Although in a different field, I deal with engineers' mistakes regularly.
I suspect you are light on the tongue and heavy on the stress to your frame. If you can counter the load with additional weight on the front and stay under the various weight ratings, go for it.
Like others already mentioned, you need real weights, loaded for travel. Check those against the trailer axle ratings, tire ratings, trailer's gross weight rating, TV's gross combined weight rating and TV's rear axle ratings.
Also, this sounds like a job for something other than friction sway bar control. The next step would be dual cam or Equalizer.
Good luck in your pursuit to take all the toys. It is tuff to do.
I agree with MSSMITH.
I'm a government regulator in another state and another industry.
Some businesses know how to work the system. They will milk the system for a few dollars more. Most will wait to the last minute, when they feel the hammer is about to drop, they take care of it. Or, when the customer is about to file paperwork, miracle of miracles, here it is, sorry for the delay.
The business will say that an employee screwed up or they lost the paperwork or some other excuse. As a regulator, I will let someone get away with this kind of nonsense once or twice, depending on the severity. Some blatant cases take immediate action. I will document the case, either way, usually with a Notice of Violation (kind of like a warning ticket). That way, when I take enforcement action later, I will be able to show a pattern or prior history.
In the administrative regulatory world, there are two sides to the coin. On the one hand, we are the overbearing government stifling a man trying to make a living. On the other hand, we are trying to protect the unsuspecting public. If this is the first case filed with the agency, they almost have to give the dealer a chance to make it right.
If the business has done this 100 times, it doesn't help a case if the public has not filed a complaint. I recommend that you proceed directly to the government agency that regulates dealers.
OK, I'll disagree too:
One of the things I like about WalMart overnights is that the lots are pretty level. I have stayed at a few and never been uncomfortable in the bed or walking around inside and never noticed any significant slope.
I do remember putting the tongue jack down on the TT once to take the weight off of the truck's suspension. Then, I read on a forum that I shouldn't do that or I'll ruin Wallydocking for everybody else.
As a fellow Easterner who has been West once, yes, it's doable and worth it.
(I have flown to Vegas a few times and driven there once, but that doesn't count.)
Before RVing, the wife and I did 9,800 miles by car with a tent. We only had 26 days. We pulled into our driveway at 11:30 on a Sunday night, and both had to be back at work the next day. It sure was worth it.
That was 1998 and we haven't been back since. We want to, but its hard to carve that kind of time from a busy work schedule.
We are saving vacation and giving our bosses fair warning for 2016. That is when we will do it again. This time in the Class A with two kids. We hope to take 4 weeks, maybe a few days less.
Yes, we will drive the wheels off. Yes, we will drive in shifts to get there. Yes, we will pass many great sites. But, we will expose our children to some of this country's greatest treasures. We have already given them the gift of the great outdoors here in the East, and they love it. I can't wait to see their faces when they see some of those unbelievable sights out there.
Does such a trip make sense when you add up the miles, gas money, seat time and more? That depends on the value you place on the destination.
I say go for it. Our reasoning was to go see what we could and we'd know what to do on the return trip. I never thought the return trip would take us this long, but life happens.
A quick recap of our 1998 trip:
San Francisco (Muir Woods, Trolley Museum and a drive up the Pacific Coast Highway)
Rocky Mountain NP
Is this trip doable in an RV --NO WAY!
We had a nice-driving Volvo. Many of these stops were just overlooks. We managed to hike a bunch. We rode our bikes around Yosemite and across the Golden Gate Bridge. A couple of these stops were dinner breaks at restaurants with overlooks. We pitched our tent on the beach in San DIego for a couple nights. We did a lot of the driving tours with pull outs. But, we knew we were on a tight schedule. We only had one reservation and that was at Yellowstone (two nights).
I wish we could go west 3 or 4 years in a row and take more time in more places, but that's not in the cards. The gas money alone makes it a once in a while trip for us.
I agree that you will need at least three days out and three days back.
I have driven home from Key West in three days, and that was leaving lots of driving time on the table. The DW has driven the MH on a short stretch. This year and next, she will drive it more to prepare for the big trip. She wouldn't touch the TT, but has no problem with the MH. The drive west is much easier driving until you get to the mountains. We will make serious time through the flatlands, then settle in to the tourist thing.
On our 1998 trip, we left home on Friday after work at 4:15. We pulled into a hotel near Badlands NP at 9:30 Saturday night. Our journal says we stopped to sleep in a truck stop at 2:30am and were back on the road at 9am Saturday. We were on the driving tour on Badlands Loop Road at 8:30 Sunday morning.
I don't expect to keep that pace in the MH with the kids, but they travel well. They can keep themselves occupied for hours.
I say go for it. Don't let the naysayers tell you that you won't see everything, so don't go. Go for what you WILL see, not for what you WON'T!
I had a GY Marathon go bad on the way to Disney. I was really lucky I caught it before it blew. I used my leveling blocks to change it out in a rest area. The temp was high 90s, and the humidity was probably the same--whew.
It was not as simple as having a jack, and I wished I did.
Here in the Marcellus Shale gas boom region, they will sell a bunch of those trucks to the gas drilling companies. NG pumps are showing up along the I-79 corridor.
I know a guy who converted an old PU to dual fuel twenty years ago. Of course, he had free natural gas at his farm. Makes real good sense to him -lol.
I also know a guy who has a gas well right next to the family Laundromat. A quarter gets you the longest dry time in the area at their place. They rake in the quarters.
I think the natural gas industry is pushing this initiative. They tout oil independence with a cleaner burning fuel. Of course, they are chomping at the bit to have a market to pump all this gas to.
Right now, the big drilling push is in the wet-gas region. The liquid constituents are the cash cow. (ethane, propane hexane) The dry natural gas wells won't pay the bills. If they go full throttle on the dry gas drilling, I''ll be right in the middle of the mess. As for now, the wet gas is just West of my area.
I have heard many people say that with this new drilling method, the US could become the Saudi Arabia of natural gas.
From the manual for my 2013
Use the following procedure to prepare your vehicle for normal usage.?
1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop, leaving it connected to the tow vehicle.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake.?
3. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK/OFF position.?
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, but do not start the engine.
5. Press and hold the brake pedal.?
6. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.?
7. Shift the transfer case lever to the desired position.
With all that said, my transfer case is a bear to get from neutral to 2H. Sometimes, I'll drop it into 4L and continue with the disconnect. Then, I'll drive it a few feet, put the transmission in Neural and then shift to 2H. It seems to work more smoothly this way.
Good to hear that MB is doing the repairs. Maybe the unit sat for a long time? Hard to say why the problem exists. It might be that the chassis just sat in a yard waiting to be born into an RV.
I wouldn't worry about a repair made by the MB dealer. Get to know them while they are working on it. You may need them for future warranty, recalls and/or service. It sure wouldn't hurt to stop by or call and ask them how the repair went or if there is anything to look for in the future.
They keep bombarding our food sources with chemicals, additives and medicine, yet our life expectancy keeps going up. Go figure?
Thanks in large part to pesticides, insecticides, steroids, antibiotics, and other sordid chemicals, we have the biggest variety and the greatest quantity of food available in the history of mankind.
My advice to anybody who will listen is:
The other day we were having beef roast for dinner and my 6-year old asked, Who shooted the cow?" I about busted a gut. I had to explain how some animals are hunted and some are raised for us to eat. I brought up that rabbits and horses are eaten in a lot of places. He said, "We don't do that here."
If they can figure out how to bring affordable horse to market that tastes good and is tender, someone else can have at it. The wife and kids won't touch the deer meat. Don't think they'll eat a horse.
Although, I have been so hungry I could eat one from time to time, or so I said.
I would think the RV dealer should take it to a service center authorized to do work on the chassis. In this case that would be a Sprinter service center. I'm not up on who all services Sprinters these days, but I think it is Mercedes Benz only. Dodge dealers may still be authorized, not sure.
I would look up authorized MB Sprinter service centers on the web and see if there is one close to you. If not, I would contact Winnebago. Your dealer may have had someone do work on your new MH chassis that was not done by an authorized repair facility.
The only way I could see that happening is if the dealer is very, very far from a MB service center and the repairs were relatively inexpensive. I can't see the repairs you described as fitting that bill. Something doesn't sound right to me.
If a dealer went outside the authorized repair network and put in rebuilt parts, I would think Winnebago would want to know about that.
If this is the case, that's one sleazy dealer in a hurry to make a sale. You should call them out on this forum by name.
Please find out the answers and let us know.
Sorry if I led to believe it was a "wireless" device. The posters who said it must be connected to the router are correct. When I pull from it or back up to it, it is wireless from my devices to the router then to the hard drive.
It sits in a separate room from my two computers. I placed it where the cable comes up stairs. So, everything I have travels through my wireless network. My modem/router is connected to this hard drive through a wire, so I guess it is not wireless, but everything else is.
I use mine for a back up primarily. I do get an e-mail after a power outage telling me that service to my MyBook was interrupted.
I never pursued using it as a cloud service like I thought I would. I think I tried but the interface wasn't user friendly. Maybe it was too slow, I can't remember.
Basically, my MAC gets backed up to it every night through my wifi network. I guess I could back up the net book or the kids Droid tablets, but hey, we don't use them enough to matter. All of our important stuff goes on our Apple devices and gets backed up through the MAC to it. That seems to work well.
I forget what all is shared on it, but theoretically, I could go to it wirelessly and pull my photos or music to other devices. Its much easier to synch the Apple stuff through the iTunes synch process, so why bother, I guess.
Although the error message was different, it reminded me of the days when RVnet was down about every other day. So, it made me more aware of the great strides the site has made since then.
So, thanks for all the improvements. I can take an occasional outage, but don't make it a habit!
I'll quit paying my monthly dues.;)
I vote for selling the Hondas and buying a solar set up.
Of course, you probably can't make that happen by your trip, so just leave them home. One of the reasons we moved to a Class A sooner than we planned was the hassle of lugging the generator around. It sure is nice to push that button. My genn is on the rear driver's side and the noise isn't all that bad.
I'm in the process of replacing the graphics on a work boat and found a local guy to make the decals. He runs a sign-making shop and does stickers too. I'm using the white DOT reflective with black letters. Nothing fancy, the boss says keep it simple. Our agency logo wore out and was updated a long time ago. He's making the logo on a color-matched grey sticker to cover the shadow of the old one.
As far as the hitch, I had mine replaced for about $400.
Very difficult to impossible to do with the latest generation 2500 Burb/Yukon XL. The hitch is welded on with what look like crumple zones built in to it. My guess is that you could grind off the old and put on something new, but I don't think the after-market guys are building bolt-ons for this series.
I towed a 7500 lb TT with ours and was OK. I loaded it the best I could with just enough tongue weight to make it stable. Of course, that reduced my use of the front cross-over storage.
If you want to compare, we towed a 2007 Flagstaff 831BHSS.
Our Yukon was a 2008. We towed on the East coast. Pulled it to Disney/Key West twice and in and around the West Virginia hills with no problems.
You might need the trucker's atlas and one of the RVer's campground travel guides.
We bought a set our first year into RVing and never used them. We found that internet research prior to the trip was best for us. I could see where someone spending weeks or months out on the road would want the paper manuals by their side, though.
Good Sam/Woodalls Travel Guide