I definately agree that you don't want to put anti freeze in the fresh water tank
Be more specific. Why shouldn't you put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank? It is non-toxic. This is the reason you use RV/pink anti freeze to begin with - because you can put it in a fresh water system.
Although I don't agree with you, I am interested in your reasoning.
"I definately agree that you don't want to put anti freeze in the fresh water tank."
"Be more specific. Why shouldn't you put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank? It is non-toxic. This is the reason you use RV/pink anti freeze to begin with - because you can put it in a fresh water system. Although I don't agree with you, I am interested in your reasoning."
I'll take a shot at this one. It is next to impossible to "completely" drain most fresh water tanks. It is not difficult to get the lines clear.
Even though RV antifreeze is not harmul if ingested, it doesn't taste a good as fresh water. I can attest to this since I put it in the fresh water tank the first year I winterized. It me took two full days of filling, flushing, draining, and re-filling the fresh water tank to get all of the residue out. Much simpler to simply by-pass the fresh water tank, fill the lines (which puts antifreeze in both the black and grey water tanks as well as in drains). Just use your current water pump to do this by turning a valve. If one doesn't have such valve it is worth the money to get one installed. If the hot water heater isn't bypassed it seems to just take about six extra gallons of antifreeze. Again, it is cost effective to get a bypass installed (or do it yourself).
'94 31 ft. Damon Frontier Flyer
with a 97 Saturn SC2 pushing it
I have never run the "pink" antifreeze in the fresh lines for exactly the reasons given--it takes forever to get the taste out ( I learned from friends mistakes) I use air to blow the lines,open drain on hot water tank, turn bypass valves on water heater. And make sure you operate to toilet to drain water there. I then remove the water filter element and discard, leave all valves open, take sink drains apart (good time to clean out the crud) and then reinstall traps. Lastly put about a cup of RV antifreeze in traps and about 3 cupt in shower drain. Thus providing a seal against ordors. And about a cup in the toilet to keep the valve from sticking. Don"t forget the "low point drains" open them. Using this procedure for 10 years and no problems. Good luck.
I agree with Bob about the air. After using the air first for a couple of years, I then scratched my head and wondered, why do this â€“ Iâ€™m going to follow the air procedure with liquid anyway?
The check valve used to fill the hot water tank will have water in it after draining the tank. Pumping a little antifreeze through it should be considered, then use the hot water tank bypass.
My system also has 4 ft of piping between the fresh water tank and my antifreeze bypass valve, which is just prior to the intake of the water pump. Thus I need a small amount of antifreeze in the tank to pump through that pipe which if not attended to, may freeze. I get this small amount by opening the valve, which is used to fill the tank, then pump from the bottle a few oz of fluid into the tank. Then closing the tank fill valve and antifreeze bypass valve, I pump that little amount through the pipe and into the system. Next I open the antifreeze bypass valve and a hot water valve and pump a little through the intake valve on the hot water tank mentioned above. Now bypass the hot water tank and proceed with the rest.
That was a good a procedure description as there can be. My MH uses about 2-1/2 gals. I don't use any air. My only additional advice is to disconnect the water line from the ice maker if you have one and let it cycle two or three times.
Frank (and Pat) FitzGerald
Just North (15 mi.) of Boston
RexAir and Saturn Toad
No Kids or Pets ['ceptin' Pat] on board
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
If you don't put the anti freeze into the lines you will need to put bleach water into everything when you de-winterize as the mold and crud has a chance to grow. If you think blowing the lines out removes ALL the water, it won't and there will be enough moisture to let the mold, slime, etc grow very well inside the tank and pipes.
I do mine like a lot of the others but I don't blow it out with air first. I don't see what the reason is for the air. When you run the anti-freeze through all the faucets and toilet (after the water heater is drained and bypassed, fresh water tank drained, low points drained etc,) all the lines will be full of antifreeze so why blow it out first?? Incidently I don't put the anti freeze in the fresh water tank, I use the T off of the water pump.
I'd certainly like to know why the air first, maybe I'm missing something I should be doing
Catty and Bob
2001 Flair 25F
Proud to be an American