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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > offloading camper on slanted driveway

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fishguy_40

long beach, ca

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Posted: 07/15/09 11:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does anyone have experience offloading your camper on a slanted (front to back) driveway?

My jacks are approximately 8.5 feet apart and my driveway slants 8 inches in that distance. Is this too much?

Please let me know if you have experienced this scenario and what you did about it if anything?

I am mostly worried about the camper sliding and getting a pad under my jacks so they hit level.


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SoCalDesertRider

Arizona desert

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Posted: 07/15/09 11:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes. I used to store my camper on land that was sloped in both directions front/back and side/side as well as not smooth ground under the camper either. I used 12" 4x12 and 2x12 wood blocks under the jacks and put more blocks under the lower points than the higher points so all jacks had enough length to lift the camper up off the truck and the jack feet were somewhat level with eachother on top of the blocks.

I lifted the camper even with the truck bed (not level) for the first bit untill the camper was barely free of the truck (not resting it's weight on truck). Then I started leveling the camper by lifting the low points more than the high points untill camper was relatively level. Once camper was high enough off truck bed that the truck could pull out without the truck bed hitting bottom of camper as it rolled over the uneven ground beneath the camper, I slowly pulled the truck out. The sides of the truck bed rubbed the rear part of the lower side walls of the camper a bit cause the camper was not even with the truck and my camper was a very tight fit at the tailgate opening, but I just went slow and watched that the camper wasn't being dragged forward and all was well.

Once truck was out, I set screw-up trailer leveling jack stands under the camper, sitting on 12" 2x12's so they wouldn't sink into the ground, and put a 4x6 wood beam accross each pair of jack stands at front and rear of camper floor. Front beam was 4' long and rear beam was 5' long. I set a level on top of the beams and adjusted the leveling jack stands untill the beams were basicly level side to side and eyeballed their heights for level front and rear.

Then I slowly lowered the camper down, maintaining a basicly level attitude, untill the floor very lightly rested on the beams. I checked the level of the camper front/rear and adjusted the jack stands as needed, then lowered the camper fully down onto the beams. I kept slight tension on the camper jacks to stabilize it.

That is how I stored the camper on sloped ground in both directions that was also uneven surface. Worked very good for me and never a problem with loading/unloading the camper.

Caution, use wood blocks, not open cinder blocks. Open cinder blocks can crack and fail without notice and cause a disaster. If you must use cinder blocks, fill the holes with concrete first.


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d3500ram

Colorado

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Posted: 07/15/09 11:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a gravel driveway... I hogged out soil under the truck's tires to help level out the camper in relation to the truck. It helped a lot.

mkrofcheck

California

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Posted: 07/15/09 11:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same issue, I made blocks for the front jack that matched the slope of my driveway. After that I never had an issue.


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BradW

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Posted: 07/15/09 11:57am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've loaded/unloaded on unlevel sites a few times. It is difficult and puts a lot of stress on the jacks when you rotate the camper on the jacks because the front to back distance between the jack feet should also change, but it can't because the jack feet are in contact with the ground. I never found a good solution.

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SoCalDesertRider

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Posted: 07/15/09 12:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My jack feet did 'walk' a bit on top of the blocks. That is why I went with 12x12 squares instead of using 2x6's or 4x6's in one stack. No jack feet ever fell off the 12x12 squares, though some did come close to the edge.

dmax lover

Portland,Oregon, USA

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Posted: 07/15/09 04:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a relatively long and sloped driveway - broken up from years of trees heaving the concrete, etc. The first time I unloaded and loaded again - it was a white knuckle experience.

I pretty much use the same technique as socaldesertrider and it works okay for me too, but I don't bother doing too much fine adjustment... I just "get the camper on" and then pull down the street to a friend's driveway that is perfectly flat to get it perfectly centered, etc.

This time, I unloaded using 2 X 6s on the front jacks so that they don't get overextended (my truck is very tall...)

I am going to probably put a new driveway in next year - I will make it ramp in the first few feet and be more level overall so that I don't have to deal with the slope when loading/unloading any more.

jeff

* This post was edited 07/15/09 04:49pm by dmax lover *


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fishguy_40

long beach, ca

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Posted: 07/15/09 12:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, I'm glad to hear that it has been done. The walking part is what worries me most. My current plan is to make 4 pads with the same slope as the driveway to level out the surface the jacks come down on. Then I will use the jacks themselves to level the camper on the driveway (front slightly higher of course).

Thanks a lot guys!! I appreciate the quick feedback and the details.

Vintagebronco75

Hillsboro, OR

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Posted: 07/15/09 12:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I unloaded mine for the first time last week and have a similar driveway as yours.

I backed up into position and then drilled 2 holes into the concrete and put in anchors, just in front of the rear bumper so that I can use my tie downs.

I unclamped the front tie downs, then unclamped one rear side and used that clamp with some chain links to go down to the anchors, I then did the other rear side the same.

I then put all jacks down to the concrete. I started with the front jacks and lifted about 1 inch then went to the back jacks and lifted about 1 inch. When I did the rear I would constantly keep an eye on the tie downs for tension. I wanted just a small amount of slack just in case the camper started tipping forward it would catch it. once I had the camper high enough above the bed I drove the truck out slowly. I had to raise the front of the camper twice as it would have touched close to the rear of the bed.

Once the truck was out I slowly lowered the rear first to get it closer to level, and then lowered all the same until it was low to the ground and level. I then connected the chain link to the camper so that it would not walk forward.

I did not see any stress on the jacks but i did have a couple of feet move slightly. I wonder if wood would allow the jack feet to adjust a little better than concrete.


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SoCalDesertRider

Arizona desert

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Posted: 07/15/09 01:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've only unloaded on concrete a couple of times and it was fairly level, except once. The wood does work good.

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