C.B.
APPLETON WI USA
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Joined: 12/15/2003
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My refridge quit working on ac. I switch to gas and it works fine.
I turned it off and let it warm up inside and turned it on electric again and it cooled down to zero in the freezer and 34 degrees in the fridge. I checked it 24hrs later and it was 60 degrees in both. Switched to gas again and it works great. Installed a new 3308741.002 2-way UniversalPower Module Kit from Dometic yesterday morning and turned it on electric. This morning it was still warm so I switched to gas again and it is cooling down again.
I was told there might be something in the trailer taking voltage away from the fridge so disconnected the 12V source from the trailer and hooked up 12V from a fully charged battery directly to the fridge. That did not change anything.
Suggestions ?
C.B.
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emaav
Oregon
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have you checked the fridge breaker/plug in, if it is like mine the fridge is plugged into an outlet just behind the fridge, you could run an extension cord from your house and plug in just the fridge and see if it works..
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C.B.
APPLETON WI USA
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emaav wrote:have you checked the fridge breaker/plug in, if it is like mine the fridge is plugged into an outlet just behind the fridge, you could run an extension cord from your house and plug in just the fridge and see if it works..
Yup
Checked it with a volt meter and plugged in a trouble light to be sure.
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Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Have you checked the heating element? Basic troubleshooting would be to turn it on AC and measure the power at the outlet, at the fuse on the board, and at the terminals for the heater. Then ohm out the element, should be around 44 ohms.
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outdoor duo
oak harbor, wa
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I have the same model and had the same problem. check the circuit breaker first. make sure you are getting 120vac. next read out the plug for 120vac. if both are present take the cover off the lower control board. its in a black box on the back of the fridge. you will see 2 fuses on it. 1 is for vdc and it is in a vertical position the other is for 120vac and it is in a horizontal position. read both sides of the fuse. if you still have 120vac on both sides of the fuse remove the wire from j8. read the male side for 120vac. if you lose the 120vac on the fuse or at j8 then your board is bad. they cost about $100 and are easy to replace. if you have 120vac on j8 then you have a bad ac heating element. they are relatively easy to replace and can be found on ebay. i hope this helped.
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pkunk
Questa, NM
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Are you plugged in to 120v ?
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C.B.
APPLETON WI USA
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pkunk wrote:Are you plugged in to 120v ?
Yes Sir double checked.
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C.B.
APPLETON WI USA
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outdoor duo wrote:I have the same model and had the same problem. check the circuit breaker first. make sure you are getting 120vac. next read out the plug for 120vac. if both are present take the cover off the lower control board. its in a black box on the back of the fridge. you will see 2 fuses on it. 1 is for vdc and it is in a vertical position the other is for 120vac and it is in a horizontal position. read both sides of the fuse. if you still have 120vac on both sides of the fuse remove the wire from j8. read the male side for 120vac. if you lose the 120vac on the fuse or at j8 then your board is bad. they cost about $100 and are easy to replace. if you have 120vac on j8 then you have a bad ac heating element. they are relatively easy to replace and can be found on ebay. i hope this helped.
Well Paul,I did the check and I have 120V across the fuse and at J8 male stud. I checked the heating element as suggested by Chris with an ohm meter and got around 40 oms.I have a new heating element coming and will install tonight or tomorrow.
I'll be sure to let everyone know if this is the cure.
Thank you to everyone for your help.
C.B.
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Dick A
Spokane
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Moved from General RV'ing forum.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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C.B. wrote:outdoor duo wrote:I have the same model and had the same problem. check the circuit breaker first. make sure you are getting 120vac. next read out the plug for 120vac. if both are present take the cover off the lower control board. its in a black box on the back of the fridge. you will see 2 fuses on it. 1 is for vdc and it is in a vertical position the other is for 120vac and it is in a horizontal position. read both sides of the fuse. if you still have 120vac on both sides of the fuse remove the wire from j8. read the male side for 120vac. if you lose the 120vac on the fuse or at j8 then your board is bad. they cost about $100 and are easy to replace. if you have 120vac on j8 then you have a bad ac heating element. they are relatively easy to replace and can be found on ebay. i hope this helped.
Well Paul,I did the check and I have 120V across the fuse and at J8 male stud. I checked the heating element as suggested by Chris with an ohm meter and got around 40 oms.I have a new heating element coming and will install tonight or tomorrow.
I'll be sure to let everyone know if this is the cure.
Thank you to everyone for your help.
C.B.
1. Heating elements either work or they don't, no part time working. At least I have never seen a 120 element work then quit and then start working again.
2. WHY did you replace the Module Board?
3. Your refer operates the 120 on AUTO with a button to go to LP. IF on Auto and the 120 fuse or Element is bad, the refer will not do anything and will NOT go to LP
4. If on Auto, and you LOSE 120 to the refer, it will go to LP automatically and then COOL, and you will think it worked on 120 that time period. So, what I would do, is run an extension cord from another 120 source to the RV and plug the refer into that source and bypass the RV 120 system and restest on 120.
5. Also, turn the LP OFF at the cutoff valve on the back of the refer and test on Auto. IF you lose that 120, when the refer tries to light on LP it will NOT and the Check light will come on and verify that indeed yoiu were losing 120 at some point. Doug
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