Modified GEO method here.
The idea of the softener making the sides of the tank slippery made a lot of sense to me. I treat the tank with softener after a good cleaning a couple of times per year.
The rest of the time it is dump and rinse, rinse and rinse. The only time we have had a smell problem is when we were stuck at home for a while with no place to dump with waste in the tank. After a good cleaning and softener it was back to normal (no smell).
Don't stop there. Put a lid on it with a vent line. Add a back flush device and you could make a 1-hour documentary.
Of course, we would all think you are really sick as opposed to just plain wrong. ;)
I do wonder what difference working against a small vent line would have on both systems. My guess is that the time of the 3-inch gravity dump would increase, and the sewer solution would stay about the same.
Thanks for using simulated waste. I was taking my lunch and checking in with the RVnet!
Time for an upgrade. :B
The pump is usually within a few feet of the fresh tank. These pumps can dry prime, but they aren't miracle workers.
SHURflo says place within six feet of water source for their RV pumps.
If I had the extra cash, I would pull it and replace with one similar or better. Just make sure both pumps use the same fittings, and it should be an easy swap.
Then you can find out what is wrong with this one, fix it and keep for a spare.
Once you pull it, you could wire it to a 12V battery, scrounge some tubing or hose and play with it until you figure out what is wrong.
SHURflo makes repair kits for most of their pumps. You have to figure out what is wrong before you know which repair kit to buy. It's hard to find small devices that have repair kits available these days, but the nature of the pump world leads most makers to provide them. Many of these pumps (or similar types) are used in the marine world. Smart skippers want to stock replacement parts and be able to fix stuff on the water.
As to your pump, my guess is the pressure switch or check valve. The design is such that when it senses a loss in pressure, it turns on and pumps. When it senses enough pressure (usually set at 65psi from factory), it turns off.
You could have a loose electrical connection, but if the delay between "on then off" is about the same every time, my guess is pressure related. If the vibration of the pump were cutting it out, I would guess the time lapse before turn off would be much more variable.
Please tell who the dealer is so someone on here doesn't waist their time.
OH, almost forgot: $5,000 down balance at delivery on new MH.
Made additional down payment at time of delivery. I knew the amount of additional down at the time of the deal. They wrote the loan application based on the additional DP.
So, even with a significant down payment, no need to lay it all out there prior to delivery.
I was a little nervous floating $5K out there, but was confident that the dealer and manufacturer would deliver the unit as ordered, because we wrote up a detailed order.
Stonewall Jackson State Park and Resort in WV has a campground with mooring posts right at the campground.
The lake has great finishing too.
You could also check into the Corps of Engineers lakes in the central WV area.
I had a controller fail at year 6. I also had a stereo system that was a piece of garbage, but I'm pretty sure it was built as designed by Forest River.
I haven't looked at every label but most of the components came from off shore. I think they are holding up fairly well considering the box bounces down the highway.
The installation of those components is another story. The real problems I have had have been builder-induced by a lack of quality control and attention to detail.
I didn't get any better quality from the Forest River dealer who did warranty work. I'm hoping for better from Tiffin's, but we shall see.
I understand it is tough to get quality people. Heck, the RV has every system of a house and then some. Anybody skilled enough to know the ins and outs of an RV probably won't work for peanuts and that is probably what the dealers and manufacturers want to pay.
I have gone through the new experience twice now.
I found myself fixing the little things because it was easier to do myself. By the time you add in fuel and the aggravation of driving it in during work hours, it didn't make sense to have the dealer do it.
Heck, I even had the dealer order a repair part, picked it up and installed it myself.
As long as we do this, the manufacturers are laughing all the way to the bank. If purchasers insist on quality before we pick it up and during the warranty period, maybe these companies will straighten up.
Make them pay for their shoddy workmanship after the sale.
I have a list of a bunch of little things that are going to be added to a couple of big-ticket items that I will be looking at my dealer to fix under warranty. We are lucky to be headed that way in a couple of weeks for a non-RV trip and will drop it off for a week. We'll see what gets done. We will probably use that trip to only get authorization for the repairs, and a return trip will be needed.
Like was already said, these companies don't have the network that the big auto makers have.
Although in a different field, I deal with engineers' mistakes regularly.
I suspect you are light on the tongue and heavy on the stress to your frame. If you can counter the load with additional weight on the front and stay under the various weight ratings, go for it.
Like others already mentioned, you need real weights, loaded for travel. Check those against the trailer axle ratings, tire ratings, trailer's gross weight rating, TV's gross combined weight rating and TV's rear axle ratings.
Also, this sounds like a job for something other than friction sway bar control. The next step would be dual cam or Equalizer.
Good luck in your pursuit to take all the toys. It is tuff to do.
I agree with MSSMITH.
I'm a government regulator in another state and another industry.
Some businesses know how to work the system. They will milk the system for a few dollars more. Most will wait to the last minute, when they feel the hammer is about to drop, they take care of it. Or, when the customer is about to file paperwork, miracle of miracles, here it is, sorry for the delay.
The business will say that an employee screwed up or they lost the paperwork or some other excuse. As a regulator, I will let someone get away with this kind of nonsense once or twice, depending on the severity. Some blatant cases take immediate action. I will document the case, either way, usually with a Notice of Violation (kind of like a warning ticket). That way, when I take enforcement action later, I will be able to show a pattern or prior history.
In the administrative regulatory world, there are two sides to the coin. On the one hand, we are the overbearing government stifling a man trying to make a living. On the other hand, we are trying to protect the unsuspecting public. If this is the first case filed with the agency, they almost have to give the dealer a chance to make it right.
If the business has done this 100 times, it doesn't help a case if the public has not filed a complaint. I recommend that you proceed directly to the government agency that regulates dealers.
OK, I'll disagree too:
One of the things I like about WalMart overnights is that the lots are pretty level. I have stayed at a few and never been uncomfortable in the bed or walking around inside and never noticed any significant slope.
I do remember putting the tongue jack down on the TT once to take the weight off of the truck's suspension. Then, I read on a forum that I shouldn't do that or I'll ruin Wallydocking for everybody else.
As a fellow Easterner who has been West once, yes, it's doable and worth it.
(I have flown to Vegas a few times and driven there once, but that doesn't count.)
Before RVing, the wife and I did 9,800 miles by car with a tent. We only had 26 days. We pulled into our driveway at 11:30 on a Sunday night, and both had to be back at work the next day. It sure was worth it.
That was 1998 and we haven't been back since. We want to, but its hard to carve that kind of time from a busy work schedule.
We are saving vacation and giving our bosses fair warning for 2016. That is when we will do it again. This time in the Class A with two kids. We hope to take 4 weeks, maybe a few days less.
Yes, we will drive the wheels off. Yes, we will drive in shifts to get there. Yes, we will pass many great sites. But, we will expose our children to some of this country's greatest treasures. We have already given them the gift of the great outdoors here in the East, and they love it. I can't wait to see their faces when they see some of those unbelievable sights out there.
Does such a trip make sense when you add up the miles, gas money, seat time and more? That depends on the value you place on the destination.
I say go for it. Our reasoning was to go see what we could and we'd know what to do on the return trip. I never thought the return trip would take us this long, but life happens.
A quick recap of our 1998 trip:
San Francisco (Muir Woods, Trolley Museum and a drive up the Pacific Coast Highway)
Rocky Mountain NP
Is this trip doable in an RV --NO WAY!
We had a nice-driving Volvo. Many of these stops were just overlooks. We managed to hike a bunch. We rode our bikes around Yosemite and across the Golden Gate Bridge. A couple of these stops were dinner breaks at restaurants with overlooks. We pitched our tent on the beach in San DIego for a couple nights. We did a lot of the driving tours with pull outs. But, we knew we were on a tight schedule. We only had one reservation and that was at Yellowstone (two nights).
I wish we could go west 3 or 4 years in a row and take more time in more places, but that's not in the cards. The gas money alone makes it a once in a while trip for us.
I agree that you will need at least three days out and three days back.
I have driven home from Key West in three days, and that was leaving lots of driving time on the table. The DW has driven the MH on a short stretch. This year and next, she will drive it more to prepare for the big trip. She wouldn't touch the TT, but has no problem with the MH. The drive west is much easier driving until you get to the mountains. We will make serious time through the flatlands, then settle in to the tourist thing.
On our 1998 trip, we left home on Friday after work at 4:15. We pulled into a hotel near Badlands NP at 9:30 Saturday night. Our journal says we stopped to sleep in a truck stop at 2:30am and were back on the road at 9am Saturday. We were on the driving tour on Badlands Loop Road at 8:30 Sunday morning.
I don't expect to keep that pace in the MH with the kids, but they travel well. They can keep themselves occupied for hours.
I say go for it. Don't let the naysayers tell you that you won't see everything, so don't go. Go for what you WILL see, not for what you WON'T!
I had a GY Marathon go bad on the way to Disney. I was really lucky I caught it before it blew. I used my leveling blocks to change it out in a rest area. The temp was high 90s, and the humidity was probably the same--whew.
It was not as simple as having a jack, and I wished I did.
Here in the Marcellus Shale gas boom region, they will sell a bunch of those trucks to the gas drilling companies. NG pumps are showing up along the I-79 corridor.
I know a guy who converted an old PU to dual fuel twenty years ago. Of course, he had free natural gas at his farm. Makes real good sense to him -lol.
I also know a guy who has a gas well right next to the family Laundromat. A quarter gets you the longest dry time in the area at their place. They rake in the quarters.
I think the natural gas industry is pushing this initiative. They tout oil independence with a cleaner burning fuel. Of course, they are chomping at the bit to have a market to pump all this gas to.
Right now, the big drilling push is in the wet-gas region. The liquid constituents are the cash cow. (ethane, propane hexane) The dry natural gas wells won't pay the bills. If they go full throttle on the dry gas drilling, I''ll be right in the middle of the mess. As for now, the wet gas is just West of my area.
I have heard many people say that with this new drilling method, the US could become the Saudi Arabia of natural gas.
From the manual for my 2013
Use the following procedure to prepare your vehicle for normal usage.?
1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop, leaving it connected to the tow vehicle.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake.?
3. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK/OFF position.?
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, but do not start the engine.
5. Press and hold the brake pedal.?
6. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.?
7. Shift the transfer case lever to the desired position.
With all that said, my transfer case is a bear to get from neutral to 2H. Sometimes, I'll drop it into 4L and continue with the disconnect. Then, I'll drive it a few feet, put the transmission in Neural and then shift to 2H. It seems to work more smoothly this way.
Good to hear that MB is doing the repairs. Maybe the unit sat for a long time? Hard to say why the problem exists. It might be that the chassis just sat in a yard waiting to be born into an RV.
I wouldn't worry about a repair made by the MB dealer. Get to know them while they are working on it. You may need them for future warranty, recalls and/or service. It sure wouldn't hurt to stop by or call and ask them how the repair went or if there is anything to look for in the future.
They keep bombarding our food sources with chemicals, additives and medicine, yet our life expectancy keeps going up. Go figure?
Thanks in large part to pesticides, insecticides, steroids, antibiotics, and other sordid chemicals, we have the biggest variety and the greatest quantity of food available in the history of mankind.
My advice to anybody who will listen is:
The other day we were having beef roast for dinner and my 6-year old asked, Who shooted the cow?" I about busted a gut. I had to explain how some animals are hunted and some are raised for us to eat. I brought up that rabbits and horses are eaten in a lot of places. He said, "We don't do that here."
If they can figure out how to bring affordable horse to market that tastes good and is tender, someone else can have at it. The wife and kids won't touch the deer meat. Don't think they'll eat a horse.
Although, I have been so hungry I could eat one from time to time, or so I said.
I would think the RV dealer should take it to a service center authorized to do work on the chassis. In this case that would be a Sprinter service center. I'm not up on who all services Sprinters these days, but I think it is Mercedes Benz only. Dodge dealers may still be authorized, not sure.
I would look up authorized MB Sprinter service centers on the web and see if there is one close to you. If not, I would contact Winnebago. Your dealer may have had someone do work on your new MH chassis that was not done by an authorized repair facility.
The only way I could see that happening is if the dealer is very, very far from a MB service center and the repairs were relatively inexpensive. I can't see the repairs you described as fitting that bill. Something doesn't sound right to me.
If a dealer went outside the authorized repair network and put in rebuilt parts, I would think Winnebago would want to know about that.
If this is the case, that's one sleazy dealer in a hurry to make a sale. You should call them out on this forum by name.
Please find out the answers and let us know.