When my granddaughter outgrew her pink "Barbie Car", I turned it into a "Ranger Jeep" for my grandson using that special plastic paint- worked real well (except on the tires!), but it's way too expensive .
Next project I discovered that there're actually specific primers available for plastics. If you prime with one of those, you'll get good adhesion of any spray paint, even the cheapest.
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies toJ.R.R. Tolkien
Quote: Next project I discovered that there're actually specific primers available for plastics. If you prime with one of those, you'll get good adhesion of any spray paint, even the cheapest.
_____________________
On my former motor home I painted fiberglass bumpers and body panels. The only way it would work though is by using an "etching primer" first. With that base you could use any paint on top of it. I don't know anything about such a primer for plastic but, if it works as well as it does for fiberglass, it makes a huge difference on important, highly visible components.
Also, I regularly paint plastic Purple Martin Nesting Gourds. The plastic formulated paints last much longer than regular paint but you have to use it the first time. If you start with regular paint, the base will be regular paint for a long time no matter what you put on top of it.
I used Krylon Fusion to paint all the yellowed plastic on my TT (except the refrigerator vent - why wasn't it yellow?) 3 or 4 years ago. It still looks great!
I took a little different approach on the vent. I had painted the vent prior to this year on several RVs. It looked OK with the Rustoleum, but just did not look right. So this year the DW asked how much trouble it would be to replace it. I stopped by Camping World and they did not have any in stock. (Lately, it seems like CW would be a nice place to open an RV parts store ... but back to topic) I also stopped by another Camper store and they had several on the shelf for 12.98. I picked up some new screws and a roll of putty tape.
I got home, and set up my ladder, removed the old vent in about 5 minutes (it takes a little work to pry the old one off). Then I took some Acetone and with just a dampened cloth I cleaned the area. Then I used an alcohol soaked rag and cleaned the area even more. I filled the holes with some wood putty and toothpicks, just as a precaution. While I let that dry, the DW had dinner ready and we had a good meal. Upon returning to the project at hand, I laid the new unit up and found that it needed 1/2" trimmed off the inside, so as to fit flush. Trimmed that with a coping saw and it fit perfectly. Then I laid up the putty tape, set the new vent in place and installed the new screws. Trimmed off the excess putty tape and called the DW to take a look.
She was so happy with the new look that she went back in and brought me a snifter of Courviousier XO. Nothing but the best for a good job, that took less than an hour actual working time.
As a side note: I also have a couple of neighbors that have various RVs and will be changing theirs out this year.
Combat Vietnam VeteranSupport our troops for serving our great country.
1997 Veri Lite RL1200 on a '02, K3500, CC, DRW, 8.1L, Allison, 4.1 gears, Bridgestone 225/70R19.5 tires.
Just go get some Purple Power cleaner and mix it 50/50 with water, spary it on the vent, and watch the yellow drip off of it. Rinse it off with water and you should be good until next year.
1998 Freightliner Century C120, Cat C12, 10 speed, 72" Condo sleeper
2006 Forest River All American Sport 385 CKTS
2008 Harley Davidson Road Glide
Good point on trimming the snout (long to fit different wall thickness)
Though I trimmed ours I noted the snout is removable (how they install the swing door). You could just swap old on. After removing 2 small screws tilt top out a bit to free from tabs, then pull up or push up from bottom corners slightly to disengage snout from the full length slotted bottom groove.
Online
Offline
.jpg)
 (Custom).JPG)
