakes. The shoes, and magnets all looked good I adjusted them and when I took my trailer back to storage they still did I not work. The only other thing I can think of is the 7pin on the tv might have a loose connection. I was also taking to my parts guy at general trailer and he said to call the company and tell them what was going on. Said it has a life time warranty. Im going to look into it this week so if I find out anything I'll let you know. Not that it maters much but i am a ASE certified mechanic that did electrical at a ford dealer for 12 years so I know a thing or two about this stuff. That being said I will call the manufacture to find out if there's a pin point test I can do before I condem the controller. Wll give an update as soon as I do.


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Jayco25E

PA

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Posted: 04/05/12 12:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most folks on here would give up their fist born child before giving up their P3 or P2 brake controller. They are that good. Like others have mentioned I think there is something else wrong if your P3 is not working the way it should.


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bigjettech

Bartlett,Il

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Posted: 04/08/12 09:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The prodigy I had worked great on the 24' TT I owned. but ever since I got my 32' fifth wheel I've been less than impressed with it. It worked fine slowing down at higher speeds but at lower speeds such as the final 20-30' coming to a complete stop at a light or stop sign the brakes woud jerk excessivly. I've been all through the brakes and was confident it wasn't a brake issue. I just bought a MaxBrake controller and installed it. It's like night and day compared to the prodigy. The MaxBrake is smooth even braking all the way to a complete stop.


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craigwieck

michigan

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Posted: 04/09/12 06:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was looking at that controller. I am going to see what tecknosa says and if I'm not happy I'm going with the max controller.

wittmeba

Virginia

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Posted: 04/09/12 08:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As far as aftermarket controllers, about the only other brake controllers that I would think to be better is the MaxBrake or DirectLink.

DirectLink is new and there still seems questions on its operating principle.

MaxBrake works on the Master Brake Cylinder brake fluid pressure and a pressure transducer to produce 0-12VDC output. It has a very good reputation.

By your description it sounds like you support my concern with marginal brakes/axles on larger trailers. The test has been whether you can lock the wheels or not.

http://gotnarcosis.com/brucewittmeier/technical/BrakeControllerSelection.html


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BenK

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Posted: 04/09/12 10:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of things that can be done to super tune the system

My GMT400 K3500/7.4L/4.1 Suburban has it's P3 adjusted to initiate the trailer
brake controller to send power to the trailer brakes before the TV's MC ever
see's braking hydraulic PSI

I can stop the whole setup via the TV brake pedal without EVER setting the TV's
brakes. Do this in stop-n-go traffic. This also keeps the trailer brakes heated
and ready for an E stop. All this without ever touching the manual lever on my P3

Then the very, very poor quality (workmanship, materials, sizing, etc) of 'most'
trailer braking system harness. Ditto the trailer brakes, they almost always need
some level of super tuning

Finally, the shoes are never the best friction materials. Gave up on that after
my local brake shop that reshod (sp?) new friction material to my choices retired. Just
look for the best and most HD shoes you can find. The choices here locally are
not good


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

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