Terri21

Newfoundland

New Member

Joined: 05/15/2012

View Profile

Offline
|
Hi...recently purchased a 2005 Roadtrek RV with a Dometic RM 2354 fridge in it...was getting things ready for camping and had the RV hooked up to 110 power...pushed on button for fridge (lights came on across front panel)..and went through the sequence of cooling down....set it for max cold and left it....returned a few hours later and no lights were on and unit had not cooled..now it seems there is no power and no lights...nothing working...did I do something wrong?..how do I trouble shoot this?...all fuses including the inline blade fuse (39A) and the two behind fridge (power module) look good...
I posted this a year ago...without any positive results...since then..I have travelled across Canada and the US without a working fridge...stopped at 10 different RV dealers but only 3 found a little time (half hour) to help...seems no one could solve the problem...one installed a new Lower board...another installed a new upper panel board...all fuses replaced behind fridge in power module...and still no light on fridge front panel...have new deep cycle battery...everything in RV works except fridge...am I missing something simple here to solve this problem?...
Thanks for any help and advice...
|
enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile


|
Is there 12 volts DC to the incoming terminal block on fridge?
It could be a bad connection somewhere between the DC power distribution panel. Since everything else works I would eleminate problem between coach battery and DC power ditribution panel.
It could be something as simple as a defective fuse. Try replacing the fuse in the DC power distribution panel. Just looking at a fuse doesn't always mean it is good.
Behind the power panel could be a large splice for all the DC grounds. The refer ground wire could be loose there.
Check connections in the power panel for a loose connection for the refer. Check fuse holder to insure the fuse is tight.
Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
|
pulsar

Lewisville, NC

Senior Member

Joined: 12/30/2001

View Profile


Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Moved from Forum Technical Support to Tech Issues.
|
Redneck57

Utah

New Member

Joined: 05/15/2012

View Profile

Offline
|
Maybe a dumb question, but have you tried to run it on propane to see if the fridge works? This should point you in the direction of the problem, i.e. is it an electrical problem or a fridge problem. Just my .02 worth.
|
Terri21

Newfoundland

New Member

Joined: 05/15/2012

View Profile

Offline
|
Thanks for your kind replies...will change over to some new fuses...(Fridge has a yellow stab 20A in main panel) this one wasn't replaced..will check grounds and check DC from connector power block to fuse panel...had actually cleaned up electrical connections at power block...slight corrosion..not much though...
...have a fresh tank of propane...gas lines I think follow along to stove top as well as fridge...stove lights excellent...thought this might purge most of the air in line to fridge...but the fridge has no control panel lights at all...and doesn't fire up on propane...appears absolutely dead.....
...is there a reset by disconnecting positive lead at power connector block...leaving off a minute or so and then restore...??..a fridge guy I talked with mentioned this and said some of the newer Dometics now come with a reset button?...nothing on the electrical lines on mine that looks like a reset button.......still not sure what it would be that is resetting??....so..once I borrow a tester...will go at it again...
|
|
|
Handbasket

Asheville, NC

Senior Member

Joined: 01/17/2003

View Profile

|
I'm thinking you need to do one of two things... either take it to an good RV shop and be prepared to leave it, or _buy_ a cheapie electrical meter (aka Volt-ohm meter, multimeter, VOM) at Sears or a tool store (under $20-30) and learn to use it. There are abundant explanations online, plus the manual. Practice reading voltage on a flashlight battery, continuity on a piece of wire or coin.
The lights on the panel work on 12V, so either the new board is bad, or there's an issue with the 12V supply or ground.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com
|
loggenrock

New Hampshire

Senior Member

Joined: 06/28/2007

View Profile


Good Sam RV Club Member
Online
|
Maybe the LED (light) is bad? ST
Two and a hound in a 2003 Roadtrek 190P and a pair of Limmers...
First 50 done, working on the second pass!
|
Handbasket

Asheville, NC

Senior Member

Joined: 01/17/2003

View Profile

|
A couple of links I found that may be useful....
The user's manual: http://www.dometic.com/31a5c621-4a0e-4bd0-bbc8-006ba0f165f1.fodoc
The service manual for many newer models of Dometics: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
The parts list with better illustrations than either manual: http://www.dometic.com/36a91f2a-8752-462b-ae68-39dcf2b66b21.fodoc
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
|
Terri21

Newfoundland

New Member

Joined: 05/15/2012

View Profile

Offline
|
...Thanks everyone for all your input...!!...bought a multi tester and went to work......"everything is working except the fridge"...with that stuck in my head..that put me back on track.. the problem was from fuse panel to power block/lower circuit board..so went to work testing for voltage from fuse panel to lower circuit board behind fridge ...checked and tightened all grounds behind panel...installed some new fuses again...where there was no voltage at the power block before...there was now...!..the excitement was unbelievable...powered "On" button and the fridge came to life....!!...now I had LED lights ....went AC at first then Gas/auto...finally a fridge that works....!!...you guys rock..!!..thank-you all very much...Terri
|
enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile


|
Thanks for the update! Glad you were able to work it out.
|
|
|