pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi,
Male and female plugs are available at rv sellers--but they are pricey--so get the number there and then order it.
The electrician should have a source of supply for parts.
I agree on the 50 foot hard wired cord. I'd use a 3 foot one and a standard 25 foot cord from Walmart with ends that are molded onto the cord. Likely cheaper too.
Regards, Don
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john&bet
North Vernon,in.
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Iowa Cowgirl wrote:When shopping, I could not find the 30 amp male end outlet for the outside of the trailer. I tried every single link on here: http://www.myrv.us/electric/
Not one of them had one.
The guy wants to hard wire the 50' cord with the plug so I'm forced to stow it on the outside of the horse trailer. I don't want that. I want to be able to unplug and stow it away inside the trailer! Any ideas where I can find a 30 amp male receptacle 'plug'? If in fact he is a licensed electrician he can get the male inlet at any electrical supply house. I have several times. Good luck and Happy trails.
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Iowa Cowgirl
Iowa
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Thank you for the information.
I am doing the shopping for the parts and already have everything all the items for the hard wired cord that I don't want. I did the shopping to save time and likely $$ for myself. Just wanted to know what/where to get what I needed and if I should order online or locally.
Again, thank you for the info! 
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Bob Landry
Austin, texas
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I'm probably going to disagree with most of what's been said here. My background is in Marine Electrical, but shore power is shore power regardless of what it's installed in.
You need a breaker box that will hold a double 30A breaker for the input and an appropriate number of breakers for subcircuits. Both current carrying legs of the input power need to be broken by a C/B and a two pole 30A breaker will do that. The rest of the breakers will be 15A with possibly the AC breaker being an exception. I would go with a 20A for the AC. All of your outlets can be on one 15A breaker. If you have a kitchen area and you are going to have outlets there, they need to be protected by a GFCI. That can be the first one in the string as it will protect every outlet that is installed after it. Every AC device or appliance needs to be on it's own circuit breaker. If the panel is not large enough to hold the needed number of breakers, go with a larger panel.
Power input -
You will be pretty disatisfied with a hard wired cord that hangs on the side of the trailer. Likewise with a hard wired cord that pushes into a "mousehole". That requires a box to be built somewhere inside that will store the cable whem not in use. I personally like the detachable cords that can be rolled up and stored out of site when not needed. Marinco makes cord, plugs, and outlets for this and are available at marine and RV stores. How I did mine is shown below. It detaches and stores away.
As far as wiring, 14ga wire is rated for 15A and is good for all of the wiring except the A/C. That needs 12ga which is rated for 20A. The shore power cord is 10ga and that needs to be 10ga all the way to the breaker box.
You did not mention anything in the way of lighting, so I assume you are going to use standard household type lighting fixtures(115V) You won't have that many lights, so they can all run on one 15A breaker. You can use stranded wire if you like, but trailers are wired with romex(cheaper), and I have never seen a wire break from mechanical vibration in a vehicle, but I'm not saying it can't happen, I've just never seen it. If your electrical guy is any good, he'll secure the wiring with some type of clamps, so you are going to get minimal vibration anyway.
PM me if you have any specific questions.
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sljkansas
Miami Co. Kansas
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Here you go. CORRECTED
30 amp
50 amp
* This post was
edited 05/08/12 06:30am by sljkansas *
Steve & Linda
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Bob Landry
Austin, texas
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The links to the parts you indicated are for source voltage wall plates, not the inlet side for the trailer.
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sljkansas
Miami Co. Kansas
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Bob, I did an OOPS, thanks for catching it. It now has been corrected.
* This post was
edited 05/08/12 06:32am by sljkansas *
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Bob Landry
Austin, texas
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So far, Marinco is the only manufacturer I have found that has components for the trailer side of this type of retrofit and are actually marine products. They offer a kit that some people have had success with. Others have not because of the size of the existing mousehole and the cover in the kit may or may not cover it completely. I prefer individual components over kits because it allows you to cut your own mounting piece and gives a much neater result.
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Iowa Cowgirl
Iowa
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Thank you for the information.
It doesn't look like the Marinco item will fit a standard 30A extension cord. It almost looks like an item for a generator cord. Is that correct?
Here's the kind of connection I'm referring to: 30 Amp cord
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi Cowgirl,
Yes, what you posted is a standard 30 amp RV cord. But It would be better to have two 30 foots than one 50 foot. They weigh a lot. Cheapest price is probably Walmart.
I would use about 3 feet from where ever the breaker panel/converter is going to be and then the two cords. Most often one will be enough.
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