We have ERS through Ford for the first 60,000 miles and that DOES include any camper/trailer attached to the Ford at the time. (Yes, I have checked to make sure this is true), but we also have Good Sam ERS and have had to use it one time. We got the TT stuck in a mucky mire and the truck could not pull it out. A really big wrecker came and pulled both the truck and TT out and we were on our way. IT was great.
I've manged to handle all my road-side emergencies myself so far. Not that there have been that many. With the kind of technology we carry around with us, it's easier to get help when you need it than it was 15-20 years ago.
A couple of years ago on the return trip to Yosemite the clutch throw-out bearing on my truck came apart on a Friday afternoon about 10 miles east of Amarillo. We used our cellphones and laptops to locate a transmission shop that agreed to work on Saturday, and they referred us to a towing company that sent a truck out to tow us back to town.
One thing to remember when you break down hauling a truck camper is your total height. If they send out a rollback to pick you up, you'll probably be over 13.5 ft. tall. Fortunately, the rollback they sent out for us also had a wheel-lift on the back, so he drug us back to town with that. Had to be careful how high he lifted the front axle though. With almost four feet of overhang from the camper, the rear jacks get close to the pavement really quick.
When looking for "Emergency Roadside service" policies, be sure and read the fine print and the exclucions. Do you have to pay up front before they will tow you or assist you? Are there any milage limits they will tow you, then how much per mile after that? Does the policy cover you in all states and Canada? Are there limitations on what they will tow, ie. motorcycle, trailer being towed behind your 5th. wheel or trailer or pusher? Will they only tow you to a repair facility that can repair your specific problem? Does the policy cover all your vechicles? Can you use your ERS card as a passenger in your friends RV?d
Food for thought
with my horses in tow it's US Rider all the way. Only folks that with deal with a horse trailer including finding and towing the trailer and horses to the nearest stabling if they can't repair the tow vehicle or trailer on the spot.
03 F350 Diesel 4x4 Crew Cab long bed, 08 Lance 1055, Rancho 9000xl, Air Lift air Bags, Torqlift tiedowns,stable loads, super hitch, 48" super truss, Toyo 285/75R16 Opencountry HT
I am both an avid camper, Towing company owner, and AAA service provider. First off, if you don't have AAA RV coverage, or, something equivalent, GET IT! The price you would pay for an "RV" tow, versus the membership, is well worth the expense. Second, if your truck and camper need to be towed, because of the height, you would need either a "low-boy" trailer, or a wheel lift. And while the "low-boy" option is the best, not all towing companies have this equipment. The next best thing is to have the front of your truck "wheel lifted". This is where the tow truck lifts the front of your unit via the front tires. Being careful not to lift to high and scrape your rear truck/camper bumper, and being careful not to lift to high, that you are over 14' in height. Most of the time, at least in Washington, this is referred to as a class "B" tow. So, make sure they send out a big enough truck. Then, make double-damn sure the towing company disconects your driveline! DO NOT believe the line of "oh, it is only going a few miles, we can tow it in neutral." Towing a rig in neutral can cause severe transmission damage, as the planetary clutches are still spinning in neutral, but, they are not getting lubricated by the transmission pump. On a manual transmission, you are basically spinning the clutch while it is engaged, by towing it in neutral. A short tow to get you out of an emergency situation is ok, but, you should NEVER, EVER, EVER, neutral tow a rig any length over a mile or two depending on the situation. So, if the towing company does not have a "low-boy", or will not pull the driveline, get another towing company, period. And while most towing companies will charge you a nominal fee to pull the driveline, it will still be much less than the cost of replacing your transmission, or clutch.
That being said, I have found in all of the motorclubs we service, the AAA RV Plus program, is the best one out there for trucks and campers. Depending on what level you sign up for, they will cover your for either a 100 mile tow, or a 200 mile tow, and, that will include the driveline being pulled. Just make sure when you sign up, that you are getting the appropriate coverage needed for your specific units.
That was a lot of very good information. I have never been towed, did not know about the drive-line being disconnected. How do they do that?
Also what if you have 4-wheel drive.
I printed out your comment and i will kept it with my Good Sams ERS card