In my small engines I use ethanol-free gasoline. Regretfully it is only available as 91 octane. But Sta-Bil is always put into one of my 5 gallon containers before the gasoline. Use Sta-Bil in the boat (4-cycle 50hp Yamaha).
SRT
2000 32' HR Vacationer with Banks
1998 Subaru Outback Ltd. 5 spd
Brake Buddy & Blue Ox Aventa II tow bar
FMCA #266040 HRRVC #84109
Again I point out the Mercury Motors document suggested that higher exhaust (And one thus assumes internal) temps due to the fuel burning leaner were to blame for the damage.
On your Model T, or 58,Buick, this is easily fixed.
On your 2008 Durango, it should be automatically fixed.
In fact it can be fixed on your lawn mower in all likely hood.
But you have to know how to fix it.. I do. but alas it requires skills, and though I can tell you the method, I can't give you the skill.
In days of old, when I was bold among other things I worked on engines of the "Lawn mower/Chain saw and Automotive" class. One of the jobs was adjusting air/fuel mix. That is what you have to do, adjust the air/fuel mix.
There are a few other things you may need to do too (like replace fule lines and hoses) but that is a different issue.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
wa8yxm wrote: Again I point out the Mercury Motors document suggested that higher exhaust (And one thus assumes internal) temps due to the fuel burning leaner were to blame for the damage.
On your Model T, or 58,Buick, this is easily fixed.
On your 2008 Durango, it should be automatically fixed.
In fact it can be fixed on your lawn mower in all likely hood.
But you have to know how to fix it.. I do. but alas it requires skills, and though I can tell you the method, I can't give you the skill.
In days of old, when I was bold among other things I worked on engines of the "Lawn mower/Chain saw and Automotive" class. One of the jobs was adjusting air/fuel mix. That is what you have to do, adjust the air/fuel mix.
There are a few other things you may need to do too (like replace fule lines and hoses) but that is a different issue.
I have done NONE of that with any of my small engines. I poured in the E10 and ran them. The only problem I had was needing to clean out the carb on an old leaf blower. Didn't adjust anything, just cleaned out the glop and reassembled it. Didn't use special "ethanol compatible" oil (just regular Wal-Mart TCW3), didn't replace fuel lines...just ran them. My 30-year-old riding mower, my 40-year-old generator, and several 15 to 25 year old 2-strokes are all doing fine.
John and Elizabeth (Liz), with 3 nutty cats
My beloved St. Bernard, Marm, lost him 1/2/12
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion
wa8yxm wrote: Again I point out the Mercury Motors document suggested that higher exhaust (And one thus assumes internal) temps due to the fuel burning leaner were to blame for the damage.
On your Model T, or 58,Buick, this is easily fixed.
On your 2008 Durango, it should be automatically fixed.
In fact it can be fixed on your lawn mower in all likely hood.
But you have to know how to fix it.. I do. but alas it requires skills, and though I can tell you the method, I can't give you the skill.
In days of old, when I was bold among other things I worked on engines of the "Lawn mower/Chain saw and Automotive" class. One of the jobs was adjusting air/fuel mix. That is what you have to do, adjust the air/fuel mix.
There are a few other things you may need to do too (like replace fule lines and hoses) but that is a different issue.
I have done NONE of that with any of my small engines. I poured in the E10 and ran them. The only problem I had was needing to clean out the carb on an old leaf blower. Didn't adjust anything, just cleaned out the glop and reassembled it. Didn't use special "ethanol compatible" oil (just regular Wal-Mart TCW3), didn't replace fuel lines...just ran them. My 30-year-old riding mower, my 40-year-old generator, and several 15 to 25 year old 2-strokes are all doing fine.
Well, As I said, I read the Mercury "Lab report" as it were, And I have heard from several who were not as lucky as you folks.
The bottom line is I believe what the scientists at Mercury Motors said. FOR non-computerized engines.
For computerized engines, I remain,,, Neutral I would like to think the computer can compensate for the leaner fuel, but I also do not know.
NOTE: that Mercury ran the things for 300 hours and tore them down (Save for the one that did not make it) And they very likely ran the things for 300 hours.. Straight. You don't run your lawn mower or leaf blower that way, Likely not for more than an hour at a time.. I do not know if this makes a difference or not.
Also depending on the age of the device.. The manufacturer may have adjusted it for E-10. (or not). again I do not know. I have no way of knowning in fact.
As for special oils for E-10 use.. That's a new one on me.
I personaly know of one person that had problems similiar to traxtermax and it was directly related to ethanol and not treating his fuel system prior to short term storage, you can do a search on just about any boating/fishing form and find similiar issues as well. I understand that alot of people will never experience problems but at the same time alot of people will. I also understand that E10 is almost unavoidable for most of us and although E15, at this time anyway, (I am sure it will be the new E10 eventually) will be clearly marked so why not avoid it as a safety measure and make sure that you are using some forum of fuel treatment as a cheap aspirin to prevent any possible headaches down the road.
dreeder wrote: I personaly know of one person that had problems similiar to traxtermax and it was directly related to ethanol and not treating his fuel system prior to short term storage...
Absolutely. I never figured I'd be gone for 6+ months. We responded to an out of state emergency phone call and barely had time to pack.
Normally, I use Stabil when winterizing (or summerizing the snow blower) and never had a problem. I'm going to try Seafoam this year because the claims seem to be better--we'll see.
wa8yxm wrote: Again I point out the Mercury Motors document suggested that higher exhaust (And one thus assumes internal) temps due to the fuel burning leaner were to blame for the damage.
On your Model T, or 58,Buick, this is easily fixed.
On your 2008 Durango, it should be automatically fixed.
In fact it can be fixed on your lawn mower in all likely hood.
But you have to know how to fix it.. I do. but alas it requires skills, and though I can tell you the method, I can't give you the skill.
In days of old, when I was bold among other things I worked on engines of the "Lawn mower/Chain saw and Automotive" class. One of the jobs was adjusting air/fuel mix. That is what you have to do, adjust the air/fuel mix.
There are a few other things you may need to do too (like replace fule lines and hoses) but that is a different issue.
Actually, on your Model T, there is nothing to fix! Henry Ford, believing that "Alcohol is the fuel of the future!" built the Model T vehicles to run on alcohol! In fact, until a guy named Thomas Midgely, working for Detroit Engineering Laboratory Company (DELCO) invented Tetra-Ethyl Lead, alcohol was the primary anti-knock ingredient in motor fuel!
Interestingly, Midgely agreed with Ford; "Alcohol is the fuel of the future!" until lead made him rich. He even testified before Congress that "Tetra-Ethyl lead in fuel is perfectly safe", while suffering from lead poisoning!
Google it. It is an interesting read!
What is that saying..."What was old is new again!"
Something like that...
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
Other toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy: 1977 Dodge W100 CC SWB, 3/4 ton axles & springs
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
wa8yxm wrote: Well, As I said, I read the Mercury "Lab report" as it were, And I have heard from several who were not as lucky as you folks.
The bottom line is I believe what the scientists at Mercury Motors said. FOR non-computerized engines.
For computerized engines, I remain,,, Neutral I would like to think the computer can compensate for the leaner fuel, but I also do not know.
NOTE: that Mercury ran the things for 300 hours and tore them down (Save for the one that did not make it) And they very likely ran the things for 300 hours.. Straight. You don't run your lawn mower or leaf blower that way, Likely not for more than an hour at a time.. I do not know if this makes a difference or not.
Also depending on the age of the device.. The manufacturer may have adjusted it for E-10. (or not). again I do not know. I have no way of knowning in fact.
As for special oils for E-10 use.. That's a new one on me.
My generator has run for 19 days straight...other than a half-hour shutdown to check oil & add fuel every day, it ran constantly. Never missed a beat.
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