korbe

Northern California

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If backing the 5er, I put it in drive with my foot on the brake. That will move it forward just enough. If pulling forward, when stopped, I put it in reverse with my foot on the brake. I always lift the 5er to about a quarter inch off the hitch plate before pulling the release lever.
2004 F250 SD PSD
2004 Crossroads Cruiser CF25RS
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dqdick

Council Grove, KS

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Joined: 11/17/2011

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If you don't have the landing gear down and the wheels chocked you can have a dented bed and 5rv damage. I watched a man unlock his hitch that way from across a campground and couldn't get there before the 5er rolled backwards on a slight incline and the rig then came down on the trucks bed rails.
Dick and Joyce
2010 Montana 3665RE
Dodge 2500HD Maxi Cab Laramie Edition
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bpounds

Whittier CA

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therink wrote: Once the landing gear is down and wheels chocked, if needed I put truck in reverse and back truck a tiny bit to release tension on hitch jaws. Also I make sure there is visible separation of the plate and kingpin plate
Steve
^^^
This is what I do. Always lift the pinbox slightly off the plate. That usually does it, but sometimes I still need to bump the truck fore or back. Trailer is already chocked of course.
Personally, I wouldn't be comfortable exiting my truck with it in neutral, chocked or not.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver
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DodgeVoltage

Nanjemoy, MD

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If you use a nylon lube disk, you may not be able to get a gap between the plate and the pin box. I can't. I will lift the back of my truck up before I know it when setting the jacks down.
I would never pull the pin before the jacks are down. Good way to have a runaway trailer falling on your truck bed rails.
The nice thing about the B&W Companion I have is that it will always unlock. The lever swings and opens the back of the jaws.
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CactusJohn

Scottsdale, AZ

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I had the same problem the first few times I used my Reese 16K. Sometimes it would open with almost no effort, other times it wouldn't.
I called Reese and was told that the jaws are designed to stay shut if there is any forward pressure on them. I was told to chock the 5er tires, lower the landing gear until it’s just above the ground, put the truck in reverse, lightly touch the gas, and then put on the brake.
This takes the forward pressure off and allows the jaws to open easily every time. I've never had another problem since that conversation.
BTW, Reese also said that taking weight off the hitch by lowering the landing gear has nothing to do with opening the jaws--it’s all about relieving the forward pressure.
2007 Ameri-Camp (RIP) Summit Ridge SF27RK 5er
2012 F250 Lariat SuperCab, 6.7L PSD
Reese 16K Kwik-Slide with BedSaver
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snowshe

alberta

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Dqdick has it right. There 2 kinds of 5th wheel people -- those that HAVE dropped the trailer and those WILL drop their trailer on the truck.
First block the wheels on the trailer
Second lower the landing gear to take MOST (not all) the weight off the hitch.
Third Release the hitch pin lever
Fourth Slowly move the truck forward. If the jaws do not release then they are binding because of pressure on them. Back up 1-2 INCHES and then try to release the hitch pin lever. Then you probably be able to drive slowly out from under the trailer.
Hope you all have a safe unhitching
Bob and Marlene
2008 COLORADO 28RK 5er
2006 GMC 2500HD Crew 4X4 SRW Duramax / Alison 6spd
Reese round tube slider with 15000lb 4way tilt
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Ridawing

Suisun City, Ca.

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This usually happens when you back up and put pressure on the pin and keeping the pressure on it when you put the truck in park. After backing, I pull forward just a little bit to release the pressure on the pin or just the opposite if I had been pulling fowarded when done. I than lower the legs and raise the 5er up just a little to clear and than pull the lever back. If it doesn't work than I pull fowarded or backward just a little while locking the trailer brakes with the controller in the cab of the truck. That always works and if it doesn't as it did on one occassion with my old hitch, I sprayed the heck out of it with some WD40.
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Dave H M

IL

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therink wrote: Once the landing gear is down and wheels chocked, if needed I put truck in reverse and back truck a tiny bit to release tension on hitch jaws. Also I make sure there is visible separation of the plate and kingpin plate
Steve
What works for me also.
However while I have the truck in reverse I set the parking brake and then put it in park. That will keep the truck from rocking back forward after being put in park.
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B.O. Plenty

Minnesota

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Ridawing wrote: This usually happens when you back up and put pressure on the pin and keeping the pressure on it when you put the truck in park. After backing, I pull forward just a little bit to release the pressure on the pin or just the opposite if I had been pulling fowarded when done. I than lower the legs and raise the 5er up just a little to clear and than pull the lever back. If it doesn't work than I pull fowarded or backward just a little while locking the trailer brakes with the controller in the cab of the truck. That always works and if it doesn't as it did on one occassion with my old hitch, I sprayed the heck out of it with some WD40.
Since the latching mechanism is always at the rear of the hitch, you don't want to pull ahead to take the pressure off the latch only move backwards. I always raise my jacks to take part of the load off, if I still can't pull the release lever I move back to remove the pressure on my locking mechanism. Works every time. Watch a semi semi driver uncouple sometime they never pull forward to enable the the fifth wheel to unlatch, only back.
B.O.
2011 Big Country 3250TS...2010 Ram CC Laramie 4wd Cummins
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kennethwooster

Perryton Tx USA

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Went to Pullright SG and got rid of most of the unhitch and hitch up problems. Otherwise just had to play with the others until it would finally release.
kenneth wooster- retired farmer. Biblical History Teacher in public HS, and substitute teacher.
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