Bob n Humble
Humble, Texas
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Good morning everyone.I have a 1996 Pace Arrow 34ft. Gas Motorhome I have a long and a short explanation of my problem. So I guess I will just start with the short one. I thought I was having coach battery problems because I had no power to anything in the coach. So I tried charging the batteries. Still no luck. Like a dummy I went and purchased 2 new 6 volt batteries. Still no power. The Battery disconnect switch is on. The breakers are not tripped. There are some other issues that have happened but I'm trying to keep this short. I figured I would start with this and if I need to go into full explanation mode, I will
Thanks in Advance
Bob
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rk911
Wheaton IL
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Joined: 05/30/2004
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do you have the 6-volt batteries wired properly (in series, not in parallel)? were the old batteries 12v or 6v?
73,
rich, n9dko
www.bananaboatbytes.com
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wolfe10
Texas
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If your disconnect switch powers a SOLENOID, the solenoid could be bad or is not receiving power from the switch.
With this type of disconnect, one large lug will always have battery voltage.
The other large lug (to house) will have the same voltage when the switch supplies power to the SENSE wire/terminal of the solenoid.
Locate the solenoid. Check voltage at the large terminals. If no power at the "other" large lug when the switch is on, remove the small sense wire and use a jumper (small is OK, as you are talking about only one amp) from the large lug with voltage to the sense terminal. If you don't hear a click and have voltage at the other large lug, the solenoid is bad.
Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
EX: 1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi,
There is a fuse or automatic breaker near the battery bank. These can fail. Check with a meter.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.
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Bob n Humble
Humble, Texas
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rk911 yes they are 6 volt batteries I replaced them 1 at a time to be sure I did it right. Wolfe my remote switchs are locatyed in a copartment above the entry door 1 switch for the engine & 1 fort he coach. I have no problem with the engine switch. would this mean that there would be 2 different solenoids. As I sit here and think about this I dont think I heard the click that I usually hear. The Coach is not at the house so I can't check today.
Bob
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Bob n Humble
Humble, Texas
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Pianotuna that was mentioned to me but I looked and didn't find a switch or fuse link Maybe I just overlooked it any other hints where to look. Like i mentioned in above post my coach is not at the house. so I will to try everyone info later.
Thanks
Bob
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crasster
Dallas
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Do you have any lights glowing on your inverter (or fan spinning?) Is there any way for you to verify you have power going to it? Also is your 6V wired in series (positive to negative) to get 12V?
4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi,
Follow the positive battery cable toward the RV. Not having a fuse or circuit breaker there would be fairly unusual.
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RLS7201
Some Where
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Bob n Humble wrote:Pianotuna that was mentioned to me but I looked and didn't find a switch or fuse link Maybe I just overlooked it any other hints where to look. Like i mentioned in above post my coach is not at the house. so I will to try everyone info later.
Thanks
Bob
No fuse or circuit breaker between the battery and the disconnect switch (relay). The battery cable goes directly to the disconnect switch, located in the battery control center. There is a 3 amp fuse on the circuit board, in the BCC that supplies power to the switches above the entrance door.
Richard
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Kiwi_too
Western, WA
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Joined: 05/13/2003
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I just replaced both my batteries and converter. The batteries were 6 years old but the real problem was the converter. The converter became intermittent in output. Even though the batteries were weak, I believe the converter was what finally killed them. The converter finally quit all together. That is how I finally found the problem. The symptoms were of brown outs. The converter did not provide enough constant power to charge the batteries. The batteries got weak and later the converter would kick back in.
Get yourself a digital volt meter with probes. Throw the battery disconnect. You will need the batteries disconnected from the converter to determine if the converter is producing a charge. If the batteries are still connected, you will get 12v feedback to the converter. It took me several tests to figure this out. BTW, if you have a 12v light on and you disconnect the batteries and converter is on, you should get an immediate indication of converter condition. Lights bright means you are getting good 12v power to 12v system. Lights dim or go off means low or no power from converter.
With batteries disconnected, test the power at the battery terminals and the converter out posts. If you have 13+ coming out your converter is working fine. If not, then check the circuit breaker (CB) for the converter in the 120 panel.. Is it tripped? Then check the fuses and/or CB on the converter. Push/reset the CB if tripped. Test the power at the 120v socket where the converter is plugged in.
p.s. I forgot. You need to make sure the 12v +/- & ground are connected well. You may need to trace the lines as well.
* This post was
edited 07/29/12 11:56am by Kiwi_too *
May God bless your travels
Me, The Wonderful Wife 
and two Spastic Border Collies 
U.S. Army Retired 
2004 Coachmen Aurora, 3480DS
2007 Saturn Outlook, FROG
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