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Open Roads Forum  >  Toy Haulers  >  Toy Haulers

 > HELP! Ramp too high

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Doughboy12

Minnesota

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Posted: 06/27/12 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fj12ryder wrote:

dedmiston wrote:

OK fj12ryder and Doughboy12. Shake hands and move on.



* This post was edited 06/27/12 12:05pm by Doughboy12 *





KMx2

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Posted: 06/28/12 08:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like your ramp door could use some more traction. Doesn't it have the sandpaper stuff on it? Maybe you could add some outdoor stair treads or a strip of expanded metal or something.


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captjohn57

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Posted: 07/03/12 10:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I bought the 8" version of these to load my Saturn Sky in my 3905 Voltage. The tail gate rests on the ledge on the ramp. Also very light.
http://www.discountramps.com/trailer-ramps.htm


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Dirtclods

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Posted: 07/04/12 07:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

http://www.discountramps.com/trailer-ramps.htm

Billieg2

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Posted: 07/04/12 10:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is a great Idea but at $292 a pair I think i can build one out of plywood for under $25. I like the way it goes under the tailgate. Thanks for the idea.




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RickSo

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Posted: 07/04/12 11:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I see a lot of ramp door extensions on many trailers loading race cars made from wood and checkerplate.




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Posted: 07/04/12 11:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2009flhx wrote:

Hi to all,
I just purchased my first toy hauler--a Raptor 30FS. I find that the ramp angle is too steep.
What are my options in changing ramp angle?
Has anyone had this issue?


"Exciting" barely describes the 1st time I ran the Wing into our Fuzion - very steep & very worrysome for an old goat nearing 70. Backing out was even more of an adventure...the tires slip on the ramp.

Get a couple of milk crates to raise the ramp, one on each side, that may be enough for you. If not, build it up with 2x blocks or an additional milk crate to get it to a comfortable height. A 6-8' ramp that has slots for thin plywood will be easier to ride over than the ramp cross-members, and you'll have someplace to put your feet without worrying about stepping thru the holes. You can make the plywood fairly non-slip by painting it with boat deck paint, has a fine-grain sandpaper-like finish. Better, use good enamel, sprinkle sand over it when still wet, brush excess off when dry, 2d coat of paint and you'll have a non-slip surface even in the rain.

buddyhammond

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Posted: 07/04/12 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OldGreaser wrote:

No problems going in but on some terrain I lose the ability to touch my feet down while backing off the ramp. Usually I'm looking around for some type of rise in the ground to help me out.

I am 5'8" and load a Valkyrie Interstate in our Raptor 300. To avoid the "no touch zone" I remove the seat from the Valk before going up or down the ramp. (It makes it easier to get the front wheel out of the chock too.)

captjohn57

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Posted: 07/04/12 10:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Billieg2 wrote:

That is a great Idea but at $292 a pair I think i can build one out of plywood for under $25. I like the way it goes under the tailgate. Thanks for the idea.



My set only weighs 26# total. I couldn't see how I could've built a set as strong and as light. My car is a bit heavier than the bikes. Just throwing ideas out there. They are worth every penny to me.

joebedford

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Posted: 07/05/12 07:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Billieg2 wrote:

That is a great Idea but at $292 a pair I think i can build one out of plywood for under $25. I like the way it goes under the tailgate. Thanks for the idea.

The only problem with these is that there is no way to level them side-to-side if the ground is uneven. My ramp / door is very weak and needs to be supported evenly - any twist and I expect it will break.


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