Sorry I didn't bother to reply originally. We have so many "experts" here to tell others how to do it that I just figured it would get handled.
I do this for a living, so I'm kinda burned out on things with wheels by the time I get on here. I also get tired of being bagged on here for my unpopular professional methods. Doing the best/safest way possible within reason....which is usually more expensive, time consuming, and requires tools that the average Joe doesn't have.
Most of us here are trying to do it ourselves and save a few $$$ for extra chrome and beer! I don't really fit the bill here. The way I would do it for my clients has to last forever without maintainable and not cause an accident is not the same way and guy could do his own accepting his own liability. I have good insurance, but $3mil really doesn't go as far as it used to.....
I'm a pro and am a little out of touch with what you guys at home are dealing with. It has been a long time since I built a differential or did a spring over in a gravel driveway in the rain without the best tools for the job! LOL!
I have always used 2X4X.250" for a job like this. What is the width of your main beam? Is it tube, angle, channel, or Ibeam? Looks like tube?
I have always used 2X4X.250" for a job like this. What is the width of your main beam? Is it tube, angle, channel, or Ibeam? Looks like tube?
The factory subframe is 4x4x1/4" custom bent channel for to aft 7' long. Width about 77" outside.. 2x4x1/4" steel tube side to side connecting them.
At this point I'm ready to re torque the bolts after a bit of road time if needed. But I just dont see two 5200# axles flattening a 4x4x1/4 steel tube.. The axle bolts are drilled 1" from the edge..
I see why you selected the 4x4 tube now. All of the trailer I have done have had 2" wide beams.
You could be right about the tube holding up, but I was always leery with the twisting forces applied to those Torflex beams.
The bolts will most certainly come loose over time though. That is a long space with tube sandwiched in between.......Time will tell. As long as you used locking nuts, at least nothing will fall off.
Crazy Cooter wrote: I see why you selected the 4x4 tube now. All of the trailer I have done have had 2" wide beams.
The bolts will most certainly come loose over time though. That is a long space with tube sandwiched in between.......Time will tell. As long as you used locking nuts, at least nothing will fall off.
This 4" lift is a temporary thing. It makes my rear ramp to high to get my custom street bike in. But right now I'm going to Colorado and hitting a few fire roads with the dirt bike for a week..
When I remove the 4x4 after the trip I can install the insert tubes, but I doubt I can reach in 12" from the end to weld the far tube. And I can only weld maybe 1/2 or one side of the tube
Crazy Cooter wrote: My feeling is that the Torflex axles are cross members in themselves. Its only 4", why bother?
I agree. The axles are the cross members
Back on the wheels where it should be..
* This post was
edited 06/28/12 07:33pm by rerod *
Inserting the tubes isn't that hard when they are being fabbed. Drill a hole at the O.D. of the tube, which is slightly larger than the bolt, then cut the tube longer than needed, insert and weld from the outside, getting good penetration. Once welded cut flush with a cut off wheel. The tube is there really to prevent crushing. I've used this method on some things I've helped fab. like our '26 T roadster.
nayther wrote: Inserting the tubes isn't that hard when they are being fabbed. Drill a hole at the O.D. of the tube, which is slightly larger than the bolt, then cut the tube longer than needed, insert and weld from the outside, getting good penetration. Once welded cut flush with a cut off wheel. The tube is there really to prevent crushing. I've used this method on some things I've helped fab. like our '26 T roadster.
Makes sense.. Thanks for clarifying that nayther. I will install those tube inserts sometime this fall after my trip if I notice the torque loosening..
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