GCWR. It's called the 'rule of the door jamb.'Better go take another look at your door jamb. I suspect you will find GVWR and axle ratings there, but the GCWR is more than likely in your owner's manual.;)
I hope you don't feel I think all Canadians have my insecurities. It is obvious by the people that cross the border that they don't. I am sorry if I left that impression.Loulou - I'm originally British, lived in Canada (Oshawa) for 16 years before moving to Michigan. I live almost 30 miles North of Detroit and have no safety concerns whatsoever.
Yes, there are areas of the city I avoid, but then again MOST big cities have such areas.
My only involvement with the bad guys was when I was visiting friends in Toronto several years ago - my car was broken into at 3am.
I visit the UK a couple of times a year. My home town (Luton) is a war zone and I will not go there after 6pm.
I got a warning from the car rental company last time I visited...
"Do you have a sat-nav?"
"Do you use a suction cup to hold it on the windscreen?"
"Do not leave even the circular mark on the glass or your car will be broken into. Leave NOTHING visible inside the vehicle!"
Err, my sat-nav is in my car permanently here, the car is often in my drive-way unlocked. My garage door is left open for hours at a time. If the car is in the garage, the keys are probably in the ignition.
In 22 years since I moved to Michigan I have never had a problem.
The UK scares me more!
Relax a little, I really do think you are being too serious, even to the point of being paranoid.
If you are getting 120V from EACH hot leg to neutral, then you do not have a tripped breaker.
The only way to get zero between the two hots is for "someone" to have changed the wiring, either back at the panel or in the receptacle itself.
You need to trace it back to ensure you do in fact have two separate hot feeds, one from each half of the 240V service to the house.
Hello, I am enquiring about a 2005 Chevy suburban 2500 that is for sale in Dallas Texas. They are asking $9,995. It's done 120,000 miles and was a one owner vehicle with a very good Carfax history. (I am finding it very hard to find a 2500 series SUV, especially in Texas) this is our preferred choice as we need a 7 or 8 seater.
The TT we are very keen on purchasing is a Dutchman Aerolite 250KBHS with a GVWR of 7600 lbs. I asked what the tow capacity was for the vehicle and this was the response.
"The maximum towing capacity depends on the axle ratio of the trailer used. With an axle ratio of 3.23 the maxium towing capacity is 6,700 lbs and with an axle ratio of 3.73 your maximum towing capacity is 7,700 lbs."
I am waiting on a response from Aerolite for the axel weight.
How does this all sound to you guy's? And am I cutting it fine in regards to towing capacity?Regardless of the axle ratio - yes you are cutting it fine, but more so with the 3.23 than the 3.73.
Although you will be pushing your towing ability a little past its limits, where that 7000#+ trailer is going to hurt is the 1000# plus tongue weight. That is probably the limit of the 'burb hitch and eats up a good chunk of the available payload for the truck. Depending on how many people and how much "stuff" you plan to carry will determine whether you can stay within the truck ratings.
I for one would not want to push a truck with 120,000 miles on it too hard. I think you are asking a lot of it.
Note - not sure where the axle weights of the Aerolite comes in, it's the weight on the rear axle of the 'burb you need to keep an eye on.
Also, curiosity got the better of me - are you planning on shipping the 'burb to Oz?
"kaydeejay"......I actually went to Newmar's site and gave the correct figures. Please do your homework before calling me wrong. Gross Combined Weight is not empty coach subtracted from Gross Vehicle Weight. The Ventana's have a 10000 pound tow rating which is larger than GVWR.I still don't understand where you are getting the 10,000# tow rating from.
With a GCWR (NOT GVWR) of 33,000# and an empty weight of 26,100#, with NOTHING in the coach, the max tow is 6900# assuming the hitch is rated for that much.
And, according to the specs posted by EXECUTIVE, the GVWR is actually 1000# less than the sum of the axle ratings.
I'm sure you will correct me if I'm wrong :B
Elias....You have your numbers all wrong. Your front and rear gross axle ratings equal your gross vehicle rating. You have 12000 and 20000 equaling 31000, when it should be 32000. You then need to subtract your unloaded weight which is 26100. This gives you 5900 pounds of cargo capacity (fuel, water, people, food etc).
Since when did the sum of the axle ratings equal the GVWR?
I want to see someone load a vehicle that precisely!
Regardless, with a 33,000# GCWR and an empty weight of 26,100# the OP has a total of 6900# to share between what he loads in the coach and what he tows behind, provided the hitch rating is enough for the latter.
............ Also makes sure the tow/haul button is pushed in when you test it.I'm curious - since when did the tow/haul button have any effect on how an after-market brake controller works?Nevermind...it doesn't. I was thinking of the 12V battery charge feed for the 7 pin connector that is only energized with the tow button on.Hmm, that's also news to me. When did GM start that link, it's certainly not so on my 2005?
Thanks guys, now I understand that it will actually run higher RPMs with the lower gears. I think I'm going to stick with it for a bit and get used to the way the truck runs. The truck maintains speed no problem just gets a little throaty up steeper hills. At lower speeds there's no issue at all.That engine will run 4000 rpms all day long. Peak rpm is north of 5500, so you're not even close!
You have a 6-speed transmission, so just lock it into the gear where it's happiest (probably 5th), select Tow/Haul and let the computer work its magic.
It won't let the engine lug or over-rev. In fact, it's probably smarter than you or I!
Went to pick up my new Pup at the dealer yesterday, but they could not get the brake controller to work on my truck for some reason. I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton new body style. I think they said they had power to the controller, but nothing back at the seven way plug. They told me there must be something wrong with the factory wiring harness, and to take it to a Chevy dealer to get it checked out. He said it would flicker on, but not stay on, so he thinks the controller is good, but I think it may be a bad controller. All I know right now is it is a Tekonsha controller. Not sure what model or anything, but they charged me $175.00 for the controller with installation.
Anybody had trouble hooking up a brake controller to a Chevy? The only thing on the truck that isn't factory is a Leer camper top that I had installed two or three years ago. The high mount brake light on the camper top doesn't work some times, but it works most of the time. The inside light for the camper top has never worked, but I was going to look at it sometime to see why. I don't think that has anything to do with the brake controller, but I have seen some strange electrical stuff before. Any input would be appreciated.The red flag for me is the intermittent high brake light (CHMSL). That runs off the same feed from the brake switch as is used to drive the brake controller.
Are the regular brake lights working OK? The feed from them is split from the turn signal switch AFTER the CHMSL feed is taken off.
If the brake light feed is intermittent, so will the brake controller be.
A brake controller is not rocket science! The dealer tech should have been able to figure it out!
There are four wires:
- 12V power
- signal from the brake switch
- output to the brakes
I would start by checking for the 12V power and then 12V signal from the brake switch. If this signal is intermittent, then so will the brakes be.
If these check out, check the ground and then continuity of the output wire back to the 7-pin at the back of the truck.
If this all checks out too, then, unless the controller is defective, you WILL get a brake signal at the 7-pin, but as someone else said, you do need some kind of a load back there for the controller to work.
Ideally, plug in the trailer and listen for the magnets clicking or humming, else wire a couple of stop lamp bulbs in parallel to ground to present a 3-4 amp load to the controller.
A lot of people have successfully installed a fifth wheel in a standard 6 1/2 foot bed including us. The critical measurement is the distance from the king pin to the furthermost point on the trailer nose. If it exceeds the length from the king pin to a point on the cab there will be expensive contact if you are not careful. We learned the expensive way:S.
There are several ways around this. Look for a trailer with cutaways on the corners. A slider hitch will allow the trailer to move back when turning sharp, many people don't like them because of the time involved. Pull-rite makes an automatic system but it is pricey. Pin box extenders move the king pin back but are not cheap and add load to the pin box and hitch.he's got a 5' 6" bed! Pretty much guarantees contact if he does not have a slider.
have a 2012 ram 1500 crew cab with a short bed (5ft 6ins), found a small 5th wheel but wondering if a 5th wheel hitch can be installed in a short bed.
does anyone have one installed in a short bed and is it a special hitch that you have installed?
thanksWith a 5'6" bed you WILL need a sliding hitch or you will most likely put the corner of the fiver through the back window of your truck.
The gold standard of sliders (IMHO) is the Pullrite Superglide which is fully automatic - no user involvement required. They do a specific 12K model for the super-short boxes. Check it out here.
You need a mounting kit for the truck and "capture" plate for the trailer in addition to the hitch itself. The specific items depend on the truck and the trailer pin-box.
Not cheap and is also heavy, which might not be such a good idea depending on how close to your trucks payload capacity you are going to be with the loaded fiver plus everyone and everything in the truck.
You need to:
- look at the tire loading info label near your drivers door of the truck
- figure out the LOADED pin weight of the fiver (20% of GVWR is a safe guess and probably an over estimate)
- figure out the weight of occupants and stuff in the truck.
See if all that adds up to less than your payload rating. What's left is what you have available for the hitch.
What is the major difference between the 250 & 350 chaise. Are the brakes the same? Thank youPayload - period!
All the physical differences (springs/shocks/brakes/wheels/tires) are simply there to handle the heavier load.
...............BUT: our long-bed truck requires a second person to raise the tailgate while the truck is coming backward, or else the tailgate would hit the 5er. (Of course, if I needed to hook up and Ed was incapacitated - I'd just wander down to the first 5er I found and ask for a bit of assistance.)If you can't hitch up with the tailgate down then I suspect your hitch is too far forward in the box. Long box or short box, the hitch should position the pin over (or a fraction ahead of) the rear axle.
With my rig I can not only hitch up with the tailgate down but can also turn (within reason). Not that I make a habit of doing that but it also means I can hitch/unhitch at a bit of an angle.
So, note to OP, when you get a hitch installed in your truck, make sure it's done per hitch manufacturer instructions!
whelp...we signed on the dotted line and will take delivery of our very first class A motor home sometime next week. As I was sharing our good news with a co-worker, she said "Would you ever consider renting it out? If so, put us first on the list". Frankly, the thought of renting it out never crossed my mind, but the prospect of someone else helping "pay" for it is attractive!
My co-worker is also a good friend, who I trust would treat our property as if it were hers. So question to the group-do you have any experiences, good or bad, in renting your vehicle?
::: back to planning where to take our first trip::::)Quickest way I know to lose a good friend!
That's before you get to the insurance issues and whether your warranty would cover failures while rented.
Loaned (not rented) a boat to a friend once - never again!
Came back with a busted prop, an empty gas tank and what I think was sticky Coke residue splashed all over the inside.
Not so much as a "sorry"!
Needless to say our friendship ended right there
Thanks, I new I was in bad shape with the truck but I couldnt turn down the deal I got on the camper. Now I will go get a chevy 2500HD.Ahh! Just saw this post.
MUCH better solution!
If it's a 6.0L gasser, just make sure you get the 4.10 axle, not the 3,73 or you will still be (a little) over the official tow rating.
I just bought a new camper with a UVW of 8130# towing with a 2008 chevy 1500 4x4 w/5.3L motor and 3.73 gears. Do you think I will be all right towing this?No No No No! If you're having difficulty understanding, is the "N" or the "O" that's giving you trouble?
That 7500# tow rating is reduced by everything you put in the truck other than a 150# driver.
Your realistic tow rating is going to be less than 7000#. And you want to tow a trailer that grosses at 10,700#. Maybe you won't load that heavy but I suspect you will be close to 9500#.
"ONLY" 2500# over!
Don't do it.
Looking at the trailer life tow guides 2010 to 2011 for the Chevy/GMC Silverado/Sierra CC 6.6L TD DRW 4WD went from 15,900 to 21,000.
What the heck changed?
Yes I am new to this, wife and I will be retiring in a few years and plan on fulltime 5th wheel life for a few years. Just now looking to buy the truck.
Frame and suspension upgradesDon't overlook the bigger brakes
That 1700 lb hitch weight seems a little low, by at least 400-500 lb. only way to be sure would be the scales...........At almost 17% of the dry weight, that pin is toward the low end of the normal range of 15% to 25%.
That would translate to around 2300# at full GVWR, well within the range of a current model SRW 1-ton and within easy reach of some of the 3/4 tons if the truck was not otherwise loaded up.