I open the door and put a little bubble level on the floor. I level left to right before dropping the trailer, and outting the family in it. I carry a small selection of 2x8 blocks for leveling. Sometimes I put one block under one tire, this weekend I had 4/6's under 2 axles at the FIL's house. After dropping the trailer I level front to rear, then the X-chocks go on.
I use a 2ft level to check for plumb on the outside wall (between the axles)What I have found,is that if that point is plumb,then the trailer is really close to level side to side.Depending on how it is off plumb,I have,over time,figured how many "Lego"blocks I need on
which side,to get thing level,or close enough to level. Close enough is when it is not too noticeable when walking around inside.
After the side to side routine,it's pretty simple to run the front jacks up or down to get the trailer level front to rear.( again,I have found that if the basement floor is level,front to rear,it's time for a "cool one".
'04 33.5 CKQG Hitchhiker Discover America
04.5 Dodge 3500 CTD SRW
Pac Brake,Max Brake
Fulltimers since '06
These are what we use, level your trailer with a torpedo or masons level when you have it where your comfortable apply these: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/rv-levels-set-of-2/47550 where your front jack controls are one on the front and one on the side.
I spot the trailer where needed for utilities and slides. Then check the level on front for side to side. After a few times you'll know how many boards or blocks you'll need to level. Drop the board along the tires, pull up till I'm slightly past the front edge DW moves them over inline with the tires and I backup on them. Recheck level, if good and it usually is, next check how much front needs then drop the front stabilizers.
9-11 WE WILL NEVER FORGET!
04 HitchHiker DA LS 33.5 RLTG
09 F350 CC DRW 4X4
John
“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” Lao Tzu
I have a small rv bubble where I can see it in rear view mirror, BUT it's too small for me to see well. I wish I had a bigger one (maybe this summer). I check it as I back (or pull) into my spot, and if it's obviously low on one side, I put 2x6s down to back onto.
I back in or pull in unhook from TV and push the autolevel button, grab a cold one and let it do it's thing. Dont get mad I used to do all by hand also.
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW/2012 Heartland Landmark San Antonio.
After figuring out an accweptable distance in relation to the utilities, wife uses a 2' level at door (which is close to the axles). If needed we use the lego blocks - I pull fwd, she lays them out, I back up and stop when she tells me its OK.
It's not that hard.
2008 GMC Sierra C/C 2500HD D/A - w/Titan 52Gal tank
Ride Rite Airbags, Trail Air Pin Box, Garmin Nuvi 1450LMT,
Blue Ox Bed Saver, TST Tire Monitor, Yamaha EF2000is,
2009 Cedar Creek Silverback, GII, 32 WRL w/ XPS RIBS
HTT to be? wrote: R to L is the first thing to be corrected. While we are still hooked up we check the level to see if we need to lay a block or two down to have her sitting level. So we back her in to the exact spot we want the trailer, then ck for r/l level, if needed, pull forward just enough to lay blocks needed, then back her up and ck she is right. Then we put in chocks and unhook
X2 on it being the first thing to be corrected. I have a small level attached to the back of the pin box.
HTT to be? wrote: R to L is the first thing to be corrected. While we are still hooked up we check the level to see if we need to lay a block or two down to have her sitting level. So we back her in to the exact spot we want the trailer, then ck for r/l level, if needed, pull forward just enough to lay blocks needed, then back her up and ck she is right. Then we put in chocks and unhook
This.
2006 Toyota Sienna
Single empty-nester in Middle TN
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