No confusion here in the Southwest: Red Flag warnings mean NO wood or charcoal fires and propane STOVE ONLY with an issued fire permit.
BTU output of typical propane firepit: 65000 BTU.
BTU output of a typical campfire: 50000000 BTU.
Difference is 18.2X BTU with 20 lb campfire (typical) vs. propane campfire (typical).
1. seasoned wood with 20% moisture
2. average 20 MBTU/cord at
3. 85 lbs wood/cord
4. 20 lbs of wood burned in a typical campfire
5. 1 MBTU = 10^6 BTU
Q = 20 lbs x (1 cord / 85lbs) x 20 MBTU/cord x 10^6 BTU/MBTU
Q = 4,700,000 BTU
say 5 MBTU
I was raised a swamper in 4X4s in a wilderness area, but I think the issue is seeking reliability advice on THIS forum. A subscription to Consumer Reports will give you actual advice from the entire statistical database, including unbiased professional analysis. But it's you time to waste, and among the threads there are other owner's experience... wait, that's what a subscription provides. I"m Ford and GM certified (previously), and that's where I get my data. :B
Is it just me, or is it just people in an RV who think a propane campfire is adequate? For tent camping, We find their performance... worthless with almost no light or heat. If they could be used in Red Flag fire alerts, I'd sure as heck have one, what ever the biggest one is... but here in the SouthWest, you can't use anything but a propane stove or propane grill (and then only with a signed fire permit). :R
My Netgear Range Extender adds a password choice along with the .ext suffix identity as opposed to the router, a Netgear AC1900. I paid $ 29.00 at a Fry's Electronics sale, retail was $ 59.00. Works without issue and has an ethernet jack to boot. I think you need both a router and an extender that are compatible, in your case, my guess is they are not compatible and preventing a different password.
Disclaimer: I'm not a computer professional, but my father co-wrote cobol, fortran, and parts of basic...and set up the TRACON systems that get me home safely by air. I wanted to be a scientist. YMMV. :B
The homestead exemption only applies to a stick built house or condo that is used for your primary residence. Not sure what your Florida housing aituation is.
Not correct. I lost my homestead exemption on a Florida mobile home/room extension because I'm a non-resident. I did apply for and receive a homestead provision on my home's title, as it protects property from seizure from non-payment of debts (such as credit card or liens) up to $500,000 assessed value. This is another incentive to Florida property. There are two types of homestead, the property tax discount, and the title protection. Until I live there 6 mo. or more, I only get the latter, and have 60% higher property taxes from losing the former. We only visit in the summer, because compared to San Diego, the SW Florida winters are too cold, LOL. :B
I have nothing against Coal-Powered automobiles towing RVs, and why not, I have a Prius with a TorkLIft hitch, Reese lighting kit and Firestone Ride-Rite air bags. Now don't tell that to my Cali legislators, they like to hire phony pHDs and promote environmental hoaxes to tax us out of our own homes.
Bought the highly-touted Phillips Airfryer model to replace a broken Farberware 4-qt. deep fryer. We were very disappointed in the finished product as far as taste and texture, the limitations on types of food that can be prepared in them, and sent the thing right back to BB & Beyond for a Breville 4-qt deep fryer. Back in happyland now, lol!
*DISCLAIMER: Trophy wife is a gourmet cook and we eat a variety of homemade asian and latin dishes made from scratch. We are very demanding, YMMV.
OP - check the free section on Craigslist. Someone is always giving away fire wood. Just don't get pine. Better if it has been split and dried/seasoned. You can usually get enough for a trip for 20 bucks or so. I've seen CG rules that prohibit picking up firewood/brush from the ground. All you have to do is check to see if the one your going to allows camp fires. Ask about firewood - can you bring it/do they sell it?
?pine? We mix it in with our eucalyptus, and it has a few pops but little more if it's seasoned for at least a few months. It's definitely not a hardwood, but it beats what is sold in local convenience stores.
Do you have an REI or EMS store near you? Their experienced personnel will guide you toward quality tents with full-length rainflies, vestibules and color-coded setup features. They will keep you away from outdated, leaky designs that depend on low price and volume to keep you buying low-tier tents over and over again. An REI or EMS can show you down or synthetic sleeping bags to keep you warm, and self-inflating sleeping pads or closed-cell foam mats with actual R-Values so as to not sacrifice your body heat like cots or big air mattresses - that big-box stores WILL stock next to their mass-market gear.
We bought a Phillips based on positive reviews, while getting set to replace our broken deep-fryer, and were very disappointed at the finishing taste, texture and cooking limitations of what could be prepared in it. We returned it for a Waring Pro 4-qt deep fryer. Now we know better and won't make that mistake again - YMMV, my wife is an Asian gourmet cook, I was a chef before I was a chemist, and we have different expectations of food than other people might.
Good to have on hand, a spare OEM air filter is an easy replacement. Just keep it in the box until you remove the old filter - hold the old filter up to the sunlight and see if you can see daylight through the pleated media. If you can still see the bright light, your filter is still doing it's job. When dirty, it won't permit much light at all. This is a good benchmark to check the condition of your air filter.
Anyway, in respect to the OP, Heck Yeah livemusic! We always tote hardwood (eucalyptus is our easy go-to choice) to campgrounds, and we've toted it X-Country before for nice warm campfires. It doesn't take a degree in forestry to discover if your local wood supplies contain pests that are a danger to other locales - ours don't and the pests that have attacked our (other) trees came from Arizona into California. The bundles they sell at campgrounds are (IMHO) worthless, construction cuts burn too fast for the space they take up, and everbody (IMHO) should own and know how to use a chain saw. Call me a country boy, but that's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it, LOL. Come visit our campgrounds for a delightful experience (other than those pesky rangers, haha).
When we've hunted mule deer in the Sequoias (Zone D-8), it's October, and drops below freezing at night at 5500' elevation. The water pipes freeze until after 11 AM so you better have yours already set aside. We use double-wall full-length rainfly polyester tents from quality brands, and some of us hang tarps over our tents to achieve the same construction. Not knowing what you're doing means an uncomfortable night in bed! I haven't had a synthetic sleeping bag since the '80s, those were for my kids until they were out of "accidents", lol. Now everyone has a Marmot or A16 down bag and ThermaRest self-inflating sleeping pad. I spend less on my goose-down bags and pads because they don't wear out, and will easily last a lifetime. Folks who are just starting out (of course) should not invest that much in quality, and Slumberjack-type synthetic bags are ideal. Once you realize camping is for you for the long haul, quality bags and pads will deliver much more value over time vs. replacing synthetic substitutes. And if you can use a computer and have a credit card, there's really no need to spend "megabux" on high-end sleeping bags and pads, LOL. There are a lot of great deals out there if you have the time - closeouts, model changes, seasonal clearances, etc.
Avoid under all circumstances cots or hollow-tube air mattresses for cold weather. They are designed for use inside heated enclosures, so you'll need a heater or heated mattress pad or electric blankets unless you plan on bringing 6X the sleeping gear to compensate for their 0.75 thermo-negative R-Values.
Companies like NorthFace, Marmot, Mountain HardWear, Sierra Designs, A16, REI and EMS sell quality sleeping bags for a variety of cold climates. Whatever your choice, synthetic or down, mummy or rectangular, if you plan on sleeping in the cold make sure your self-inflating sleeping pad or mattress has an R-Rating of 5.0 or higher so you don't freeze.
The gel products are good for short-term use like day trips, they won't soak into your sandwiches, but since they aren't solids as they begin to melt, won't last as long as regular blocks of ice. Igloo and their "techs" can say whatever they want, but unfortunately for them, they can't suspend the laws of science, and better coolers (just like your grandfather's icebox) have drains to make the ice (solid) last longer than when suspended in water (liquid) and instead air (gas) that transfers heat slower (the reality of the world we live in). Prove the law to yourself by taking a mesh bag with a cube of ice inside it. Use a chopstick and string to partly suspend it in a glass of cold water. After a little time passes, lift the ice and notice how the bottom melts faster than the top. Why is that? Because the solid ice melts and the air insulates the solid surface to slow the melt. Your cooler and its contents stay cold longer by removing the fastest heat exchanger, i.e.; the melted water... This experiment is used to illustrate to students this law of science. The same law of thermodynamics is why you don't sleep warm on cots and big air mattresses. Hey, why not take some techs advice vs. career science people, whatever turns you on, LOL. :)
...Huh? New, it is $280. I paid $75. Seems a good deal. As for wintertime, I don't care, I live in the heat. I care about summer cool with 100 degree days and 78 degree nights. And why is this particular cot so bad for R-value in winter, is it this model or just tent/cots in general?...
All cots and those big hollow-tube air mattresses are heat sinks as temps fall below about 50-degrees F at night. Their hollow space and empty air are the way heat is drawn away from your body to match equilibrium with the cold outside air. Small cells stop the transfer just like a solid surface. At the extreme end of summer camping (I'm typing this from the Everglades right now) you WANT that kind of relief, possibly along with a fan to be comfortable. This is why the US military still use cots overseas in locals like Iraq and Afghanistan, but use ThermaRest self-inflating sleeping pads in the cold.
I bought a used Cabela's tent/cot that is like new. I have never used it but, new, it was expensive. Like, $280. It looks like this...
More expensive than you think, lol. At a 0.75 negative R-value, you need like 6 times as much insulation to stay warm vs. a 5.0 R-Value self-inflating sleeping pad. Now THAT'S expensive, LOL. The person who sold you that cot deserves a Staten-Island Smackdown! :B
Sorry NYC Girl, but the Gel Packs make the ice melt faster. You're adding materials that will transfer heat to the ice and make it go away! The air (gas) transfers heat almost as slowly as a solid (ice, or the cooler walls) Keep the lid closed, melted water out, and only the slower transferring air in and your ice lasts longer and the food gets a longer time under refrigeration. Having gel packs inside a cooler introduces the melting issue the same way frozen jugs do unless you drain the melted liquid out. Hate to ruin your party though, sounds like Beer & Skittles all the way lass...