RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Inputs on my Solar/Battery Design - Updated 06/09

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 > Inputs on my Solar/Battery Design - Updated 06/09

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mena661

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Posted: 05/17/12 02:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smkettner wrote:

The charger leads are probably #10. (BFL13 should know)
I think they're #8. About using the shunt, make sure you have enough threads for a tight connection. You don't want any arcing there.


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cruz-in

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Posted: 05/18/12 05:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mena661

Could you elaborate a bit more on "make sure you have enough threads for a tight connection. You don't want any arcing there."?

Are you referring to having enuff threads to handle two wire lugs?

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Posted: 05/18/12 05:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi All,

Here is my near final. As you can see from looking at the history of this thread, you all's inputs have greatly helped with this evolvong design. Thanks tons!

A couple of items about the current design.

1) I will try and avoid the terminal block on the PV wires. Hopefully my MC-3 wires are long enuff to do this.

2) The Perko Marine switch Batt Set1, Batt Set2, Both, or off switch I already own so I decided to put it to use.

3) I found a really great price on the Morningstar RM-1s so I replaced the "ole school" volt and amp meters.

4) Replacing the "ole school" meters eliminated the need to be near the PV wire run so I can move the meters out of the bathroom to the main control panel on the 5th wheel.

Some System Specs

1) Almost 400 Watts of solar
2) 400 AH of AGM Deep Cycle Batteries


So what do you all think?



smkettner

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Posted: 05/18/12 06:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How long is the run from Sunsaver to Safetyhub? I would be inclined to go #8 wire if you can find the lugs.

I changed my GoPower feed wire to #8 and added a Maxi fuse but I think your fuse is covered. If you extend the length make it all #8 IMO.

You can get a meter hub for the Sunsavers to just have one display. Two displayed is fine if you have the space. Too bad Morningstar does not have a battery meter or you could put all three on one


2001 F150 SuperCrew
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cruz-in

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Posted: 06/09/12 05:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi All,

Here is the final. Ended up simplifying the wire sizes (and lugs) by only using 2 and 10 AWG primarily. Will be wiring next weekend so any last minute suggestions would be appreciated. Can you tell I like data and meters



* This post was edited 06/09/12 05:40pm by cruz-in *

mena661

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Posted: 06/09/12 06:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah, I don't think you have enough meters. Hey, I seriously thought about getting a second Victron and mounting it in the basement by the batteries.

smkettner

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Posted: 06/09/12 07:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Going to be awsome

cruz-in

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Posted: 06/10/12 04:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks all for the great input over the last month or so. I really enjoyed learning and designing the system. Really cool to have all these knowledgeable folks so willing to give of their time and advise.

This was sorta like a Virtual Critical Design Review (CDR) for the system...

cruz-in

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Posted: 06/10/12 04:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One more question:

Is there a preference to which side of the shunt (battery or load) the chassis ground should be on?

I currently have it on the load side.

mena661

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Posted: 06/10/12 01:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cruz-in wrote:

One more question:

Is there a preference to which side of the shunt (battery or load) the chassis ground should be on?

I currently have it on the load side.
Not sure what this means.

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