I was reading another thread, and several mentioned a 3 stage converter. I know I don't have that, nor do I have an inverter. Can anyone give me an idea of the cost of upgrading to the 3 stage? I have 50amp. I am not a DIYer, it would be done at a service center - any idea of how much labor (time) for a tech to do this? I have to add quite a bit of water to the batteries, and I have an occasional surge/flicker of my interior lights. (told it might be converter cycling? )
Happy Memorial Day, and a huge thank you to all the VETS!!!!
Kathy
'02 KOUNTRY STAR DP
2012 HONDA FIT "PUMPKINMOBILE"
GILLIGAN- 1ST MATE CAT - 3 HR TOUR
How old are your batteries?? Have you had them checked?? I would not condemn them yet, sounds like the convertor is working. But it shouldn't take an hour to replace the convertor.
2010 Ram 3500, Crew Cab, Long bed, 4 x 4,Dually, Lights & Siren!
I agree that it shouldn't take very long, probably be charged for an hours work.
Of course, that would also depend on if the new unit is the same size, and will basically "swap out" easily.
Basically, they would be removing the wires to/from the unit, then un-bolt it, and pulling it out......probably about 15-30 minutes...then reverse in those steps to install it.
It would probably make a lot of sense to have them take a look at your current unit, to see if there is some other problem with it.....Still, a very good chance that they will try to sell you a new unit anyway. They can also "Load test" your batteries, to see if they are OK.
Good luck
Bill & Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris / GS MJ Dogs: Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie, Annie, Maggie, Tugger & Beau RIP: Cookie, Foxy & Gidget @ Rainbow Bridge.
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April 2008 FMCA# F407293 The Pets
If you own an RV, it makes sense to purchase a battery load tester. Most of the auto stores sell them for $35-$40 and you'll use it ofter to really know how good your batteries are performing.
As far as changing a converter, it's really pretty easy. I changed the one in my travel trailer and if your pretty handy and the instructions are good, use a DVM (digital volt meter) and you'll get the job done in an hour or two. Good luck! Ron
You have KSDP by Newmar and it is EASY for YOU to do. YOu should have an Iota Power Converter. Now, Newmar offered a Inverter/charger as an option. NOT just a plain Inverter. So, you need to verify if you have a Power Converter or a Inverter/Charger. Go to your SHORE cord Compartment, if you have a Converter, it will be mounted on the wall in that Compartment and it will say IOTA. It will be silver in color about the size of a shoe box. IF you have the Iota get this part from the link here. It just plugs into your Converter with a phone cord modular end. Doug
You say you have 50amp. Do you mean the coach shore power? (4 prong plug?) If that is what you are thinking about, that has nothing to do with the task at hand.
Before you do anything rash, your water loss might relate more to driving time. Engine alternators don't have very good regulators and tend to cause water loss in many cases. The flickering may be connections that need cleaning.
I suggest that you locate your converter/charger and see if you can find out more about it. If it is not a three stage, then replace it with one. Cost of the new converter and replacement should be no more than 400$ and you will save that in the battery life you will get.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
I agree with Matt. We have a 2003 Newmar and it has a three stage converter. I believe all Newmar motor homes built since at least 2000 (probably even before that) had three stage converters. You should take you motor home in to a qualified RV tech and have them check you 12 volt system.
Good luck - John
John & Maria and Tucky - An American Eskimo Dog
2003 Newmar DSDP 4050 - On the road April 1, 2005 - Free at last!
Currently in San Diego, CA!
You say you have 50amp. Do you mean the coach shore power? (4 prong plug?) If that is what you are thinking about, that has nothing to do with the task at hand.
Before you do anything rash, your water loss might relate more to driving time. Engine alternators don't have very good regulators and tend to cause water loss in many cases. The flickering may be connections that need cleaning.
I suggest that you locate your converter/charger and see if you can find out more about it. If it is not a three stage, then replace it with one. Cost of the new converter and replacement should be no more than 400$ and you will save that in the battery life you will get.
Matt
Yes, Newmar installed a 3 stage CAPABLE Converter, but did NOT install the IQ controller that makes it a fully functional 3 stage charger. Doug
ColoCamper wrote: I agree with Matt. We have a 2003 Newmar and it has a three stage converter. I believe all Newmar motor homes built since at least 2000 (probably even before that) had three stage converters. You should take you motor home in to a qualified RV tech and have them check you 12 volt system.
Good luck - John
You HAVE a 3 stage capable, but Newmar did NOT install the IQ controller for that. Yes, Newmar DID install 3 stage capable Converters but did not install the IQ smart Controller for that. Doug
Kathy... we just replaced our old "boil 'em out" converter/charger with a Progressive Dynamics 45A version; cost was about $160 at Amazon.
On our coach the converter is inconveniently mounted behind the entry steps (mid-entry coach) which, thankfully, is accessed by a Joey Bed from the driver's side.
First I turned off the 50-A shore power at the breaker in the shop. Then I disconnected all the negative battery leads.
Then I had the DW lay on the Joey Bed and I pushed her in (with tools and a light). She unplugged the converter from the 120vac socket located nearby, unscrewed the 4 fasteners (screws) holding the converter to the bulkhead behind the stairs and unwrapped the electrician's tape from the 2 wires leading to the battery bank.
On our old converter there were two wires that had ring-connectors. These were connected to the ring connectors on the wires coming from the battery bank. She removed the capscrews and nuts that secured the connectors together.
Then I pulled her out on the Joey bed.
The Progressive Dynamics unit doesn't have built-in wires to the batteries so I had to prepare two of them by crimping ends on them that would mate with the ones leading from the battery bank. I also soldered them and connected them to the converter's positive and negative output bus. Then the DW got back onto the Joey Bed and I pushed her back into the bay. She secured the new unit (which is smaller than the old one) by drilling a couple of new holes with the drill I passed in to her, secured the new converter to the bulkhead, and fastened the wires from the converter to the appropriate (positive and negative) wires leading to the battery bank and carefully wrapped them with black electrical tape. She then connected the ground wire to the chassis ground and plugged the converter/charger in to the nearby 120vac socket.
Then I pulled her out of the bay on the Joey Bed, reconnected the battery negative wires, turned on the 50-amp breaker in the shop and measured the voltage at the batteries (13.3vdc). Then we put away the tools, locked up the coach, shut the shop doors and I took her out to dinner.
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