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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Fiberglass roof replacement 1992 winnebago

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fish13

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Posted: 05/31/12 11:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi there we have a 1992 winnebago adventurer.

We recently had water coming in the roof when it rained. We took it to several different dealers to take a look at it. Final decision - roof needs to be replaced. Cost - $6000.

Hubby is very handy and can fix just about anything - has built additions on our home etc.

How difficult would it be to replace the roof ourselves? I have heard of others who replaced with alternatives to the fiberglass.

We are forseeing obvious removal of all protrusions, old roof - replace old wood and go from there with new roof.

What would be involved?

Any help would be welcome - $6000 is just out of the question - and since we took a loan out 2 years to purchase this rv - we have to finish paying off the balance.

1995brave

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Posted: 05/31/12 11:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Link to the Winnebago manuals.
Winnebago uses a fiberglass roof. It is tucked and sealed at the edges and a sealant put down. Someone had to do a whole lot of walking or storing items on that roof to wear it through.

fish13

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Posted: 05/31/12 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have owner the Rv for 2 years. We have not stored anything on top and have only been up there walking once or twice.

Honestly I think the dealer is exaggerating however we do have a leaking problem. The roof sags next to the rear air unit. We might be able to brace that from underneath and completely seal top. Suggestions for a good full surface sealant for potential pin holes or cracks etc?

Dealer put through positive pressure test and noted there were too many areas of concern. I agree roof does not appear to need full replacement from looking at it. This is the third place we have taken it. The first 2 sealed all protrusions and inspected. Noted sag but did not recommend full roof replacement. This is the first positive pressure test.

Certainly we cannot do $6000. We would have a newer rig if we could afford that.

1995brave

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Posted: 05/31/12 11:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You may only need to replace the gaskets under the roof airs and seal the other roof vents and other protrusions on the roof.

fish13

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Posted: 05/31/12 12:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All protrusions have been sealed and gasket is new. Roof does sag around rear unit. Apparently there are other spots they were noted in the testing.

mph_medic

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Posted: 05/31/12 12:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm not sure if I can advise you take it with a grain of salt.. but I have had two TT and now I upgraded to a class A.. all used and all with ugly roofs.. So the first project I did was to replace the roof with a rubber EPDM type..I would clean off the roof, scrape up all old rubber and check the decking, remove the rain gutters and awning then open up the front and end caps, replace any damaged wood and braces... went on Ebay bought the rubber and gluse 1/2 the cost of local RV shops.. rolled the rubber up and unrolled as I glued it down.. I have yet to have any problems.. I have done a 11' a 27' and just completed my 32' RV... it takes a good weekend but the results are great.. and the peace of mind knowing that the roof will not leak is worth the sweat it takes to do it.. plus I spent only about $300 to do the 32' rv and not the thousands the rv Shops wanted..

Hope this helps.. as I can be done.. Your pocketbook will guide you...


Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics...

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Polishnurse

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Posted: 05/31/12 02:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Understand that when you go to dealer, he is assuming the responsabilty for a certain number of years. He has to cover his butt should a leak develop down the road with thousands of dollars of potental damage. If you are realy over a barrel, go to lowes and pick up some of the white rubber roof paint, clean the roof and roll that stuff out, should last you a year or so. You can also go to a roofing supply and get some EPDM as MPH Medic recommended and glue it down as recommended, that should last eight to 10 years or longer. You have a good foundation in fiberglass roof to work from. If you half way handi it shouldn't be hard repair. Good Luck Bill

katysdad

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Posted: 05/31/12 05:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have not done it or seen one but have heard of people having the truck bed liner sprayed on.


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pulsar

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Posted: 05/31/12 06:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from Forum Technical Support.

fish13

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Posted: 05/31/12 07:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How could we fix sag if we elect to To seal?

If we do rubber roof do we remove all od roof and replace rotted wood and them do a rubber roof?

Cannot find any videos with fiberglass roofs

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