OK, I know there are a bunch of weight related questions on this forum, but I have a question to anyone out there with a similar situation. I bought a 2004 AF last november without much regard to the weight of it because I own a 1 ton dodge ram. i figured it could handle any shorted camper out there. Well, I actually weighed my camper today with it fully loaded with water, minus food and clothes. My truck weighs roughly 7600-7700lbs with upgrades(larger tires, super hitch, airbags, leveling kit, sway bar, etc..). With the camper on fully loaded my truck weighs 11,780lbs. My GVWR is 10100lbs. Obviously over that. But what concerns me is the rear axle rating of 6200lbs and my rear axle weight with fully loaded camper is 7300lbs. over by 1100lbs. Not Good! I'm even over on my tire rating by 900lbs..
I guess my question is, If this camper is made for a shortbed truck why is it so heavy? Even if I had a dually, that only adds 300lbs to my GVWR. How are you supposed to keep this under the vehicle ratings? Is it even possible? These weights are with an empty truck, not even with my family in it. And what about when I hitch up the boat? There is a few more lbs on the tongue weight.
I just added the super hitch and hellwig sway bar and the truck handled on its maiden voyage like a champ!
Any insights, concerns, comments, would be appreciated! Does anyone have a similar setup with the same weight issues?
Thanks,
Jeff
2004 Arctic Fox 860 w/ slideout. On 2008 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7L SRW, 305/65/R17 BFG A/T, Pac Brake Air Bags, Torklift tie downs & fastguns, Torklift Super Hitch, and Hellwig sway bar.
If you had a 3500DRW Dodge, in any cab size other than MegaCab, your GVWR would be 12K+ and RGAWR would be 9K+ and you would be under both ratings.
I agree, a 4000 lb camper should not be made in a short bed version, since there are no short bed trucks that can haul it's weight without exceeding at least the GVWR.
You need to address the tire issue first. If you can't upgrade your 16 inch tires go 19.5. I have done this on a 96 2500. You will have no worries with those. The rear axle is more of a wear issue than saftey, at first. Of course as it wears it will become a saftey issue. Try to pack the camper with less stuff, travel with empty tanks, shift weight to the front..etc..My first thought is get a 3500 but that might not be possible. Good luck with whatever you do.
I noticed your BFG are only rated 3197lbs each. I have Nitto Dura Grapplers rated for 3517lbs. This gives me about 500lbs play if Im fully loaded with water.
Pete
2012 RAM 3500 Mega DRW. Stable Loads and Torklift tiedowns.
2006 Lance 881 Max.
I carry one of those with my F-150 (with camper package) and air bags. The air bags are just to level it out when towing my 25' enclosed race car trailer. The eco boost hauls it all "like its not even there".
Seriously though, I would be concerned with having those tires overloaded! 19.5 wheels and tires would be a help if you really love that truck. But as others have said, if your gonna tow anything you really need a dually. Even then things will be pretty marginal, but much safer.
Quote: "I guess my question is, If this camper is made for a shortbed truck why is it so heavy?"
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You answered your own question. The short-bed truck in any model carries the most weight. That model of truck weighs the least. Trucks with larger passenger compartments and longer beds weigh much more. Did you count all your extra passenger's weights? You may be even more overweight.
The items you added will help the ride of your camper, but they do not change the GRWR of the manufacturer's of the truck, axels, tires. Your modifications added more weight to your truck actually lowering your possible load.
It would have helped to weigh your truck first before having too large an expectation on what size camper you could actually handle. You jumped the gun like 95% of purchasers, and joined the "overweight club".
* This post was
edited 04/10/12 07:28am by MNtundraRet *
Mark & Jan "Old age & treachery win over youth & enthusiasm"
2003 Fleetwood Jamboree 29
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