batesrt wrote: Any idea how much grease I should go through to re-pack a set of 4 wheels?
Started going through the process and have two wheels back on, though seems like I'm pumping a TON of grease into the zerks. Just guestimating it looks like I'll go through an entire tube of grease (one of the large tubes, that goes into the large grease guns)
Does that seem right? Figured I'd see grease pushing out the front after only a few pumps. Concerned it might be coming out the back where I can't see or something
That seems like too much grease. It should only take maybe one pump per hub. The excess grease likely is coming out the back. Even with one pump, some often comes out.
I'm not sure exactly how your zerk-greaseable assembly is made, but other spindle/hub assemblies can hydraulically pop the entire bearing seal out of the back of the hub and leak gobs of grease. Better look. If the excess grease has just leaked by the seal lips, then wipe it off. If the seal popped out, you may have to remove the entire hub/wheel and tap it back in it's groove. You might try carefully prying the popped seal back in with a tire iron while the wheel is still on the trailer, but make sure it goes in straight. It can be driven short distances to a repair location with the seal popped if neccessary.
Rather than be totally dismayed, wheel removal, with a seal already loose, would be a great opportunity to check that the bearing rollers are still shiny and round. They have to be cleaned with solvent to inspect them. If they are flattened or pitted/rusty, the whole bearing assembly is shot. If the race (ringed bearing run surface) is pitted or rusty the whole bearing assembly is shot.
Repair: If new bearings are neccessary.
Clean old grease out of the hub thoroughly with a round parts brush and solvent. Replace all the tapered bearings (front & back), races and seals as a family. The bearings fall out the back when the wheel is opened and the rear seal (only seal) is pried out and removed. But the races have to be tapped out of the hub from their backside with a drift pin punch or sacrificial old screwdriver.
Then new races have to be carefully tapped back in using a plastic-faced hammer or a protective wood board shield and ordinary steel hammer. Tediously fill the new bearings by scooping it with new grease cupped in the palm of your hand. Do not rely on pumping grease in through the zerk after the wheel is already on as dry air gaps will be left. You can buy grease in little "margerine-sized" tubs to do this, or pump it out of your gun into your hand. When the bearings are loosely in place in the hub, tap a new seal back in and slide the wheel back on the spindle. Then the re-installed bearings have to be tightened just to snugness (no play) with the big castellated wheel nut, washer and a new, or very good, cotter key used to insure the nut will not back off and loosen.
Let us know how this goes.
Wes
...
Days spent camping are not subtracted from one's total.
- 2000 Excursion V-10 - 2004 Cougar Keystone M-294 RLS, 6140# tare
- Hensley Arrow - Champion 4000w/3500w gen
- Linda, Wes and Quincy the Standard Brown Poodle
...
Whenever I buy a used TT, the first thing I do is repack the bearings and check all brake components. Very cheap insurance. Just bought an '85 Wilderness, the bearings still had lots of (very old) grease and were in perfect shape. Brake shoes were good but magnet swing arms rusted shut. Replaced all brake wires and got rid of all scotch locks.
donn0128 wrote: With proper maintenance there is no reason a bearing cant go a million miles.
Thanks good to know! Do they actually need to be pulled out, cleaned, and re-packed? (long process)
Or can you just use the grease zerk to insert grease and wipe off the old grease? (5 minute process)
IF you have the E-Z-Lube axles, AND you follow the instructions (as shown on the manufacturer's website) exactly so you don't blow the seals, yes, you can do that.
However, the hubs should still be pulled occasionally to inspect the brakes. When the hubs are pulled, the bearings should be cleaned, inspected, and repacked, and the seals should be thrown away and new ones installed.
No, you don't HAVE to do all that, but you SHOULD.
I agree. My 1981 TT that I got rid of in 2007 had over 100K miles on the original bearings and hubs.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
batesrt wrote: Any idea how much grease I should go through to re-pack a set of 4 wheels?
Started going through the process and have two wheels back on, though seems like I'm pumping a TON of grease into the zerks. Just guestimating it looks like I'll go through an entire tube of grease (one of the large tubes, that goes into the large grease guns)
Does that seem right? Figured I'd see grease pushing out the front after only a few pumps. Concerned it might be coming out the back where I can't see or something
Below is one of my prior posts that I documented with pictures when I did my first brake/bearing repack on my new 2007 HR:
Here is how much grease was on the inner bearing and grease seal and notice even the cavity in the grease seal wasn't full.
I've read several comments on this one or two pumps is all you need so I took and cleaned both the bearing and grease seal and reinstalled them dry and then applied two good pumps to the grease fitting on the end of the axle and below is how much grease got applied and I did not rotate the wheel either during or after pumping the new grease in.
Also be aware that until you fill the cavity in the hub/axle between the inner and outer bearings no grease will be applied to the outer bearing until you pump enough grease in to fill that cavity. I gave up after about 20 pumps and took the outer bearing out and squirted grease directly into the cavity and this was after I had filled the new grease seal up with grease in it's cavity also.
IMHO on these type systems, there is absolutely no way to use the "number of pumps" to lubricate both bearings. You have to keep pumping while rotating the tire until the cavity if full and you see grease being expelled from around the outer bearing and axle spindle nut.
In these type axles, the concept is good and does work after doing two wheels I'm somewhat concerned about just the amount of grease it takes to get it where it's working as designed. I'm estimating almost 1/3 or more of a standard tube of grease to fill things up on just one wheel. At $6/tube that might approach $9 in grease. After doing one side of my trailer recently I dumped filling up the hubs on the other side and just did a manual repack and after installing did about 5 or 6 pumps after reassembly and plan to do the following:
1. Doing a complete tear down for brake inspection, new grease seals that are required if the hub is removed every 5 years or 15K miles whichever comes first. I'm not recommending this, but having maintained and repacked TT wheels for over 25 years, IMHO this yearly requirement is overkill especially if you use the newer greases that also are more impervious to attracting moisture.
2. On the side of the trailer where I have filled the hub, I will follow the instructions once a year. On the side where I didn't fill the hub every two years I will w/o removing the hub remove the outer bearing, and remove what grease from the hub I can easily get to. I will manually repack that bearing, reinstall and once I have the hub adjusted will pump in 5 or 6 pumps to relubricate the inner bearing. This will save me the cost of 4 new grease fittings (~$15 at current prices) and around $7 or so in un-needed grease sitting in that inner cavity.
Remember, I'm not recommending this type of maintenance schedule, but IMHO it seems a more reasonable approach and a good balance between using some of these type axle features and still lubricating both bearings every year or so and at least inspecting the outer bearing when lubing the wheel. I'm also not looking forward during my next complete tear down in digging all that grease out of the hub on the side where I filled the hub.
FWIW, the following are the Dexter directions from their service manual for the E-Z Lube axles:
Quote: 1. Remove the rubber plug from the end of the grease cap.
2. Place a standard grease gun onto the grease fitting located in the end of the spindle. Make sure the grease gun nozzle is fully engaged on the fitting.
3. Pump grease into the fitting the old displaced grease will begin to flow back out the cap around the grease gun nozzle.
4. When the new clean grease is observed, remove the grease gun, wipe of any excess, and replace the rubber plug in the cap.
5. Rotate hub or drum while adding grease
It's also important to use a grease that meets your axle manufacturer's recommendation and what I used was the Valvoline Dura Blend synthetic grease that is moly fortified when I did mine and based on the skimpy amount of grease from the factory am glad I did mine early on.
batesrt wrote: Any idea how much grease I should go through to re-pack a set of 4 wheels?
Started going through the process and have two wheels back on, though seems like I'm pumping a TON of grease into the zerks. Just guestimating it looks like I'll go through an entire tube of grease (one of the large tubes, that goes into the large grease guns)
Does that seem right? Figured I'd see grease pushing out the front after only a few pumps. Concerned it might be coming out the back where I can't see or something
Below is one of my prior posts that I documented with pictures when I did my first brake/bearing repack on my new 2007 HR:
Here is how much grease was on the inner bearing and grease seal and notice even the cavity in the grease seal wasn't full.
I've read several comments on this one or two pumps is all you need so I took and cleaned both the bearing and grease seal and reinstalled them dry and then applied two good pumps to the grease fitting on the end of the axle and below is how much grease got applied and I did not rotate the wheel either during or after pumping the new grease in.
Also be aware that until you fill the cavity in the hub/axle between the inner and outer bearings no grease will be applied to the outer bearing until you pump enough grease in to fill that cavity. I gave up after about 20 pumps and took the outer bearing out and squirted grease directly into the cavity and this was after I had filled the new grease seal up with grease in it's cavity also.
IMHO on these type systems, there is absolutely no way to use the "number of pumps" to lubricate both bearings. You have to keep pumping while rotating the tire until the cavity if full and you see grease being expelled from around the outer bearing and axle spindle nut.
In these type axles, the concept is good and does work after doing two wheels I'm somewhat concerned about just the amount of grease it takes to get it where it's working as designed. I'm estimating almost 1/3 or more of a standard tube of grease to fill things up on just one wheel. At $6/tube that might approach $9 in grease. After doing one side of my trailer recently I dumped filling up the hubs on the other side and just did a manual repack and after installing did about 5 or 6 pumps after reassembly and plan to do the following:
1. Doing a complete tear down for brake inspection, new grease seals that are required if the hub is removed every 5 years or 15K miles whichever comes first. I'm not recommending this, but having maintained and repacked TT wheels for over 25 years, IMHO this yearly requirement is overkill especially if you use the newer greases that also are more impervious to attracting moisture.
2. On the side of the trailer where I have filled the hub, I will follow the instructions once a year. On the side where I didn't fill the hub every two years I will w/o removing the hub remove the outer bearing, and remove what grease from the hub I can easily get to. I will manually repack that bearing, reinstall and once I have the hub adjusted will pump in 5 or 6 pumps to relubricate the inner bearing. This will save me the cost of 4 new grease fittings (~$15 at current prices) and around $7 or so in un-needed grease sitting in that inner cavity.
Remember, I'm not recommending this type of maintenance schedule, but IMHO it seems a more reasonable approach and a good balance between using some of these type axle features and still lubricating both bearings every year or so and at least inspecting the outer bearing when lubing the wheel. I'm also not looking forward during my next complete tear down in digging all that grease out of the hub on the side where I filled the hub.
FWIW, the following are the Dexter directions from their service manual for the E-Z Lube axles:
Quote: 1. Remove the rubber plug from the end of the grease cap.
2. Place a standard grease gun onto the grease fitting located in the end of the spindle. Make sure the grease gun nozzle is fully engaged on the fitting.
3. Pump grease into the fitting the old displaced grease will begin to flow back out the cap around the grease gun nozzle.
4. When the new clean grease is observed, remove the grease gun, wipe of any excess, and replace the rubber plug in the cap.
5. Rotate hub or drum while adding grease
It's also important to use a grease that meets your axle manufacturer's recommendation and what I used was the Valvoline Dura Blend synthetic grease that is moly fortified when I did mine and based on the skimpy amount of grease from the factory am glad I did mine early on.
What he said. You will put a lot of grease in a hub that wasn't full to begin with before you see any out the front. At least a tube per wheel isn't out of the ordinary. I've gone to packing individually and checking things out while it's apart. Makes more sense.
"It`s not important that you know all the answers, it`s only important to know where to get all the answers" Arone Kleamyck
"...An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." Col. Jeff Cooper
Sunset Creek 298 BH
Quote: What he said. You will put a lot of grease in a hub that wasn't full to begin with before you see any out the front. At least a tube per wheel isn't out of the ordinary. I've gone to packing individually and checking things out while it's apart. Makes more sense.
Really? Seems odd......I had pulled the hubs all apart, cleaned everything, packed the bearings by hand, and then put it all back together. So wasn't sure how much grease should be added (pumped in) after that point.
I didn't really keep track of how much old grease was in there when taking them apart....but definitely didn't seem like a whole tube (maybe a quarter tube)
Keeping in mind I'm talking about the big fat grease tubes (bigger than a silver doller), not the smaller ones that are about as big around as a quarter.
I don't mind paying for grease, I just wanted to make sure I'm not doing something wrong
As seen in the videos, one doesn't need "too much" grease. But, enough grease to keep it well lubricated.
Note: In one of the above videos, I see the guy using a steel hammer to pound the wheel bearing rear seal into place. Steel on steel pounding is a bad idea. For your DIY install, simply put a flat wood board over the bearing seal. Then, use steel hammer to pound the flat board - which softly presses the bearing seal into place. And, reduces the risk of seal damage as well.
Also… I use Marine (boat) Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease. The boat grease take water and natural moisture exposure better then dry land wheel bearing grease.
Padlin wrote: Why do vehicle bearings never need to be repacked, or close to it, and trailers need it every year, are they very different?
They are not; at least IMHO.
I have a trailer with over 100K on the bearings and I have never cleaned and repacked them. Twice I have inspected them and put a little more grease in them. Twice I have put new brake hardware on it. I think I have replaced the brake lineing once.
For the people that clean and repack every year; thank you, you keep the economy going. It's bad right now and I'm glad you are doing your part to help out.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~
"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"
What brand / product model of trailer axle under your trailer? Please, let us know...
If you don't already know, Dexter company clearly states their axles must be inspected and grease re-packed every 12 months or 12,000 miles - which ever comes 1st. And, their brakes must be inspected yearly as well. While inspecting the brakes, simply re-pack its grease at same time - since the hubs are pulled off anyway. For written confirmation, surf Page 69 within http://united-trailers.com/Uploads/Manuals/Manual_6.pdf
Not too sure about you but I change Tow Vehicle engine oil, Tow Vehicle transmission oil, Tow Vehicle rear-end oils "based on their maintenance schedule". I'd be pretty stupid to NEVER change their oils - based on their maintenance schedule.
So please.... What company makes your trailer axles? I'd like to confirm the maintenance schedule for your brand of trailer axles. We'll gladly help you understand (without attitude) that trailer axle grease breaks down over times and with miles, and it too needs to be changed / re-packed as well... Just like your Tow Vehicle lubrication needs....
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At $6/tube that might approach $9 in grease. After doing one side of my trailer recently I dumped filling up the hubs on the other side and just did a manual repack and after installing did about 5 or 6 pumps after reassembly and plan to do the following:
