gijoecam
Midwest
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Joined: 07/22/2011
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I just did all four of mine a couple weeks ago. They just weren't up to snoff and never felt quite right even with the gain turned up all the way on the controller. The swap was relatively simple: Four nuts (use a ratcheting box wrench for the tight clearances) and two wires. I didn't bother turning the drums as they all ran true, and they will glaze right back over the first time they get hot anyways. I also had to replace the wiring that links front and rear as well as side to side together as the wire's insulation was all cracked and the copper inside was black instead of shiny.
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CampingN.C.
North Carolina
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Joined: 11/05/2004
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That was something I was wondering as well, rather to replace the drums or not. I don't see much need if they're not warped or out of round.
1999 Suburban 454/ 4:10 (GAS HAWG)
2000 Skyline Nomad 3010
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dadechil
Georgia
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Joined: 05/31/2009
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CampingN.C. wrote:That was something I was wondering as well, rather to replace the drums or not. I don't see much need if they're not warped or out of round.
The problem is , the drum opening can only be so big before performance degrades to the point where it is unsafe. Unlike automotive applications where the manufacturer says said drum can be 11.75 inches across the middle and still be safe to use ( as example). Trailer companies do not currently divulge this info.( although some people say that" If scoring or other wear is greater than .090" on the diameter, the drum must be replaced. In a case where no min safe operating thickness or opening is given you always replace the drum/rotor at the same time as the friction material. ( This is what BMW does they dont rec: machining drums/rotors at all) So if you reuse a drum that is round, it may work fine until A) the shoes wear to the point that they no longer contact the drum.
B) the drum wears away (and they do) to the point that the shoes cannot contact the metal surface.
Both can have the same catastrophic results. Especially considering the low relative cost of the kits that include the drums.
I am the self proclaimed King of rigging something to work, but when it comes to brakes I take no shortcuts. Nor do I recommend that you do either for I may be the one you run into when your trailer brakes fail..
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gijoecam
Midwest
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dadechil wrote:CampingN.C. wrote:That was something I was wondering as well, rather to replace the drums or not. I don't see much need if they're not warped or out of round.
The problem is , the drum opening can only be so big before performance degrades to the point where it is unsafe. Unlike automotive applications where the manufacturer says said drum can be 11.75 inches across the middle and still be safe to use ( as example). Trailer companies do not currently divulge this info.( although some people say that" If scoring or other wear is greater than .090" on the diameter, the drum must be replaced. In a case where no min safe operating thickness or opening is given you always replace the drum/rotor at the same time as the friction material. ( This is what BMW does they dont rec: machining drums/rotors at all) So if you reuse a drum that is round, it may work fine until A) the shoes wear to the point that they no longer contact the drum.
B) the drum wears away (and they do) to the point that the shoes cannot contact the metal surface.
Both can have the same catastrophic results. Especially considering the low relative cost of the kits that include the drums.
I am the self proclaimed King of rigging something to work, but when it comes to brakes I take no shortcuts. Nor do I recommend that you do either for I may be the one you run into when your trailer brakes fail..
Trailer companies do, in fact, divulge that spec. In the case of Dexter 10 inch brakes, the words "maximum diameter 10.09 inches" is molded right into the casting of the drum. I measured mine and they were a couple of thousandths under 10 inches and worn smooth, not grooved or gouged.
If the drum wears away to the point that the shoes are no longer making contact (which would take several sets of brake shoes to do), and you have not adjusted them to maintain proper contact , them that is your own fault. If you have the money to spend and it let's you sleepbetter at night, then by all means, replace them. But there is no need to replace the drums if the old ones are not worn out.
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Howard2
Gordon Pa
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Joined: 09/28/2006
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I had A boat trailer with surge brakes .
Checked the brakes ,needed new brake lining .
I took the old shoes to my auto parts store .
Laid them on the counter and said "match these "
In no time he came ouy of the supply room with A box,and said "Ford shoes"
They served for many years and were still working when I sold the Boat .
Howard
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jimw606
Morehead, Ky.
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Joined: 10/23/2007
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I bought my brakes from www.easternmarine.com/ for less than I could by the shoes.
You get the backing plate, shoes, magnets, etc. Just 4 or 5 bolts and wire them up. JUST BE SURE TO GET GOOD WIRE CONNECTIONS.
Might want to check it out.
By the way, they were DEXTERS
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CND SuperCrew
SK, Canada
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Joined: 02/11/2005
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I thought I would be replacing my brakes after 25-30k km of towing. Was I surprised after pulling the drums to have a look and repack the bearings:
Brake photos
Ron, Lori and Autumn
TV 2012 F150 loaded XLT EB SuperCrew 7700GVWR Maxtow 6.5'
TT 2008 Jayflight G2 23FB/ Equal-i-zer WD
2013 Colorado bound
2012- 4000km, 28 nights for the season 
2011- OR & CA done, 6800km in 3 weeks
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F-TROUP
VISALIA, CALIF
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Joined: 05/13/2007
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Try here, I went this route.. etrailer.com
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MitchF150
Washington, the State
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Joined: 07/13/2002
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Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:There is a brake article in the latest Trailer Life about changing over to hydraulic over electric, but no prices that I could see.
I just saw that too. I think I saw something about $580 per axle? Probably did not include the line kit that they said had to be purchased separately. They put it on a pretty good size 5th wheel with 8 lug hubs too.. Nice setup for sure. My Dad went that route on his 5th wheel. Only 6 lug hubs on his, and I think he said it ran about $1200. (don't quote me on that!) 
When I did mine, I did the new backing plate route. My 10" assemblies were only $40 each. That was the whole ball of wax. Remove 4 bolts and cut the wires to the old ones. Put the new ones on and connect the wires again.
I didn't do the drums at this time. They seemed fine and a year later, still seem fine. Took a little bit of extra boost to 'seat' the shoes in, but now they are great!
Just what worked for me!
Good luck with your project!
Mitch
*Anything I post is for entertainment purposes only and what usually works for me.. Your Mileage May Vary..
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stitchinsue
Central Pa
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Joined: 07/05/2011
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So trailer brakes are not as easy to replace ascar brakes I'm guessing?
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