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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Usable Life of a Truck

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Billieg2

Lake Wales Fl

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Joined: 02/28/2011

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Good Sam RV Club Member

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Posted: 06/19/12 08:55am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 2007 6.0 has over 200k on it and still going strong. If you want to get depressed just look at the prices they are getting for used trucks never mind new. Spend a few grand and fix it.


In my life I've spent my money on women, booze, Harleys, guitars and traveling, the rest I just wasted...

2007 Ford F-350 diesel/dually & Sunnybrook Titan KSRV 39-1 Toy hauler 5th wheel hauling my custom Harley


MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Joined: 07/13/2002

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Posted: 06/19/12 02:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the side swipe damage going to be paid by insurance? It does seem like a lot of 'unlucky' things have happened to your entire rig lately.. I can see where that would put a crimp in wanting to hang on to the rig...

Can't help you with getting a new truck... I'd love to be able to get a new one myself, but just can't bare to go back to monthly payments again! It's been so nice not having them for I think going on 6 years now..

For now, I'm just going to replace whatever needs fixing on the ol' truck/trailer and go from there..

Mitch


2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2003 Prowler Lynx 722F #5000 GVWR and weighs every bit of it! Happy Camping!


BenK

SF BayArea

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Joined: 04/18/2002

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Posted: 06/28/12 03:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just picked up my Suburban after having it SMOGGED, steering box
and linkage/rod/etc replaced, heater valve, driver/passenger door
lock motors replaced and some other minor stuff....oh, all four O2's
were also changed...they should have been changed at around 100K miles

I'll be keeping the Sub till the wheels fall off and see no reason not to

Extremely hard life at 160K miles. Both towing, boy racer blasts and
testing buddies proto-types (mostly brake pads).

Dash oil gauge has the 7.4L big block still hold 40psi at idle and
now the running PSI is a bit down to around 70PSI. It used to peg
it on cold start up (well past the 80PSI mark) both at idle and highway

The Moog HD rod/links/etc are worn out at just over 30K miles and
so disappointed in their change in quality after Moog sold out and
is now run by bean counters.

Here is the SMOG test and it is well below the state averages for both
cars and trucks.

OBTW...note the 5.2K test weight...it is out of the book and that is
the 'curb' weight of a 8.6K GVWR, big block 7.4L, 4x4 Suburban...yeah right...




BenK wrote:

My 32 year old 1980 Silverado listed in my sig continues to run...even after
towing a +14K lb utility trailer that bent the Silverado's frame rail during a
hellish ride coming down a windfarm in the Tehachapi Pass (Pajeula Peak, former Arbutus).

It weighed well over 7K lbs, that for a 'heavy half' of it's day with a 6,200 lb GVWR

Praise Dyno Braking shoes and pads with a larger MC & double chamber power assist

Built 5.7L (SS valves, 280 cam, head work, 4 bolt, Edelbrock Performer intake &
carb, etc) along with a built automatic. 3.73's with 33/12.5R15LT load range C's on alloy 15x8's...can still beat up many 'cars' out
on the boulevard when out there cruising after a run to the hardware store...

Think on it's 3rd AC compressor. Also it's 2nd radiator.

HD U-Joints and shocks. 1 ton coil helper springs on the rear axle.

40,000 lb rated ATF cooler in front of the main radiator. Cold, ram air into the
OEM filter canister, which has the OEM over sized air filter.

Silverado was the highest trim level back then...not the model line it is today.
No power anything (crank windows).

It is approaching 500K miles. Sig is old and can't change it...else have to par
it down as the new rules limits the number of characters allowed

Works for me, but most here would have tossed it decades ago. Plus it
has sentimental value...dad gave it to me after abusing it for years
as their mom'n pop grocery/butcher shop truck.

Current TV is a 1996 GMT400 8.6K GVWR Suburban K3500/4x4/7.4L/4.1/SLT (highest
trim level)/etc.

Now in the shop getting a new steering box because I wore out the OEM one.

Was looking at going to diesel, but after reading the futures back in the
early 2000's, decided to avoid the EPA mandated SMOG freight train coming down
the road.

Most likely will NEVER buy new again, as the fashion statement crowd has driven
the new trucks into pure luxury with little of the 'truckness' I like/love/demand

Plus can't work on the new trucks, as the OEMs have dumbed it down by ever increasing
complexity with computer controlled everything.

If me, I'd just keep it and fix whatever till the wheels fall off or
can't/won't fix it anymore. Would still have my 1973 K5 Blazer, but
the body rusted badly and the now Ex said I had to sell it...
Sold my 1970 FJ40 for the K5 because of her...should'a kept the FJ40
and dumped her...



-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

valhalla360

No paticular place.

Senior Member

Joined: 08/19/2009

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Posted: 06/24/12 06:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just put $800 into suspension work and u-joints on the old F250. Since that's the only work we've put into if for a year, that works out to...$67/month payment.

The equivilent new truck retails for $60,000 (yeah, you could probably get a better deal by negotiating). On a 5 year loan at 6%, that's a monthly payment of...$1160.

I'd have to be in the $8-10,000/year level before it would make financial sense to replace the truck.

I get 22mpg not towing. My brother in law who I bought the truck off of...his new roughtly equivilent truck gets 15mpg. He has more power and it's pretty but being able to take it out an use it is even more pretty.

An idea: Firgure out what the payment on a new truck would be and start putting them in a savings account. We originally thought this truck was only to get us by 6-12 months until we could save up for a nicer truck. We saved up the money but couldn't bring outselves to replace a truck that runs just fine. The money is still in the bank for when the truck does give out.


Tammy Mike & the Bilge Rat (AKA: Diego)
Ford F250 7.3L
1997 Sunnybrook 27' 5er
1995 Gemini Sail Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and 5er


DrBaker

Oklahoma

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Joined: 09/02/2009

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Posted: 06/20/12 04:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also consider insurance and tags/registration. This is often more for a newer truck. These reoccurring costs add up just like a new truck payment.


2011 Chevy 2500HD CC/SB 4x4 Victory Red
2003 Crossroads Cruiser CF27RL
Champion Screamer, Reese 16k, and a Blue Status Symbol

retired-tech

flint mi

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Joined: 11/28/2011

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Posted: 06/19/12 10:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you can make a lot of repairs for what a truck payment would be, only the payments come every month whether you use it or not.


2000 K3500 CCLB DRW 6.5 TURBO
2009 Cougar 320 SRX
2007 atlas 24 auto hauler
1987 GMC origional low miles


2BLAZERS

KEIZER, OREGON

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Joined: 07/11/2005

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Posted: 06/28/12 05:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd feel comfortable enough to keep driving your rig until the wheels fall of or you really need a big change (like SRW to Dually). With today's newer diesel trucks we should all expect 300K miles out of them. Just know that maintenance is important and that yes trannys, tires, brakes happen it is still likely much cheaper then a new truck.

At the camp grounds even people with 25 year old trucks and campers are still having a good time


2011 Dodge Ram 3500 4*4 Black dually Laramie 4.10 gears
2011 Arctic Fox 1150 Drybath
2009 Polaris RZR w/fun parts
2011 Polaris Sportsman 550 XP EPS w/stuff
2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 w/stuff
1977 K5 Blazer 1 ton modified
2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid (her car)

Wanderingman

Aransas Pass, TX, USA

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Joined: 06/24/2006

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Posted: 06/29/12 06:01am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the support. I got my truck back from the body shop yesterday, and they did a great job. I'm ready to hang onto the truck a few more years.

The mechanic could not reproduce my a/c problem (he didn't have an RV to tow ). But he replaced a part anyway (cylanoid?) with no charge.

The RV is still a month or so away from being repaired.


Rockwood Signature Ultra Light 5th Wheel 8280WS
2004 F250 CC, PSD, SB
B&W Companion Hitch
Wife: Kathy (not property, but she didn't want to be left out)
2 doxies: PD & Frank


64thunderbolt

Az

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Joined: 06/18/2012

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Posted: 07/01/12 12:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just a word of caution on the 6.0. You need to get an Edge CTS monitor or guages to monitor the eng vitals. Biggest concern is the egr cooler plugging up. If not caught in time it's not if but when a catastrofic failure will occur. If the oil temp & coolant temp is monitored and stay close in temp it's good. When the oil temp starts exceeding the coolant temp trouble is right around the corner. My friend just spent around $10K fixing his. His oil temps got above 290* on a 6% pull with a 40' Warrior. If maintained and monitored you are good to go.

The sterling diff is stout. If it's a dually the Dana 80 is real stout. Change the oil and add ford friction modifier and it should go 500K

The 5r110 trans is pretty solid also.

Bullitproof Diesel makes & sells an egr cooler that will cure that problem forever.

Keeep the truck, I looked at a 12 Lariet single wheel 4x4, $63K. I'm keeping my 99 7.3.

About 14 months of pymts & ins on a new one will make your engine run forever.

Like I said Keep it, just do a few preventative things and keep smiling. Good luck.


Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
cooling mist water inj, DP tunes, 4" turbo back exh sys
trucool trans cooler added
08 Arctic Cat Prowler 700XTX

rhagfo

Portland, OR

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Joined: 07/06/2012

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Good Sam RV Club Member

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Posted: 07/06/12 01:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is all about maintenance!
Keep up on all of the normal maintenance and they will go a long time.
My 01 Dodge 2500 Cummins is getting ready to roll 252,000 miles and still drives great.
The body doesn't reflect the miles at all and it does a fine job of pulling our 05 Copper Canyon 33' 5er. We run about 18,500# GCVW when camping.


Russ & Paula
The Beagles Hedwig and Precious.
Portland, OR.
2001 Dodge 2500 4X4, 5.9 Cummins 5 speed, 3.55 gears, Pacbrake PRXB, DS Power Puck,Bilstien 5100's, 273,000 miles.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"


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