Hi, I'm new here and to RVing. I'm planning to get a bumper pull travel trailer in the next month or so. The first planned trip (outside of a probably weekend break in trip) is to Florida at the end of June 1st of July. The next big trip would be to the Rockies in 2013.
We currently own a 2011 GMC Yukon Denali 2wd. From what I can tell, it has the 6.2L v8 and a 3.42 rear end. The other info I can gather is:
Combined Cargo/passenger weight not to exceed 1509
GVWR 7100
GAWR FRT 3250
GAWR RR 4200
Manual says:
Maximum Trailer Weight 8100lbs
GCWR 14,000 lbs
Tounge weight 600 with weight carrying hitch
tounge weight 1000lbx with weight distribution hitch
Question #1: How much weight can I pull with the above setup?
I plan to purchase some type of weight distribution/anti sway hitch. Primarily because I want the ride to be as pucker free as possible. I would get a pullrite for travel trailers because they seem like the best choice for the job. But, I tend to change vehicles every couple years (and this we are due this year) and so that seems illogical. Next best choice seems to be the Hensley Arrow. Of course neither of those options are very cheap.
Question #2: Is the Hensley Arrow really that much better than a hitch in the $300-700 range?
Question #3: How much would a good hitch increase my weight capacity in question #1?
I understand that maintaining proper tire inflation is important for max efficiency and safety. The tires are 275/55r20 and the label in the door says cold 32psi.
Question #4: What is the ideal Air Pressure for towing on this truck?
Thanks for taking the time to read and help out a rookie.
Jev
* This post was
edited 04/30/12 11:53pm by frankos72 *
1. Based on the payload of the vehicle less than 7k. Tongue weight would count toward that and should be around 12%. In fact once you put 700-1000 lbs of tongue weight on it you only have a few hundred pounds left for all passengers and gear.
2. With a properly matched set up it would be an expensive extra over a good integrated WD\Sway Control hitch. I use a Reese Dual Cam and think it is a marvelous invention.
3. Zero, it doesn't go away just spread across the vehicle better.
4. Follow the makers recommendations but the P rated tires are not going to give you a confident feeling.
Since you may switch vehicles this year I would recommend a larger tow vehicle with enhanced capability to make the towing experience more enjoyable and possibly allow greater options in trailers for your families comfort.
* This post was
edited 05/01/12 06:09am by fla-gypsy *
Good information and research so far. And good questions.
Payload will be one significant problem. How much will the family and cargo be in the truck when towing? Family of 6 with teenage boys is not the same as family of 4 with toddlers. That takes away from your 1509 pound payload.
Wheelbase of the regular Yukon (not XL) is another problem. 7000 pounds can be 35' long, which few feel comfortable towing with that kind of tow vehicle.
With some assumptions, I recommend staying as close to 5000 pounds dry as possible. That puts you at 6000-6500 pounds loaded. That means about 750-900 pounds on the hitch, taking away from your 1509 payload. 5000 dry with under 600 pound dry tongue weight would be good.
You have plenty of power and accelerating will be a dream. Use Tow/haul mode and lock out at least 6th gear.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009 2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS 2012 VW Passat TDI
Two different dealers today told me that GCWR of 14,000 isn't that important so long as I stay under the Manuals recommended max trailer weight of 8100 lbs. Would they truly recommend something that could put my life at risk or is this actually okay.
Both of them emphasized that the GCWR isn't that important of a number.
The GCWR is mostly a 'performance' rating and nothing that has any legal binding on anything... And even the 'tow rating' itself is simply derived by subtracting the GCWR from the vehicles "curb weight".
The real ratings you need to be concerned with is the vehicles GVWR and front/rear GAWR.
You say your Yukon has a GVWR of #7100 and a f/r GAWR of #3250/#4200
You should have a yellow sticker on the drivers side door jamb stating what your vehicles remaining PAYLOAD is. This is what is really the limiting factor in "how much weight can I tow"...
Every pound of weight you add to the vehicle takes away from that payload figure. Thus, reducing the amount of tongue weight you are going to be able to handle.
Best thing to do is load up the family and whatever stuff you think you'll be loading in the truck and find a scale someplace. Get the actual weight of your loaded vehicle and what's left is basically what the tongue weight of any trailer you pick can be.
Now, you get all the "dry weight" and "dry tongue weight" figures to weed thru..
In general, most will find they add about #1000 to #1500 to the dry weight and about #100 - #200 to the dry tongue weight when they load up a TT.
I won't comment on what dealers will or will not suggest for a customer in general, but from my experience, I had several recommended more trailer than I wanted in both weight and cost... I told them what I was looking for and they kept trying to steer me towards the bigger models.... Finally just said "either show me the trailers I'm interested in or I'm leaving.." Needless to say, I didn't buy from either of those dealers...
Good luck and have fun with the search!
Mitch
*Anything I post is for entertainment purposes only and what usually works for me.. Your Mileage May Vary..
frankos72 wrote: Two different dealers today told me that GCWR of 14,000 isn't that important so long as I stay under the Manuals recommended max trailer weight of 8100 lbs. Would they truly recommend something that could put my life at risk or is this actually okay.
Both of them emphasized that the GCWR isn't that important of a number.
IMO, they have that backwards.
GCWR is the most critical rating to NEVER-EVER exceed.
For example, one can easily tow a bit over the trailer weight ratings and tongue ratings and never come close to the GCWR. Which is not a great idea, but you're not in real bad shape either.
On the other hand, one can have a trailer that is within all the trailer ratings, but have a packed truck, with the family and the dog inside, and EXCEED the GCWR. Now your stressing the trucks chassis, driveline and braking systems beyond what it was deisgned for.
So, as I'm beginning to understand it the total weight on my trucks 4 wheels should not exceed 7100lbs. And the wieght on the rear axle should not exceed 4200 lbs INCLUDING the weight of the tounge.
I have a metal scrapyard 1 mile down the road. Can I load up my family and gear and have them weigh not just my GVW, but also get weighed with the rear axle on the scale and the front off? Will that actually work?
frankos72 wrote: So, as I'm beginning to understand it the total weight on my trucks 4 wheels should not exceed 7100lbs. And the wieght on the rear axle should not exceed 4200 lbs INCLUDING the weight of the tounge.
I have a metal scrapyard 1 mile down the road. Can I load up my family and gear and have them weigh not just my GVW, but also get weighed with the rear axle on the scale and the front off? Will that actually work?
Nope, cause the trailer will still be on the scale.
But you could check GVW by driving just the truck on the scale and leave the trailer wheels off the scale.
Then detach the trailer, subtract the difference from above and you have your actual tongue weight.
Getting a real number for the rear axle weight is a bit more challenging. Having the actual tongue weight is huge and from there you can do simple estimates/addition.
So, do you think your that close to the max per rough calculations that you need to be exact? Cause if your maxing out the axle, you're also maxing out the suspension and now WDH will be working double duty to hold up your rear from sagging! I'm not sure I would be comfortable with this...
It is difficult to tow an RV with a modern half ton truck, family on board, and stay under GVWR/rear axle ratings and over GCWR. For that reason, GCWR is somewhat meaningless because you can be at another vehicle limit/rating and 3000+ pounds under GCWR and tow rating.
You can weigh the truck @ the scrap yard with family on board. At 1509 pounds of OEM payload with a full tank of fuel, you should be comfortable towing about 6000-6500 pounds loaded. You will be +/- 200 pounds of GVWR, but a good WDH with integrated sway control will make it pleasant. And your 6.2L/6-spd will have no problems moving the weight.
Thanks for all the help so far. I think I'll stick with a trailer in the 5000-5500 range so I can keep the loaded weight under 7k. Although, I'd really like a slide out in the living area but that seems to push the dry weights to just over 6k.
APT wrote: At 1509 pounds of OEM payload with a full tank of fuel, you should be comfortable towing about 6000-6500 pounds loaded. You will be +/- 200 pounds of GVWR, but a good WDH with integrated sway control will make it pleasant. And your 6.2L/6-spd will have no problems moving the weight.
How good of a WDH with sway control do I need if my loaded weight was in the 6500-7000 range? Will one of the sub $1000 ones work or do I need to drop the big bucks and get a Hensley Arrow? TBH, I really would like the arrow just to know I'm getting most pucker free ride possible in my TV. But I'd rather save the cash if a good 500-700 hitch will keep my knuckles from turning white and my palms from sweating.
If I were to push it on up to 7500-8000 loaded, would the arrow definitely make the ride better?
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