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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Converter failing... I wonder

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mgfiest

Ontario

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Posted: 05/23/12 05:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

This past weekend I got weird stuff going on in my electrical side of my RV. The power would go out for 30 seconds and then come back on again. There was no pattern in this event. It happened about 4 times in 5 days.

Both the AC power and DC power would go out.

I am wondering if my converter is starting to fail.

I check the Park's electrical source and my surge protected was not affected.

I have a 1990 Glendale Class C Motorhome and from what I can see, the electrical stuff seems to be original.

If it is, is it a big deal to put one in. I real don't need to go to a shop to get it repaired, I got most of the tools to make it happen... lol

Thanks

JAXFL

Jacksonville, Florida, USA

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Posted: 05/23/12 05:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

converter ? YES. Go to http://www.bestconverter.com/ and order a new one. When it go out nothing will work.

bsinmich

Holland, MI

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Posted: 05/23/12 06:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After a 22years of bouncing it could also be something as simple as loose wires connecting the convertor. That is also a potential fire hazard with arcing happening. Check that out real soon.


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garym114

Bluff Dale, Texas

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Posted: 05/23/12 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Probably not the converter. It would not cause 110v AC to go out and return without a 110v breaker trip.
Check all wiring from shore power connector and main breaker panel.


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Matt_Colie

Southeast Michigan

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Posted: 05/23/12 07:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Migfest,

I have seen this before.
You have two problems:
There is a loose connection in your shore power feed.
You batteries are probably toast.

Before you get much farther, disconnect shore power (like plug ON THE GROUND) - Disconnected and open the AC panel. Loosen then tighten every screw you can find that has copper under it.

Why Loosen First?
Because there is a heat affected area in the connection that will not be corrected by just tightening, but if you loosen first and then tighten, things will change places enough to work.

As to your batteries, if the 12V goes down at the same time or just a little after the 120V, it maybe new battery time. But again, connections can screw this up - too. So, clean all the battery connections before you do any thing rash (like buying batteries). Then, get them charged and try again. You may just luck out.

Matt


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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 05/23/12 08:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Matt has a good suggestion. I would go a little farther. Before starting, go to your local hardware store and get some electrical grease and small brass brush. Then remove each conductor from it's termination point, clean wire, apply some electrical grease to it, and re-terminate.
Pay special attention to the neutral buss(white wires) in the back of the AC panel.
Remove and inspect each of the circuit breakers. Clean with brass wire brush. Apply electrical grease and re-install.


Bud
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mgfiest

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Posted: 05/23/12 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

thanks all.. i will work on the suggestions you have all provided... I hope it is just a loose wire.. would make my day.

Dusty R

Charlotte Michigan 48813

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Posted: 05/23/12 09:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Matt has a good suggestion. I would go a little farther. Before starting, go to your local hardware store and get some electrical grease and small brass brush. Then remove each conductor from it's termination point, clean wire, apply some electrical grease to it, and re-terminate.
Pay special attention to the neutral buss(white wires) in the back of the AC panel.
Remove and inspect each of the circuit breakers. Clean with brass wire brush. Apply electrical grease and re-install.


That electrical grease is anti-oxidation grease/paste used on aluminum wire at terminations, which is required. Not necessary for copper wire, can't hurt through.


Dusty

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Garden Grove, CA, USA

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Posted: 05/23/12 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you were parked in an RV Park, the "shore" power may have gone out and come back on a few times. Your 12 volt stuff should have continued to work if your house battery switch was on, and battery was charged. Make sure that the two heavy guage wires from converter to battery are securely connected, there is a connector block with allen head set screws that clamp down on wires to the battery.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 05/23/12 11:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most rigs have aluminum buss work especially the neutral buss. Some have tinned copper so the coating degrades.

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