Finally got the dealer to setup my new Jay Flight 26BH with the new 1200 lbs bars. I had 800 lbs bars and this trailer will have between 800 and 900 lbs of hitch weight. Since Reese doesn't make 1000 lbs trunnion bars, I had to go up to 1200 lbs bars.
Finally got the service guys to adjust the system to the same link I had the smaller 19BH, which used the 800 lbs bars. They had to tilt the head forward to accomplish this. Previously it was only at 4 links from the the cam bracket and Reese states a minimum of 5 links, so I had them tilt the head forward to give us another link.
So it was just like I had it with the 19BH except the head tilted down/forward for the heavier hitch weight.
Trying to get it into my narrow driveway and the damn thing snapped the socket off of the head. Cracked the steel right off. I'm guessing this was due to the increased force needed by the heavier hitch weight.
I looked at the setup and it looked good and as Reese states it should.
Well anyhow, finally got the trailer in after some tornados went through the area while I was parked on my street with a broken socket.
Luckily I didn't see the Tornados the forcast said were there or had any trees or large limbs fall on the truck with me in it or the new camper. I did think the 70 mph strait line winds were going to blow me over into my ditch though.
Anyhow got it back into the driveway and now have to take the hitch head into the service department and figure out what we are going to do.
They sell the Strait Line but don't sell many anymore as they push the newer Blue Ox.
I'm really a fan of the Dual Cam Sway control but not if I have to worry about it failing and breaking. I know there's many here who had it fail and break also. Not much of an equalizer brand fan but what about this Blue Ox brand. What are the goods and bads about it.
BTW, here's a pic of my setup. It's from my signature pic so it's not the highest resolution. I did have to down rez my sig so it's not as bad as you would think.
Thanks for any insight.
2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH
29'1" bumper to hitch, 8' wide, 6'9" ceiling, 5050# unloaded and ~6500# loaded.
Bought Sept '12
Having a little trouble figuring out what "socket" you're talking about. Also, tilting the hitchhead forward (toward the front of the truck) will lessen the amount of force on the bars not increase it I'm sure I'm just misunderstanding your post.
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR - 2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles) 2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
Let me restate that then. Tilting the hitch head down or toward the front of the trailer so that the bars are more angled down creating more force with the same number of links.
I have the trunnion bars. The socket on the head is the area that holds the trunnion bar head end or T shaped end.
I cracked off the top half of the socket clean where the socket could no longer hold the T end in now.
Trunnion T end
Left and right sockets for the T end on the hitch head
eric james wrote: I'd make a call to Reese on Monday morning. They are pretty good about replacing their products.
Looking at you hitch set up, I'd recomment 6 links under tension instead of 4. I think you need more clearance between your bars and the dual cam.
The dealer originally had it at 4 and I had them put it to 5 links. I wanted it at more links but they said that was the best they could do. The pic is at 5 links but I guess it's hard to see all of the links since the tank cover is on top of the latch.
The dealer is going to do something as they want me to bring back the broken head.
The following Towing forum "sticky" link is a great reference for dialing in a Reese HP Dual Cam WDH. There are a couple of potential "binding" conditions that can surface, and can very from one TV/TT combination to another.
Based on your photo, it's possible that during a TV turn the side of the spring bar came into contact with the Cam Arm Yoke thus placing additional force on the ball mount socket. It appears that tilting the ball mount "toward" the TT a little more and adding another chain link "under tension" may provide some additional clearance (assuming that proper weight has been returned to the TV's front suspension with this adjustment).
I would take a copy of the "sticky" link with you when you go back to the RV dealer. Some TT's with a top mounted ball coupler dialing in a Reese HP Dual Cam with trunnion style spring bars can be a little challenging (component and ground clearances), especially with Jayco's 6" tall TT A-frame. In many cases a round bar WDH is a little easier with top mount ball couplers when using the HP Dual Cam.
I don't know if the HP Dual Cam on your new TT is from a prior TT (which is fine).., but if it was installed as "new" with your new 2012 Jayco I'm surprised they didn't provide you with the latest version of the HP Dual Cam (new enhancements minimize some clearance issues).
You need more rearward tilt of the ball mount so you can get more links under tension.
Having more links under tension will increase the angle between the WD bar and the cam arm.
If you cannot get more rearward tilt, you could install a high-rise ball and lower the ball mount on the shank to get more links under tension.
Now I understand. Reese has a lifetime warranty on their hitch parts. I'd give their distributor a call and have them send a replacement part to you. I use round bars on my trailer and once broke out the "notch" that holds the round bar into the hitchhead and I broke it while 2,000 miles from home. they air freighted a replacement to a local dealer and I picked it up the next day and was back on the highway again.
Good luck / Skip
eric james wrote: I'd make a call to Reese on Monday morning. They are pretty good about replacing their products.
Looking at you hitch set up, I'd recomment 6 links under tension instead of 4. I think you need more clearance between your bars and the dual cam.
The dealer originally had it at 4 and I had them put it to 5 links. I wanted it at more links but they said that was the best they could do. The pic is at 5 links but I guess it's hard to see all of the links since the tank cover is on top of the latch.
The dealer is going to do something as they want me to bring back the broken head.
The best they could do? Well we see where that mentality has landed you and them. Now they're going to work on your hitch all over again.
As recommended read the hitch set up sticky here and know how to do it yourself if the dealer can't dial it in correctly.
I'm sure I'm just misunderstanding your post.
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