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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > water heater sacrificial anode

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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 04/17/12 06:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I sure wouldn't put a ton of heat on a glass lined tank.
Just use your impact wrench - I've done this myself a couple of times.


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RayChez

Barstow, Ca. USA

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Posted: 04/17/12 06:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with the impact wrench. I would not put heat on it. Mine was pretty tight, but with a little force and a good socket it will break lose.


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rhochnadel

Colorado

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Posted: 04/17/12 07:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it is an Atwood there should not be an anode rod, if it is Suburban you should be able to break it loose with a penetrating oil. Good luck!


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fordsooperdooty

Southern California

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Posted: 04/17/12 08:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

By all means use a bit of liquid wrench (etc) on it first.

BTW...Using a flamable substance near an open flame is a no-no!

Then when the water heater is still hot, spray a blast of computer keyboard duster/cleaner on the Suburban water heater anode rod nut. The tank will expand from the heat, and a blast of chilled freon from the can will contract the cold anode rod while you are cranking down on it with a socket or wrench. It works!


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jvander

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Posted: 04/18/12 07:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Liquid Wrench is useless. WD40 is really just a water displacer, not a creep-in oil or a lubricant at all. PB Blaster is pretty good, but the best I've found is Kroil. It makes PB Blaster seem like WD40.
You can only get it online.


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UltraKen

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Posted: 04/18/12 09:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Weldon wrote:

Just be sure you are turning the anode rod to the left to remove it...counter-clockwise.



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bsinmich

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Posted: 04/18/12 10:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rgatijnet1 wrote:

First make sure that you actually have one. Not all water heaters use the anode rod. My Atwood has an aluminum clad tank and it has a drain plug that is next to impossible to get out, BUT there is no anode rod to change.

On an Atwood you should have a plastic plug that would not seize to the tank.

I have found Kroil at farm supply stores and also at Menards.


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hhornig

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Posted: 04/19/12 01:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fordsooperdooty has the right idea. You want to heat the nut and cool the bolt at the same time. I would try dry ice on the anode rod if freon spray does not work. I am afraid an impact wrench might damage the metal to glass seal. Obviously, when you break it loose you will want to leave it in the tank until you cool the water.

FedAgent

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Posted: 04/26/12 07:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just an update. After several days of hitting it with penetrating oil, I got out the impact wrench and set the air pressure on low and gave it a try. Low and behold it came out. Glad I got it out, anode was 3/4 gone.

Thanks for all the tips,

Larry


Larry
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