IF, I had to put my life/trust in the advice of anyone in this forum, one, among several, at the top of the list would be Les Adams. Simple as that...keep in mind the 350# hitch limit, and that tells you a gross, loaded, trailer of 3,500# max!
Good luck, and keep asking, you will get there.
*This Message was edited on 02-Aug-02 05:49 PM by Kusani*
I read all about how great the Excursion is to tow with but if you use the 110" plus 4" formula the longest Trailer you can pull with the Excursion is 27 feet.
The 2002 Ford Excursion Fullsize SUV XLT Premium 2WD 4dr SUV (6.8L 10cyl 4A)has a Wheel Base of only 137.1 in. It is rated to pull 10000lbs.
My Supercrew has a Wheel Base of 138.5 in. More than the Excursion. The Excursion is a lot heavier than the Supercrew.
This stuff really gets confusing fast.
2001 Keystone Bobcat 277ebs
2001 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 5.4 2X4
The response from LandRover seems wrong, and it would seem to me that there is a relationship between the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and the ability of the vehicle to resist a lateral force applied at the end of the vehicle.
However, there are two other things to consider. First, the wheelbase is only one issue. Others would be the weights of the respective vehicles, the the overall length and length-to-wheels of the trailer, the nature of the coupling between the vehicles, and so on. For the LandRover, the issue is complicated because of its high center of gravity and the potentially weird coupling you'd get if the trailer started oscillating. Obviously, a wheelbase-derived formula is just a rough rule of thumb that might or might not apply to your combination. Probably better than nothing, but not conclusive either way.
Second, is the question of the formula itself. My trailer guide at home suggests 100" for 20', plus 4" per foot thereafter. The rvorg website suggests (I think, I'm on the road and doing this from memory) 110" plus 4" per foot. Commenters on this website sometimes seem to be in something of a wheelbase arms race, suggesting 113" (as above) and even 116" as the starting point. Although I've seen a couple replies from time to time requesting some authority for or, better yet, some physical principles on which the formulae are based, it's pretty hard to get any objective basis for anyone's views. That may be because the relationships are too complex and all we have are people's informed experience; it may be because those views are just not based on anything. Very frustrating.
Wish I could point to some definitive guidance, but if it's out there, I haven't seen it.
"it's pretty hard to get any objective basis for anyone's views" If I am reading this correctly, then I have to disagree very strongly. There is a wealth of 'objective' information in this forum. There are literally thousands of rv'ers that 'have been, have done that' whom are able to share what works and doesn't work. This advice has saved may people much heartache and many dollars; and will continue to do the same.
I think the 'rub' comes in when sound advice is given which is contrary to what a person 'wants to hear' and then one accuses the giver of the advice of not being 'objective'. However, when several give the same advice, you can usually rest assured their is a sound reason for it. Sure, there is some bias, that is human nature; and humor, manybe poor humor, but humor none-the-less is ocassionaly injected.
Overall, the vast majority of the forum members that give advice, when asked for it, have nothing to gain by sharing their experiences and suggesting what will work and won't work based upon those 'real life'experiences. If one has been in this forum for any length of time, is observant, and has an open mind and just a smigen of common sense, it is not hard to sort out 'reality' from 'fiction' and 'wishful thinking'.
Personally, I thank all the members here that take the time to help us put together, operate, and maintain a safe and enjoyable rv rig.
I would like to make 2 points:
1) The formula for wheelbase determination is 110" WB for the first 20' of trailer, then FOUR (4)additional WB inches for each additional foot of trailer.
2)?Who logically should you believe; the technical department of the company that sold you a car that said WB doen't count - or a bunch experienced of RV'ers that have nothing to gain or lose concerning the advice given to you?
Sorry if I confuse you further - it's time you realize that dealers will tell you whatever they have to to sell the vehicle, and the tech department will probably back up anything they say.
Hank & Pat in New Hampshire wishing you-all safe journeys: Toyota Tundra (V-8, 4wd, 4.75L.,245 hp) Roadmaster Active Suspension; Nash 22H travel trailer, PullRite Hitch, Prodigy Brake Controller.
We would never tow a single axle trailer of significant weight again.
WHEN IN TROUBLE - WHEN IN DOUBT - RUN IN CIRCLES - SCREAM AND SHOUT!
This will add fuel ,we tow a 26' Ultra-lite with our Astro (111" wheelbase if memory serves) we use a wd hitch and a friction plate sway control . So far several trips on winding and windy roads and solid as a rock. True the Ultra-lite is a little lower and narrower and lighter so that might help , but one thing I feel is important in the sway factor is the distance from ball to rear axle , the Astro is a fairly short coupler moment compared to long box truck so that might help . Not saying a longer wheelbase isn't better but from my experience my 12' box 3000 lb pop-up exhibited far more sway tendencies then our 4400 lb 26' travel trailer. I drive with complete feeling of confidence whether passing or being passed by the BIG trucks , just my thoughts and experiences for what it's worth .
Just hours ago I saw an SUV (chev trailblazer) flipped over with his Mallard 20' trailer almost on top of the SUV.
I stopped and talked with the Police and shaken but alive owner. He had been on the road all of 15 min's from home.
Do take the advice of the experienced saftey conscience posters here.
DO VISIT: www.rv.org
You can find all the formula's and reasons behind the formulas concerning SAFE towing and hitching practices. I think you have to join to get into the library, but it is worth it IMO.
43' Travel Supreme w/TrailAir pin box
International 9400 class #8 semi (1 axle removed)
Kyocera/Verizon cell phone and Toshiba laptop to connect to internet
Full time on 2nd year
Kusani -- fair enough. What I meant by "objective" is some set of physical principles to help sort out why some combinations seem to work and others don't. I also get a little worried when I see posts like, "I've been towing an 'x' with a 'y' and I haven't had any problems." As my structures prof used to say, that kind statement is a statistical analysis based on a sample size of one.
I agree with Kusani about taking Les Adams advice as gospel. And I agree with Les totally. Forget the big trailer. You are not going to hear what you want to hear, but what you are hearing will save your lives, and that of anyone else near you on the road when you roll over because your trailer was too long and heavy for the Land Rover. Like the others said, save the reply from them in case you survive, you could get quite a nice settlement from them.
2009 Silverado 2500HD 4X4 C/C/6.0/3.73/Pullrite Super 5th.
2004 Puma 249RBS fifth-wheel bunkhouse.USAF/GULF WAR VET.
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is ocassionaly injected. 
