ljedik
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Any advice on replacing this myself? I like to think I'm fairly mechacically inclined, but this look complicated with the spring, shocks and all. eny vetrans out there wanna give me some advice? I'm gonna go buy a Chiltons today to see what direction that could give me. this is a 79 Chevy Midas. Chevy Van chasis.
Larry & Jen
1999 StarCraft TravelStar 17ck
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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I would have a shop do it as you will need an alignment after spring installation. You may need more parts. Let the experts deal with that nasty spring.
Bud
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toolman1
Cerritos, CA.
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WHEW! That's gonna be a monsterous undertaking. I manage a front end and frame repair shop, and to attempt to do this in a driveway would be foolish! You are gonna need a torch to cut off the frozen/rusted bolts. I would give a very close inspection, to all 4 control arms. If this one is rusted thru, the others can't be in much better shape. I recommend replacing all 4 control arms (complete) with bushings and ball joints, and front shocks. Before tearing into it, check the inner and outer tie rods, center link, pitman arm and draglink, and swaybar end links, and frame rail mounting bushings.
Not a job I would want to tackle in my driveway, for sure.
See ya out there!!
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ljedik
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I'm just imagining the labor cost I would be charged. Owning this RV is expensive enough and my wife isn't exactly in love with the idea of throwing money at a 32 yrea old vehicle. But I enjoy this as a fun hobby of mine. we are kinda grounded right now because of this and can't go anywhere unless we want to use the old tent and air mattress.
I think I could tackle this job, rent some spring tensioners from the local auto store. I could always have the alignment done after which would be a minimal cost.
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navegator
San Diego CA.
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If you do not have the proper tools to deal with that sring, you could end badly hurt, there are special tools to compress that sring.
Those tools cost a lot more than the cheap ones from Harbour Freight, and do not bend or brake when you need them most.
I have personal knowledge of individuals that have been badlly hurt with this tipe of repair, specially on a driveway!
Let someone that has the correct tools and know how do this, the ammount of rust present tells me that a heating torch is going to be needed.
You are going to need a powerfull impact gun to dislodge some of those bolts, all you need is a rusted part braking and that spring decompressing on your head, you don't want a severe injury and hospital stay.
Do take the unit to a profecional, it is cheaper in the long run.
Navegator
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pauldub
North of Seattle
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I think one of the biggest problems will be dealing with rusted fasteners. You're going to need to use the blue wrench on this one. I'd be pretty concerned about many other parts that might almost be rusted through. If you have to pay someone to do the work, it would likely cost more than the motor home is worth. I think your choices are to do it yourself or find another RV.
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1995brave
San Antonio, TX
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You don't need a spring tensioner. The weight of the RV will keep the spring from going anywhere. Jack up the front of the RV and put it on jack stands. Remove the wheel, brakes,shocks,linkage, etc. But not the spindle. put the jack under the control arm and jack it up. Remove the ball joint nut and knock it loose. Slowly lower the jack and the spring will come down without jumping out at you. Do the reverse to install. Some of the folks with the P-30 chassis do this when they replace the airbag in the spring.
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crawford
Dandridge Tenn.
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1995 brave a month full and he is right. Get some penetrate oil and soak for a few days before and go at it. Oh no cussing LOL
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Tarheel Traveler
Waco, Tx
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What 1995 brave said x2.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Does it need only one control arm? What about the other three and the frame itself? This is some heavy duty rust.
The guys above are correct in general. Bear in mind, though, that sometimes the spring extends longer than the distance to the spring pocket once the arm is dropped. In that case you'd need a spring compressor.
If the control arms use rubber bushings, replace them all, and when you reinstall the control arms, don't tighten the bushing bolts till the chassis is settled at driving height, wheels on the ground.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
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