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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > How much sway is normal - Reese dual cam round bars @ 60mph?

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nevadanick

Elko, Nevada

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Posted: 05/16/12 07:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I still go back to my original answer to the OP (not loaded properly) I tow doubles and have no sway even in high winds.

jerem0621

Sequatchie, TN

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Posted: 05/16/12 08:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think you need to increase the hitch head tilt back away from the tv. Your bars will be able to transfer a lot more weight forward and it should lower. Your tongue a bit. I would ALS try lowering the hitch one more hole and see if that helps or not.

Both of these additions should give you a slightly nose down attitude and increase your tongue weight some.

You almost need a trunnion hitch there is a huge gap between your bars and the trailer frame. You bottom coupler guys are lucky!!!

One more question. The dual cam should have the pivot point about 18 inches away from the coupler. Your looks like its closer to 20 and the cam arms look nearly verticle. IMHO something don't look quite right.

Thanks!

Jeremiah


TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager

"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
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JKQ

Florida

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Posted: 05/16/12 08:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sway has many factors as mentioned. I noticed a slight sway my first trip out in the new TT. Being comfortable in my set up & equiptment I tryed something that worked. My fresh water tank is at the rear of my almost 36ft trailer. Before leaving the campground the next morning I filled my fresh water tank just to see if that would help & it solved the problem (added alot of weight towards the rear of the TT). MY TT was better balanced with that addition.


2013 CruiserRv Enterra 314 RES TT, 36ft, 3 slides
2013 Ford F250 Crew Cab Power Stroke Diesel 4x4
Reese WD hitch with dual friction control bars
Dometic 3000 KW portable genset

JJBIRISH

Butler, PA, USA

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Posted: 05/16/12 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

chracatoa wrote:

Indiandy wrote:

Sway or the push/pull from wind/passing vehicles?


I really don't know. I had a friend of mine riding with me and he said it's normal but I don't think either one of us have enough experience to know it. Certainly not I, it's my first trailer. Maybe it's just the push/pull?

The hitch was badly installed and it bent one of my brackets. A friend of mine and I fixed it - or at least as much as we could. Things are much better now though the only weird thing is that I don't need to move the hitch up to pull the bar up on the chains. Thus my other question - if adding more links would help even though the spring bar would point towards up a little bit.

I must be close to the limit of my Sequoia, for sure. I'll move some weight near the tongue (didn't know about that).

I will also measure the height of the Sequoia before and afterwards.



Looks like you have 7 links under tension… you can try going to 6 links under tension, but I would first leave it at 7 and angle the hitch head back to the next position, then tighten the chain up 1 link if I needed to…

It sounds like you are using to little spring…


Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet


chracatoa

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Posted: 05/16/12 09:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The original pic is a little bit misleading - the trailer was actually pointing down on the car. During the maiden trip that bent the bracket I felt my car going up and down like a horse (also sideways) and the tongue was pointing down.

After that we inverted the 'T' on the hitch and moved the ball higher. The distance from the road to the bottom of the trailer is really high. After that the hitch was finally leveled and I couldn't even notice that I had a trailer when we moved it to its parking place going at 40 mph. A big improvement.

By the way, the first thing we thought when I started fixing the hitch was to just tilt the head a little bit. We did that and nothing fit anymore. We couldn't make it work. After some time going back and forth we realized that the ball should be moved up, not down due to the height of the trailer.


2011 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 5.7L V8 (next will be a 3/4, someday)
2012 Jayco Flight Swift 267BHS (5963lbs dry, 6650 wet)
Propride hitch (I had a Reese dual cam round bar WDH for 4 months)


chracatoa

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Posted: 05/16/12 09:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also, if I tilt the head now (it's higher than in that picture) the spring bars won't sit on the cams anymore.

JJBIRISH

Butler, PA, USA

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Posted: 05/16/12 09:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sure what you mean nothing fit with the hitch head angled down… the angle is just one of the adjustments available… moving it down just a little will move the bar quite a bit at its end, placing much more spring tension to the setup…

This may require you to lift the rear of the TV with the tongue jack to get the chains hooked up to the right link on the snap brackets…

It is that spring tension that I think you need to allow the cams to function correctly…

I am not a hitch expert so other might better guide you on this… that is just my opinion…


EDIT:
If the hitch is to high with the spring tension, start by lowering the hitch head on the shank one hole…

RCMAN46

NorthWest

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Posted: 05/16/12 10:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you look at the physics of towing two things have to be before a trailer will tow well. First it has to have tongue weight. Travel trailers 15% or more is good. 5th wheels 20% or more. The more tongue weight the better as long as the TV can handle the weight. The big guys that we have pass us every day have about 40% pin weight. Second the trailer has to be level. Travel trailers a little nose low is OK, 5th wheels as close to level as possible.
A year or so ago Ford did a television ad about their sway control. To get the test trailers to sway they simply loaded the trailers so they were tail heavy (light tongue weight).

CampingN.C.

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Posted: 05/16/12 10:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

chracatoa wrote:

Also, if I tilt the head now (it's higher than in that picture) the spring bars won't sit on the cams anymore.



Are the cams too tight to allow for any movement? Tilting the head back should only make the cam ride a little lower. When unhooked the cams should "dangle" freely.
If the cams are too tight they will have little to no effect in sway control. just my 2 cents
Someone correct me if I'm off here.


1999 Suburban 454/ 4:10 (GAS HAWG)
2000 Skyline Nomad 3010

chracatoa

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Posted: 05/16/12 11:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CampingN.C. wrote:

chracatoa wrote:

Also, if I tilt the head now (it's higher than in that picture) the spring bars won't sit on the cams anymore.



Are the cams too tight to allow for any movement? Tilting the head back should only make the cam ride a little lower. When unhooked the cams should "dangle" freely.
If the cams are too tight they will have little to no effect in sway control. just my 2 cents
Someone correct me if I'm off here.


See this image. Not to scale, etc. This is what happened for us. And no matter how high we raised the trailer the cam just didn't fit.

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