I have a 2007 Everest with Mor Ryde suspension. The rubber pieces between the springs on both sides are cracking on the bottoms of both pieces. We are planning a trip and the shipping time from Mor Ryde will not give us enough time to get these things installed at a shop. Most of the shops are 2-3 weeks out on scheduling any work.
Am I going to be okay on this trip coming up. The cracking is only on the bottom of those rubber things. It looks like they might be pretty critical if they should let go, but I don't know how much I should be worried about that happening in the near future, or if I have time to take the trip and have it fixed when we return.
Does anyone have knowledge of these systems and if I'm okay for this trip coming up? Is there a point where it gets dangerous?
Thanks in advance, Tim
* This post was
edited 07/17/12 12:14pm by TnTtravelers *
Tim and Tina (kudo too)
Livin' good, while the livin's good!
2005 Ford F350, 4x4, Crew Cab, Short box
2007 Everest 295TS 5th Wheel, Superglide hitch
Firestone Air Suspension System
TST tire pressure mntr system
I had Mor Ryde suspension in my new 89 Pace Arrow 34 ft MH. They were replaced 3 times under warranty by the time I had 8,000 miles on my MH. I called a company that made and custom installed springs on semi trucks to see if they would custom install standard springs under that MH. NOPE! Too much liability. I ended up selling that MH just because of the Mor Ryde suspension. I am surprised Mor Ryde is still in business after building that suspension system. It was a very expensive lesson for me. They sagged, the rear of the MH bounced like a vehicle with no shocks. Just over all bad design and concept of how to make springs. JMHO.
Wow, I searched the internet last night for complaints about morryde and couldn't find much at all. Mostly praises. I was a little surprised at that as I'm a little miffed that this job needs to be done in only 5 years! Let alone 3 times under warranty... If this suspension system requires regular changing of parts to keep it safe you'd think they'd design it where it could be done without heavy lift jacking, disconnecting springs and easy enough to do in your driveway. At least I think that is what is required, someone correct me if I'm assuming too much. I wonder how much the RV repair shop is going to hit me on for labor to change these things? Over the years I can see how this will be an expensive feature to have on my trailer. Sheesh, diesel is expensive enough, then throw this in.
If you have this style Mor/ryde suspension look at this link. Shear spring replacement criteria
It doesn't show conditions 3 and 4 for some reason, but I hope this helps.
Thank you, that helps a lot. I think my cracks are only 1/4 inch deep, but they are multiple and span all the way across the rubber spring. They also are more webbed rather than a single split. I dunno, I'm gonna send pics to morryde to see if it needs replacement or not.
Just spoke with an RV tech and sent pictures of my "shear springs". He said that they were still usable but should be probably changed next year. Good news, now we can focus on important things.
Some helpful tips that may be of use to others here:
- The reason the shear springs deteriorate (according to this tech) is from non-use of the RV, when sitting.
- To aid in preserving the shear springs, if you have to let the RV sit, is applying 100% silicone spray before letting is sit. He said that applying it now would make it deteriorate faster at this point but prior to cracking it helps preserve the rubber.
- The wet bolt kit that you can purchase when ordering new shear springs is a very good idea and when R&Ring the shear springs is a good time to install the WB kit. The wet bolt kit allows you to grease the spring shackles during RV maintenance without disassembling. This will prolong the life of your shackles and bolts etc.