Our coach just hit the 100,000 mark...Since my coach has been well taken care of (maintenance based on manufacturers recommendations). I have no concerns about the power train (engine, transmission, rear end). When the coach hit 100,000 miles I took it to the spartan factory where they perform a comprehensive 44 point inspection. Based on the inspection I had the tie rods and ride height valves replaced..In another 30,000 miles I will be looking at replacing ball joints. All other suspension components in good order. There is still 75% of the brake shoes
So if I were looking at a used coach of the same caliber as mine on a similar chassis I would be interested in how it was maintained. Plus how it lived.
Once I got past the chassis and power train... I would be focusing on;
Water tight integrity. Sign of water leaks, seal viability.. An Age issue
Latches locks and doors. Ease of operation... An indication of owner care and maintenance.
Rust and corrosion. If visible in easy visible areas expect it to be in critical areas not easily visible, or easily accessible.
Electrical...Generator, inverter, batteries....Function, performance and longevity.
Tires.... Condition , age
Acceptability of appliances, and electronics.
Both age and mileage can be an issue but with the proper care the effects of both can be a non issue.
Another consideration is the environment that the coach has lived and operated in; If parked or stored is an salt water area, or operated on road where snow or ice agents have been deployed.
How protected when parked.
How protected when stored.
Duration of inactivity. Inactivity will accelerate the issue of dry rot on rubber components.
There are tremendous financial benefit and opportunity for buying an older quality coach. The absence of due diligence is a guaranteed trip down the slippery slope of buyer remorse.
Buying a used coach requires luck or savvy. Without either is not a place I would want to be...
Savvy and due diligence pays the most rewards...
JohnnyT Moderator
2004 40DS02 Travel Supreme ISL 400
Jeep Grand Cherokee
M&G Brake & Break Away
Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow bar
We are on our second 'used' MH. Started with a 92 Airstream Land Yacht, gasser with 454 Chev. Bought at about 11 yrs old, but in good condition, both chassis and interior. Not perfect, but solid. Very happy with it and at time to upgrade, we did not even consider new.
Looked for 'used' DP. After looking for a while we found a Safari Serengeti, agin 11 yrs old, but pristine condition. Had it checked out at local CAT and Allison dealerships, and checked all house systems ourselves over quite a few days. After it all checked OK, purchased unit.
That was four years ago, and still completely satisfied with decision, and would do the same again.
Likewise; after 6 years we're still delighted with our now 17 year old, slideless coach. We plan a small renovation this year, then will be ready to role when we're both retired.
JohnnyT wrote: ...............
Buying a used coach requires luck or savvy. Without either is not a place I would want to be...
Savvy and due diligence pays the most rewards...
JohnnyT Moderator
thanks
I did read and and take into note ALL 57 pages of the "buying an RV" and getting lots of questions answered.
more good stuff above, truly appreciate it.
Let's see... 500,000 mile life span. That will take us 50 years, and with rising gas prices, will eventually cost us a million dollars to go that far.
Roof, floor, springs, brake pads, belts, batteries, hoses, relays, seals, weather stripping, A/C units, caulking, hinges, electric steps, switches, slides, the fake leather used in almost all coaches, wipers, radiators, tires, exhaust, LP tanks, fridges, tables, mattresses, blinds, drawer and 100's of other items wear out at the same rate in all MH's.
No thanks. I want a two year old MH with all the warranty work done. I will never travel 100K miles in my MH's lifetime. I want to live in my MH - not be thinking about how far it could go but never will.
----
Happy Ford F-53 Class A Owner (2008 Gulf Stream)
2010 Ford Fusion Toad (with 6 speed manual transmission - the only way to tow)
Brake Buddy Vantage, Blue Ox Aladdin Tow Bar,
TST RV 507 TPMS, Power Master Voltage Controller
I would vote for an older high end every time. Mileage is not really and issue if it was well maintained....the key is all in the maintenance and care.
Dick
2000 40" DP Beaver Patriot Thunder Cat C-12 425 HP, 1550 Tq
1997 Jeep GC Limited ---toad
2008 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited TRD (Retired)
2009 Cougar 268 RLS ~8700 lbs road wt (Retrired)
2006 Jeep Liberty Turbo Diesel.....TV in Training
I don't know what your budget is, but there is a very nice 2004 HR Endeavor 40PDQ setting on Randolph Blvd in San Antonio with an asking price of $68K.
Bob & Betsy(FishNFanatic) - USN Aviation Ret'd '78 & LEO Ret'd '03 & "Oath Keeper Forever" '05 HR Endeavor 40PRQ, 400 Cummins-Pulling our '11 Silverado LT, Ex Cab 6.2L NHT 4x4, w/2010 Rzr or 01 V Star in back. Where the wheels are stopped today
I love to compare the fit and finish, along with quality, of my 17 year old Foretravel, to the new other brands when we go to a RV show. She still draws a crowd at RV parks. Plus she is still getting between 10 and 11 mpg.
wny_pat wrote: I love to compare the fit and finish, along with quality, of my 17 year old Foretravel, to the new other brands when we go to a RV show. She still draws a crowd at RV parks. Plus she is still getting between 10 and 11 mpg.
+1 to that. And the price difference is monumental. For under $50,000 you can often buy a motor home that cost the original owner $300k yet is only barely broken in. With drive trains designed to go a million miles, "real" leather seats, and top-of-the-line accessories. Add in actual wood paneling (not veneer and not press-board).
Just do some homework and understand the possible pitfalls. It helps to be handy (as in all things).
Offline
