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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Cutting Hardboard

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chimeraxp

calgary

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Posted: 06/14/12 11:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hey all , So i'm at the final stages on the trailer , and looking at the best way to cut the hard board ( Masonite )it's thin 1/8" I believe .

I only had to open and replace the front and rear with very little on either side .


but google has a few different ways to cut it .
I don't have things like routers , table saws etc .
I do have hand tools, Jigsaws ,skillsaw etc.
but with the board being so thin i'm worried about breaking it during cutting.

any tips ?

thanks again guys

NanciL

Bakersville, NC, USA

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Posted: 06/15/12 03:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is simple to cut with your skill saw or sabre saw.
In order to keep it from breaking just keep the material on a solid surface and make sure you hold it and the saw down firmly.
To get a good straight cut; rather than just following a line, clamp a straight edge that will be a guide for your saw.

Jack L


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nypatnva

Amelia Ct Hse Va

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Posted: 06/15/12 03:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get a plywood blade for your skilsaw at Lowes or Home Depot. A blade with fine teeth.


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Pepperoni

Ypsilanti, Michigan 48198

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Posted: 06/15/12 04:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

chimeraxp wrote:

hey all , So i'm at the final stages on the trailer , and looking at the best way to cut the hard board ( Masonite )it's thin 1/8" I believe .

I only had to open and replace the front and rear with very little on either side .


but google has a few different ways to cut it .
I don't have things like routers , table saws etc .
I do have hand tools, Jigsaws ,skillsaw etc.
but with the board being so thin i'm worried about breaking it during cutting.

any tips ?

thanks again guys


For straight cuts, try clamping between two pieces of 1x6. Then you should e able to cut with your jigsaw by just guiding the blade along the side of the 1x.

Curves may require sacrificing a bit of timber to cut the curves in your guides beforehand.

Look for plastic or metal edging strips for joints or corners. They have grooves for the paneling to fit, can be bent for curves and make a good-looking joint or corner.

Also ask for the little plastic reinforcing disks (rosetttes, flowers, stars) to support screws through thin panels. Some types may have snap covers to hide screws.

For running wiring, computer wires, etc, consider surface mount channel, which can be run in corners or baseboards. After mounting and running wires, the cover snaps in place to hide the wiring.

Masonite comes in many prefinished colors and patterns, the best are usually found finished for remodeling bathrooms. Others may be finished to look like fabric or textile. There are so many patterns that retailers cannot carry them all. If you do not see what you want, look elsewhere. Patterns often change yearly.

sharker6

fulltime KY, NC, FL, MA, TN

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Posted: 06/15/12 04:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've used a box cutter blade and a clamped metal straight edge in the past. Takes 3 or 4 passes and is the cleanest cut you can get. Be sure to use quality blades and watch out for your finger tips.


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Padlin

W. Ma.

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Posted: 06/15/12 05:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I made an "X" out of 2 8' 2x4's notching the middles so they interlock (I've used the same set for years now). You can then lay the 'x8' sheet of masonite or whatever on them, set your circular saw a bit deeper then the material to be cut, clamp a straight edge of some sort to the masonite as a guide (you can buy a saw guide if you want to spend the $$$) and cut away. They sell masonite blades but any fine tooth blade will do. Masonite throws off a lot of fine dust. If it's thin enough sharker6's idea would work, cutting length ways may be tough.


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Lady Fitzgerald

Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth

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Posted: 06/15/12 06:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In addition to what others have suggested (all are good tips), use a fine tooth carbide blade in your circular saw. Masonite is more abrasive than wood or plywood and will dull steel teeth faster. A sharp blade is essential to getting a clean cut. Always try to cut from the bottom of the piece to avoid tearout on on the good face.


Jeannie

chimeraxp

calgary

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Posted: 06/15/12 08:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

WOW is all I can say , thanks to everyone for all the helpful Idea's I'm going to finish up my coffee and get dressed , and head out to the garage and start cutting. !

Downwindtracker2

BC

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Posted: 06/16/12 10:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use a skilsaw and a straightedge a lot ,and I have Unisaw with a Unifence.There are a couple of tricks,support the cut and the sheet with cheap 2x4s. One 2x4 under the cut,into but not through,others so the sheet doesn't fall or move.The other thing is saw blades,there is a great difference in quaility of carbite blades. I have a fine 40tooth house brand and a general purpose 24t Freud,the 24 cuts smoother.As others have said, face down,teeth after they exit,tear.


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