Much maneuvering and watching the trans temp hit 220, which it has never done, but one last push and I am in the site. Shift to reverse, and nothing...no noise, no drama, no puked fluid, just no motion....and here is where I am:
...Bummer. Brings me back to the time we had a shift cable break on us when backing into a site, only at least we had gotten the TT several feet off the road and within about 6 feet of where we were going to set it up anyway.
Hope the repair goes well.
I like that they finally moved the multi-function display to the top of the dash where it's closer to a driver's sight lines.
I was about to buy a GMC 3500HD CC SB SRW 4x4 diesel pickup, but the old dash configuration and the thick rear doors with no pockets kept the money on my side of the table. When they get this interior in the HD pickups, I'll be back.
Advice asked for is not always advice taken. The OP may have simply wanted to see if he could be talked out of doing what he was thinking of doing. SOMEbody's going to end up buying that truck and taking their chances. Why not him?
...Ever wonder why someone traded it in?There are numerous reasons, with many of them being no cause for concern. Perhaps the previous owner cashed in on something and decided to trade this one in for a new truck. People don't always keep vehicles just because they were in too good of shape to unload.
Of course I'm biased, but for more than 5 passengers, I can't imagine a better match for the 9000-pound trailer than the "classic" Burb K2500 with the 8.1L and 4.10 axle. We've had ours for 11+ years now and have been thrilled with it all along the way. It's actually not a bad hauler, either, as I can get about 20 sheets of 4x8 plywood in it with the seats down and still close the tailgate.
Our Burb is rated for towing 12,000 pounds with a 150-pound driver and a full tank of gas. It has a 6000-pound rear axle and a payload of over 3000 pounds. True, the tranny is a 4-speed, but I've towed all the mountains of the Pacific Northwest and the Rockies and have never had a problem keeping all our stuff up to speed. As long as I keep it at 60 mph (in Tow-Haul mode) and I'm not going up anything steeper than a common overpass, it stays in overdrive and at a tad under 2100 RPM.
Interestingly, your situation is the opposite of ours. The number of passengers going along on our trips is reducing as our kids reach college age, and we're actually looking a 3500HD Diesels right now because DW would like to move to a fifth wheel when it's mainly just the two of us.
Shortly after we purchased our Burb, one of the concerns I had was that the 8.1L engine would be discontinued, so I was extremely glad I got it when we did. It's not a great commuter vehicle due to the horrible fuel mileage running cold, but for towing it's a very comfortable and powerful beast. Since it's been used largely for towing and vacationing, it also has only 72k miles on it, which may delay how soon we move over to the diesel pickup - unless we find someone who wants the Burb more than we do.
Hey BurbMan, I know you know your stuff about Burb's, so I'll take your word for it. I think you might be onto something regarding a rolling average, because that would definitely appear like a "lag" in comparison to "instant" temps. Instant temps are not always the most accurate because the reading can be reporting sensor 'spikes'. I also wonder if some analog gauges have their needles zeroed in better than others.
Thanks for the clarification on the sensor location.
The Jeep GC showed 170 degrees on the digital readout, just test driving around town. But you think that the on-board readout will not be accurate? I wonder how and why the mfrs would set it up to take measurements that are not accurate?
Question: has anyone ever compared their on-board tranny temp readout to a Scangauge or similar, to quantify how accurate or inaccurate the onboard readout was?I don't know how accurate or responsive the readouts are on other vehicles as I only have experience with my 2002 Burb. With the Burb, there is a very real difference between the instrument panel gauge (analog) and the ScanGauge (digital). Based on the temperatures being reported, I'm guessing that the analog gauge is not as well calibrated as it could be, and there appears to be a lag between the digital temperature and the analog (needle) temperature. Sensor location may be different for the analog dash panel gauge than it is for the OBD II port's output, which would be an additional factor to consider.
Bottom line, though, is that any readout at all is going to be helpful and more useful than relying only on a warning/indicator light.
On a long hard climb it's not uncommon to see the tranny temp get up to 220°F for short periods. Since that's about as high as I want to see it, it's extremely helpful to see just how long it's up there and how quickly it comes back down.WOW 220? I have never seen over 200-205 pulling a hill in 2nd gear!...What gauge are you going by? It is rare for me to see the dashboard trans temp gauge read over 205, but the ScanGauge is getting the digital temperature from the OBDII port and is far more responsive and accurate.
60 degrees over ambient? Ha - maybe towing a pop-up on flat ground...
Our 2002 Burb has an instrument panel gauge for transmission temperature, but I use a scangauge which is considerably more responsive and accurate. On an 85°F day and towing our 8500-9000 pound TT on flat ground at average highway speeds, we'll see transmission fluid temps of about 160°F. On a long hard climb it's not uncommon to see the tranny temp get up to 220°F for short periods. Since that's about as high as I want to see it, it's extremely helpful to see just how long it's up there and how quickly it comes back down.
I'm afraid the built-in instrument panel gauge doesn't show the true temperature until damage would already have been done. I'd recommend something like the ScanGauge for anyone who's really serious about protecting their transmission.
...If this procedure is used, the WDH does not have to redistribute the load which is removed from the TV's front axle due to adding weight behind the rear axle.To avoid confusion to any who might be considering moment arms, weight added behind the rear axle does add to the moment arm a WD hitch works to oppose/reverse - that's just basic physics and geometry - it's just that there's no need to account for its minimal contribution as long as the procedure Ron laid out is followed.
In reality, it's very difficult to add cargo weight behind the rear axle of the TV without adding just as much or more weight in FRONT of the rear axle - negating any minimal moment arm entirely and actually HELPING load the front axle.
There's nothing crazy about going from a FW to a TT. I know a couple who have done it for the lower profile and getting the bed of their truck back and several others who are considering it. Another reason some consider going 'back down' to a TT is to help their knees by getting rid of the additional steps to the bed/bath.
Of course it takes a little more effort to hook up a TT for towing each time, simply because you're hanging the tongue weight some 5 or 6 feet behind the rear axle, which has the teeter-totter affect of removing some weight from the front axle and gives a side-to-side lever through which a TT can try to turn the truck. These are easily addressed by a number of effective weight distribution and sway control hitch systems, but they ARE an addition that is not even on the table with a FW.
There are some nice attributes to towing a TT as opposed to a FW. I personally like the lower profile of a TT when height clearances can be a factor and I find backing a little less sensitive to slight 'misses' of the steering angle, allowing me to back faster if helpful. As was mentioned, in turns a TT tracks behind the tow vehicle a little more closely, but I don't know if it negates the extra overall length of a similarly sized trailer.
Weight in the bed DOES make a small difference, but not enough to offset the importance of having weight properly distributed on the trailer. Whatever weight you have in the truck behind the rear axle IS going to add to the weight that a WD hitch has to redistribute, but it does next to nothing to resist side-to-side twisting (the "yaw" Ron mentioned).
Oh sure, it will add a little to the inertia of the tow vehicle and it may make it a little easier to maintain weight on the front axle, but inertia is of little help in resisting side-to-side twisting compared to having properly weighted tires on the ground and a trailer that isn't tail-heavy.
I've been using the DC setup for over a dozen years. From 2000 to 2004 I was using the DC with round bars and from 2004 to present I've been using the Dual Cam HP with the trunnion head.
Other than the setup needing some babysitting to make sure the detent of the spring bars hit the cams properly under various loading, I didn't have any trouble with the DC and was actually very pleased with it.
Two years ago when backing into a site with a little more angle than normal, I had a cam arm break.
Just over a week ago when towing over the horrible stretch of I-5 between Seattle and Tacoma, a cam arm got bent significantly.
While looking into a fix and hoping to avoid any further failures, I learned from 'Greg' at Trailer World just outside Bend, Oregon that when Cequent bought Reese a few years back, they began outsourcing components (including the cam arms) from China. He said he had been a long term proponent of the Dual Cam and had installed more of them than anyone else in the state. He now does a lot of installs for the military and says the Equal-i-zer is the only hitch that meets all their requirements. He also didn't have to work all that hard to convince me that the Equal-i-zer was considerably more fail-safe than the DC.
I called Cequent and they overnighted a brand-new Dual Cam HP set to me where we were camping. When I opened the box I saw that they had made a number of design changes since the new set I had purchased a couple years ago. The changes appear to be designed to improve the contact area between the spring bars and the cams, but also required me to drill new holes in the tongue frame to keep from having to use an excessive length of the cam arms (which would've made them more susceptible to bending).
I'm still satisfied with my DC setup, but if I was starting from scratch today I would most likely go with the Equal-i-zer. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like they have anything for tongue weights over 1200 pounds, so the OP may not have that option if they wish to stay within manufacturer ratings.
We tow with a K2500 Burb and on our last trip I had a cam arm get bent. When I spoke with a technician (Lucas) at Cequent (Reese), he emphasized that cargo in the back of the Burb was to be added to tongue weight when determining how much the spring bars were being loaded.
I believe the reason you're seeing a difference between your Burb and your truck despite the geometry and the trailer being the same may be related to the truck being lighter on the rear axle than the Burb was.
I recommend that you set everything up from scratch and monitor the hitched and unhitched weight on the front axle to be sure it doesn't change. At that point you'll have the right amount of pressure on the cams.