The Op is looking for help And now the thread is headed towards a rat hole. back on track,
Can your truck pull your trailer yup, the way you hoped nope and for how long until the trainy gives up. People on the site gave good suggestion the first is research. The forum has plenty of info on how to control weight and all the lingo associated. The second is go back to the dealer they will most likely help because they do not want to loose your business. Give them a chance offer suggestions but you may have to down size the TH or upgrade your truck. It always comes down to $$ be prepared. I'm guessing Downsizing will be cheaper than upgrading truck but if your set on this TH then new truck. That is what i had to decide and now I am a happy camper and hopefully you will be, that's why we do this stuff.
Let's stay on topic folks. OP is asking for advice as a beginner. While some may believe "caveat emptor" this forum is here to *help* them, not to criticize. There's a lot of good advice to this point.
rockportrocket wrote: No I just happen to disagree with most post. Only intellegent people buy rvs at the prices they cost, or so I think.
Some one with a 1/2 ton pick up, a Tundra on top of that, buys a trl like they are discussing, makes me wonder what they have been drinking.
If you cant handle the truth , dont start something like this .
You actually are probally one that would sue McDees for serving hot coffee and you burned yourself with it.
Explain the difference please.
Since you're adding nothing to this post maybe you should just step aside.
To the OP, I think maybe more research may have been in order on your end but the fact the CW sold you this monstrosity and never once advised you that you would be pushing the limits of your TV is quite pathetic. The way they set up the WDH is the topper. Go back to CW and talk reasonably and sensibly to them and see what they will do for you.
LLeopold wrote: Let's stay on topic folks. OP is asking for advice as a beginner. While some may believe "caveat emptor" this forum is here to *help* them, not to criticize. There's a lot of good advice to this point.
'Nuff said.
Most of us have been giving considered advice.....nuff said? yes, just IMO two pages too late.
A huge "FAIL" on Camping World's part first of all.
Everybody telling you to weigh this or weigh that....to move this around or move that....to adjust the hitch like this or that..
A complete waste of time.
You have only two choices here.
1. You get rid of the toy hauler and get something more capable for your Tundra to tow..
2. You get a tow vehicle that will allow you to safely manage that much of a load...because even if you hitch, load, etc. adjusted properly you are way past what that Tundra can handle.
A 36' trailer for a short wheel base vehicle like yours for starters...that in itself isn't unsafe if the hitch setup and loads are correct..but that is still a LOT of trailer lengthwise for that truck..
However...if that TH is really 9,000 lbs. dry then by the time you load your bikes AND pack you're probably approaching 10,500-11,000 lbs. That is WAY over what a 1/2 ton suspension is going to handle.
I can't believe more people have not advised you of this...meaning everybody in this thread.
2000 Ford F350 XLT 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel CC 4x4 OffRoad SRW Long Bed
2008 Jayco Eagle 314BHDS (Momma Eagle)
Equalizer Hitch System (1400/14000lbs)
Prodigy Brake Controller
Curt XD Class V Receiver Hitch (1500/15000 lb)
First and primary problem, not enough truck. You need at least a 3/4 ton but more likely a one ton.
I disagree with the light tongue weight advice. Toy haulers (TH) are designed to carry a load and that is why they have heavy empty tongue weight. A better hitch and correct adjustment will help but not solve the underlying issue of not enough truck.
I'm hesitant to hold CW responsible. How do we know that the sales rep was ever informed what the tow vehicle was? The sales rep is not our mother and is not responsible for forcing good judgement onto us.
What I think happened is that due to a combination of a light duty truck and poor weight distribution, the steering control probably was almost nonexistent. Because of the overload the steering was very light and the tiniest movement would cause a ripple reaction throughout the rig. I've seen it happen, it results in sway and as that happens the driver becomes white knuckled and worsens the situation even more. I'll bet that thing drove like the front tires were on ice.
Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there.
- Will Rogers, American actor
It's not that CW is responsible it's like bringing your vehicle to your mechanic you expect an honest answer. he would ask what's the problem you might say it has a rattling noise in the front etc He comes back and says you need a tie rod and an alignment.(you normally would not now it needs an alignment after a tie rod) Same with this rv sale what are you using to tow? and that's how the conversation started with my local dealer. Now Cw can do nothing or at least work with the folks. I'll bet they will work with them.
LLeopold wrote: Let's stay on topic folks. OP is asking for advice as a beginner. While some may believe "caveat emptor" this forum is here to *help* them, not to criticize. There's a lot of good advice to this point.
'Nuff said.
Most of us have been giving considered advice.....nuff said? yes, just IMO two pages too late.
X2. Would like to hear back from Divacat once they address this with cw. Best of luck and I hope you are satisfied with whatever the resolution.
Divacat, By now you have received the best advice from those of us who have considered advice and experience to give. At this point you need to sit down with CW and see if you can reason together with them toward an amenable solution
As TxTiger says, please followup on this thread because all of us are interested in the outcome. Good Luck.
Well, as posted here, you already know that the truck is over its capacity.
Keep in mind that that the LEOs in a lot of states and provinces are starting to check the weights, and also if you are in an accident, even if you are not at fault, your insurance will most likely not cover you if you are over your trucks specs, and the opposing insurance will claim you are at least partially at fault, since you shouldn't have been on the road overloaded like that in the first place. So check with your insurance to make sure they will cover you when you are over the specs. (also any warranty on that truck may also be void if you are over the specs, check that out, too). Hope you can get this straightened out, but you are going to have to replace one or the other, and it will cost you $$$.
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