A rather belated reply to an old thread, but I noticed that Plano has several different "High Altitude Main Jets" in their online parts list for the EU2000. They list jets for 4000-7000 feet, 6000-10000 feet and 9000-15000 feet.
Refer to: http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/eu2000i.shtml
I bought a couple of the 2000's last year and have not used them for more than 20 hours each. I plan on changing the oil this week and I was wondering if you guys recommend using synthetic oil. I am currently not using it, but a switch is easy enough.
Thanks in advance,
Matthew
on edit: Here is a website that has the manual online:
http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/eu-2000-owners-manual.pdf
The oil alert light stops my engine sometimes when I start it from cold. I have noticed this when I move the generator i.e. from the cupboard onto the floor. Only happened a couple of times now.
Doesn't happen all the time but it runs a few seconds then stops. Each time I start it (if it persists) it runs maybe 30 seconds then stops. Each time running a bit longer before it stalls.
My question is how does the oil alert switch / sensor work? Does it need to soak some of the oil up a tube or something? This problem seems to have disapperaed but the repairer noticed the same thing when he first put oil into my new generator.
Post this into your address bar to see my twin setup:-
I went by the previously posted instructions listed below:
1) Remove panel that has the choke slide on it.
2) Turn gas to off.
3) Drain gas from carb bowl by loosening the screw on bottom of carb bowl that is in metal housing. It has clear flex tubing as drain tube.
4) Remove screw holding black air box on.
5) Remove two nuts holding air box, and carburetor.
6) Slide carburetor out, careful with gaskets (two). (you may have to remove at least 1 hose here from the carb. also to get it off the studs, you'll see)
7) Remove nut holding carb bowl (bottom of carb)
Jet is within bowl area of carb - replace with new jet.
Do not over tighten jet.
8) Reverse procedure for reassembly. Don't forget to close carb gas drain.
The first generator I did took about 25 minutes. I was purposely going slow and some of the steps were not entirely clear until I read them again. The second generator took 12 minutes.
The above directions are good but I have a few comments that might make it easier to follow:
Step 2 (Turn gas to off) is confusing until I realized that there is no valve that just turns off the gas. Apparently the main on/off switch that is used to turn off the generator is a combo gas/power switch, or perhaps the original author of the instructions was referring to the main on/off switch.
Step 3 (drain the carb....) The first gen drained for a few seconds then stopped and I continued the procedure. The second gen would not stop draining. I finally tried running the generator with the cap vent closed for 5 minutes and after that it drained but a few seconds and then stopped and stayed dry. Someone in another post suggested removing the gas from the tank and running the generator dry. That’s not a bad idea.
Step 4 (Remove screw holding black air box on) refers to the hex head screw that is found behind the foam filter element.
The carb is held in place by two "permanently" mounted, horizontal threaded studs. Once the nuts are removed from the studs, the carb is free to slide off the studs. You are better off to break loose the nut holding the carb bowl on before you slide the carb off the studs, then finish removing the nut once you slide the carb off the studs.
I never found it necessary to remove any hoses of any kind. The filter element box just flops down out of the way, no problem.
Besides the jet that comes stock, there are two additional jets available, one for 4000-7000 ft. above sea level, and one for 6000-10000 ft. above sea level. The lower elevation rating becomes the absolute "floor" of operation. In my case I installed the 4000-7000 jets. If I operate my generators lower than 4000 feet I take the chance of harming the engine's piston. Operation above 7000 feet is permissible and, though not optimum, performance is still better than the stock jets at altitudes exceeding 7000 feet.
illapah
Ely, NV
'03 Montana 2955RL
'05 Ford F350 PSD
I bought a couple of the 2000's last year and have not used them for more than 20 hours each. I plan on changing the oil this week and I was wondering if you guys recommend using synthetic oil. I am currently not using it, but a switch is easy enough.
Thanks in advance,
Matthew
on edit: Here is a website that has the manual online:
http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/eu-2000-owners-manual.pdf
Those engines have no oil filters, therefore you need to change the oil every 50 HR, or so.
Since synthetic will not give you prolonged life and those engines usually works at 20-40% of their output, you are not gaining much from synthetic. I would use it going to tropics, as I did on my trail bike, that got really hot, while riding on dunes in Mexico.
Now that you have the 2000, you can get manuals for it from helmincs.com for $34.95. It is the Honda Power Equipment Shop Manual, not a copy. Carl
Have worked on cars most of my life but with these new ones I seem to be getting dumber and dumber. The more I learn, the more I need to learn. I was taught old-school tactics and have many stories to tell. I also have what I think are good ideas.
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