cb1000rider
Austin, TX
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Joined: 04/27/2012
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99 Holiday Rambler Vacationer.
Rear HWH stablizers will not retract... I have read the manual, but I'm looking for a little advice.
They will deploy, seem to be clean. I can get them back in via use of a floor jack and a little pressure, but obviously this is non-ideal...
Can someone explain to me how the retract system works? The are spring loaded, but in order to trigger retraction, does the solenoid have to go on to allow fluid to flow back to the pump?
* This post was
edited 05/29/12 08:55pm by cb1000rider *
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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What type of system do you have? Look on control head to determine. Varies somwewhat from each system. Are jacks kickdown or straight acting?
Here is one flow chart.
HWH
Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
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1995brave
San Antonio, TX
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Joined: 01/24/2006
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If you can push them up, then you probably have weak return springs. Old style are straight and new stronger springs are tapered on the ends.
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wny_pat
Western NYS
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Joined: 08/11/2007
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Everything you could possibly want to know about HWH leverling systems: http://www.hwhcorp.com/custserv3.html. Like 1995brave said, probably the return springs if you have that type. Often the problem.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Joined: 06/11/2007
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If your springs are WEAK, then you can manually push the cylinder to retract with your hand. If you cannot push them up with your hand, and need the force of a jack, then the inner seals of the cylinder are bad and the cylinder needs replaced or rebuilt. rebuilt is cheaper but you have to wait 2 to 4 weeks for them to rebuild it at HWH. Doug
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sch911
Rochester Hills, MI
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Joined: 04/13/2003
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Weak springs and worn cylinders. Replace both and they'll work fine.
Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep Engineer
2003 Damon Challenger 348 Class A - F53 Triton V10
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azpete
paulden
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Joined: 07/03/2008
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try new springs first. if you can get either an ap number or a rap number off either jack on the rear, hwh can tell you which set fits your jacks. replace both rear sets. for the price, if you have old square end springs on the front, you may want to do front and rear. if no numbers are apparent, measure the diameter of the shiny shaft, and the extended length. that will help. call hwh direct and order from them. cheapest and fastest way to go.
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cb1000rider
Austin, TX
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1995brave wrote:If you can push them up, then you probably have weak return springs. Old style are straight and new stronger springs are tapered on the ends.
I can push them up using a jack, no way they're going up by hand.. not even close...
The springs are tapered.
I have the joystick control unit:
HWH 200 Series
Model number is: ML0525 - Joystick hydraulic leveling, straight jacks
http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml0525.pdf
So I need someone to explain to me how these things work, if you guys don't mind... I don't mind pulling and rebuilding the cylinders if that's what I need to do, but before pulling them, I'd like to understand and verify the issue.
When I choose to deploy these, obviously the pump runs. Do the solenoids open at the stabilizer? Trying to understand what makes them deploy and how the fluid is recovered when retracting - is the solenoid opened again w/o pump pressure?
* This post was
edited 05/29/12 09:00pm by cb1000rider *
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wny_pat
Western NYS
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"JACKS WILL NOT RETRACT COMPLETELY
Jack clogged with mud or ice.
Main rod bent or scored.
Valve plunger is not completely depressed by valve
Spring weak or broken.
Hydraulic line pinched"
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cb1000rider
Austin, TX
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Right, I've got that in the manual..
No mud or ice.
I can't see scoring or bending, they look good - also it's BOTH rear jacks, not just one.
"Valve plunger is not completely depressed" - anyone know what this means?
Again, if someone can explain what keeps these things deployed and what changes when they are in the retract position, I'd appreciate it.
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