I have a 1977 Triple e 1600 and I'm having some lighting issues. My one interior light does not come on on 12v, and when I plug into 110v and switch the invertor to 110v, the light comes on dim for a few seconds then pops one of the two 10amp breakers and the other light in the trailer stays on. Any suggestions which way to go with this?
I'm confused...
The inverter will change your battery power to 110VAC....so you don't really plug it into 110VAC.
Now, could it be that this particular light, is a 110VAC light, that a P/O had installed for more light than the normal 12VDC bulbs put out? And if so, could it be that your batteries are weak, so don't put enough out through the Inverter, to give you much more than dim light?
If you meant Converter (converts 110VAC into 12VDC) was what you plugged in, such as on shore power, and then the you have the problem, I'm sorta lost. Are these lights all on the same circuit? Does one switch work them all, but only one is having a problem?
You may just want to check the connections...after all, it's a 35 year old RV
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Sorry let me clarify, it is a convertor 110vac to 12vdc, the lights are all 12v, they have their own switch(just a simple dome light). The convertor has two 10Amp breakers and only one is popping, turning off the one light, and there is another breaker box that the covertor goes into that has the main breakers for the trailer, and the lights seem to be on the same breaker there and it isn't popping.
sapper1313 wrote: Sorry let me clarify, it is a convertor 110vac to 12vdc, the lights are all 12v, they have their own switch(just a simple dome light). The convertor has two 10Amp breakers and only one is popping, turning off the one light, and there is another breaker box that the covertor goes into that has the main breakers for the trailer, and the lights seem to be on the same breaker there and it isn't popping.
Things are still a little sketchy here.
I suspect that what you are calling a converter is really a power center with the converter built into it.
Is there a battery at all? (Find it)
If there is, disconnect it for a test.
Does the light stay on now?
If yes..
It may be causing the breaker to open because it is trying to charge at more than the breaker can handle.
Reconnect the battery and leave the lights off.
Leave the unit powered from shore for a long time, find a meter and check the battery. After a couple hours, disconnect shore power and see if the lights work.
After charging, the battery voltage should be greater than 12.6. If you turn a light on it should drop to ~12.6 very fast and then hang there. If this doesn't happen, come back and tell us what it does do.
Matt
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A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
sounds like a short on that one light circuit
maybe that light fixture is bad, either the socket or the switch
or a critter has chewed some wiring
start by taking that light apart
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As a suggestion, take below "typical" RV wiring diagram and re-draw for your unique trailer. Thus, allowing an understanding of both 110/120V and 12V systems within your trailer. With custom diagram (for your unique trailer) in hand, simply remove the onboard 12V battery and try the 12v lights, turn other 12V items off and try the 12V lights again. Perhaps the dimming lights is because the 110/120V -> 12V Converter is too weak? Or, perhaps someone accidentaly pulled the safety pin on its emergency brake's "break away" switch? Thus, creating 12V dimming lights as well. For me, I draw it out. Then, try different little tests to troubleshoot.
Note: If 110/120V breakers are tripping or 12V fuses are blowing, its either circuit overload or a short in the circuit.
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