Gents,
We have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT. The water heater in this coach is the top of the line one with what's called "Motor aid". For those that don't know, that feature allows for engine coolant to circulate around a heat exchanger in the water heater to "preheat" the water in your water heater prior to arrival at a destination.
Well, under the coach, near the engine, there are two rubber coolant lines leading from the engine to the water heater to allow this feature to work. In the middle of those lines are two "elbows". Those elbows are, I presume, to be made of steel because they are just about rusted through, from the outside in. They are, around 5/8" in diameter, including the 90 degree bend, around 6-8 inches long. I've cruised around on some Itasca PDF files for plumbing, chassis and others and, some Winnebago sites to and I can't seem to pin down where to look for these two elbows.
I don't know if I should be in the Freightliner section or the Winnebago or Itasca. It's a Freightliner "Evolution XC" chassis. Now, I can either make these elbows out of copper and, they most likely will work just fine or, I can remain on the hunt and see what the possibility of Winne or Itasca has for supplying them. Anyone know what I'm talking about? If you know what catalog or, PDF file of parts I should be in, just send me a link if you would please. I'd surely appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Scott
Scott and Karla SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 White Honda CRV EX-L,4WD w/NAV Toad 2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
So, i've got a "top of the line" water heater in my 95 Brave. You should be able to use some heavy copper pipe. That's what sections of mine look like.
Described as: HOSE - 90 DEGREE - 5/8"ID X 4" X 36", don't get the 36", maybe formed onto the end of a hose?
I think it is a pre-formed rubber hose 4 inches on one side of the 90 and 36 inches on the other side.
Yes Sir,
I think that's exactly what it is. And I surely appreciate all your efforts in helping me with this issue. However, based on the way the hoses are routed, the confined space in that immediate area, the approach angle of how it enters the water heater, that particular part, if it is in fact built as described in that manual, will not work. I have two of those rusted 90 degree angles. So, at this time, I'm going to get close measurements, and I think some copper components will do just fine. I thought if Itasca had them as they are in my coach and, they were resonably priced, I'd order them up. But, based on what's in that manual, it's not what I need and/or won't do. Thanks again. Very much appreciated.
Scott
Well Gang,
All fixed! After looking at the linked manual, driving around to auto parts store and hardware stores, I came to the conclusion that I'll just make what I need. You'll see in the pics how bad the original elbow(s) looked so, it was only a matter of time before one started leaking while either parked at home, on the road or, in a camp site someplace in the middle of now where.
It's one of those things, "do it now" when and where I've got the tools and equipment to take on this little project or, put up with it when it gives way, out on the road someplace and I don't have the tools and equipment to do a good repair. So, take a look and see what you all think. I don't know how many of you have the "Motor aid" system incorporated with your water heater but, it's possible you've got the same elbows. Maybe, maybe not. Since our coach was subjected to back East environment for the first few years of it's life, things like what you're looking at are an inevitability.
The repair, simple. I had the 1/2" copper elbows but needed the straight piece of 1/2 copper pipe for the longer sections. I flared the ends where they enter the rubber hose so it would not slip out under pressure. A bit of soldering and, done! You can see in the pics that although it looks like I could have just used a straight piece of the copper pipe to link the two hoses, that wouldn't work because it would have put too much strain on the entry points where it enters the water heater.
Scott
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