My refrigerator is acting goofy again. Before I left for Utah while in Wisconsin it seemed to operate just fine. During the trip out here after about three days on the road one morning it woke us up to a alarm telling us it was too warm in the refrigerator. I turned it off turned it back on and put it on LP and it got cold again. I then got the Salt Lake City and it was okay until all of a sudden one morning I wake up and look in the refrigerator and it's 55° inside. This is after days and days of being cold enough to make ice. It will cool during the hot days and suddenly in the cool evening seems to almost turn off or at least stop working. I purchased a dinosaur replacement board. I have always had good luck with dinosaur boards they have always solved any problem I've ever had with any of my RV furnaces or refrigerators. This time didn't work. The unit seems capable of cooling, maybe not exceptionally but it still makes ice even in the hot weather 103 degrees. Except when it decides to not work at all when it is cool outside in the evening (70 degrees). I must turn it off and turn it back on and it cools again. It's awfully hard for it to catch up again when it's 100° outside. Is there another board somewhere or something I am not seeing?
Roger D. Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
* This post was
edited 07/09/12 05:33pm by an administrator/moderator *
What code states it is too warm???? Never heard of that code unless you meant NO CO. I will bet your rear cooling fans are NOT on. Can you hear them? If NOT that is why the freezer will freeze ice but not cool the bottom. Doug
I would venture your heating element is failing since gas operation is working correctly. Check page 15 of the service manual from herhere.e.
Though I hate working on the 1200 series, the fridge is able to tell you quite a bit about what is going on. But, accessing diagnostics is different for several ranges of serial numbers. Get the manual, check the heating element first. Measure resistance between the two leads, as well as each lead to the element case (should be no continuity here...). Between the leads, you should see about 63 or so ohms, give or take 10%.
And while you are behind the fridge with a meter, set your meter for dc volts and measure the DC input to the fridge at the wire block. With converter on, should see higher than 13. While still keeping leads on the dc wire block, switch meter over to AC volts. Most switch mode converters have very low ripple, just a few hundred millivolts if that much. Older linear and ferro-resonant types may have excessive ripple riding on top of the DC. There should not be more than a volt of ac measured at the DC terminals. If so, your converter is probably having issues and might even be the source of your fridge troubles.