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RE: 1996 HR Endeavor LE slide-out height adjustment
On my 1999 HR Endeavor, my slide is on the driver's side and contains the kitchen. There are 4 rollers that support the underside of the slide. Two of the rollers are located in the basement bins (forward and rear of slide) covered by a black plastic box that's screwed to the ceiling of the bins. There are also 2 rollers inside the coach, in the lower kitchen cabinets beneath the sink on the floor (you might have to remove the drawers to see them. All of those rollers are adjustable and that was how I adjusted the height of mine when it got out of whack. I made several small adjustments and then observed/measured to see if I was close. It might take you up to several hours to make the correct adjustments, but I'd suggest taking your time and making only small adjustments each time.
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10forty2
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03/20/19 01:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slide out Fuses
Just thinking out loud here... but is the parking brake set? I searched for an hour one time to find the problem why my levelers wouldn't deploy, and I found that I had forgotten to set the parking brake. You might also check that the ignition switch is completely in the off position. My slide won't go out with the key turned even slightly.
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10forty2
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03/15/19 03:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: ? Heat & Air on Ford Chassis?
It depends on your definition of comfort. As you can see from the few replies you have already, some will think the dash air is enough, and others...like me....need the house A/Cs or furnace running too.
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10forty2
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03/13/19 11:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: electric brake booster
Sorry. I hear the hydroboost buzz when I put the key to the on position. Once I start the engine and while driving, I do not hear the buzz.
Seems to be the way it works....our 1999 HR does it too! When the key is on, but engine not cranked...as in when deploying stabilizers...the annoying buzzing is there. When key is not turned, no buzz unless you press on the brake pedal. When cranked, it makes no noise at all. Had brakes system bled 3 years ago when I replaced the brake lines and calipers....buzzed before and after, so I gotta guess it's the way it's designed to work.
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10forty2
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03/11/19 09:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New Ford F53 Chassis
So they re-powered it...that's great! BUT....the primary complaints I have with mine, and have read about over and over again has never been about the engine....they are always about the handling, stiffness and harsh ride of the chassis. Wonder if they are making any improvements there?
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10forty2
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03/05/19 02:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Audio interference
Could be as simple as a bad/loose ground too.
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10forty2
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02/21/19 11:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New RV- need Roadside Assistance??
I have Roadside Assistance through Good Sam and thus far, after using it twice for blown tires, am VERY glad we had it. In both cases, we were a couple hundred miles away from home, (once on a Sunday), and had no idea where to start looking for a service center that would be able to handle a 36' Class A. Called Good Sam, and in a couple hours, we had a new tire on the way along with a service truck/tech that changed it for us. Yes, we had to pay for the tire(s), and no they were NOT discounted....infact, they were quite a bit above retail...argued the point later and was satisfied with the result. BUT, we were back on the road safely in a relatively short time, and for the most part were only slightly inconvenienced. I've renewed Good Sam RA each year since.
We also have Roadside Assistance through our insurance carrier, but it only reimburses the cost and does NOT help to locate services in your time of need.
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10forty2
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02/19/19 12:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Towing weight limit
The WEIGHT/LOAD limit for the HITCH is what the HITCH is designed for and the Chassis mount/frame is designed for. You CANNOT just add a 10k hitch and think you are OK. Some Chassis/Frames you can install a 10k hitch but you must first find out from the Chassis maker if that is possible. If NOT, you can go to a certified welder and have him beef up the rear chassis/Frame to allow a 10k hitch to be installed. Doug
This!
Please don't overload your hitch....you not only risk frame damage to your rig, you more importantly risk hitch failure and consequently an accident involving much higher stakes than just damaging your own equipment! Plus, if your chassis isn't designed for the weight, it may not have adequate braking or suspension capacity either. It's easy to "PULL" a heavy load, but "STOPPING" it is a whole other thing. Engineers don't just stamp an arbitrary number on products for fun.....
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10forty2
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02/19/19 06:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome financing
We didn't pay NEAR that amount on our rig, but we used a home equity loan and paid the seller cash. Don't know if you have that much equity available, but it might be another option for you.
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10forty2
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02/06/19 02:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: That time of the year
Merry Christmas to you and yours as well! Safe Travels to everyone!!
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10forty2
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12/19/18 07:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Inverter generator while boondocking
We bought a Champion Dual Fuel 3,500 watt inverter generator for that exact purpose. We boondock about twice a year and the last time we did it BEFORE we bought the Champion, the on-board genset was putting out way more CO inside the rig than I was comfortable with, (measured by a calibrated CO meter...not just the CO detector). Even with a Gen-Turi installed, CO was higher inside than I wanted to go to sleep with. So, we bought the stand-alone unit and it works great! I can run one A/C unit and pretty much everything else. Have to make sure the electric water heater is turned off (can run either the A/C OR the water heater, but not both at the same time). It is more efficient with gasoline....1.2gal tank that will run it about 8 hours powering the A/C. On LP, it will burn a 20lb tank in about 10 hours under load and puts out slightly less power...about 3,100 watts instead of the 3,500 watts on gasoline.
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10forty2
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12/11/18 02:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: generator usage
With that few hours and the age, you may find it difficult to get it started and running. The carbs on those gensets are notorious for NOT liking the varnish from old gasoline.
And yes, generators in general LIKE to be run/exercised. That's what they are designed to do. Just maintain them with oil changes, new air and fuel filters and spark plugs at the recommended intervals and they'll last a really long time!
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10forty2
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12/07/18 06:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: A Strange Dealer Price Story (...at least I thought so.)
Never, ever go to a car or RV lot and NOT be prepared to leave without a purchase. Make it a buyer's market and not a seller's market and the deals will get better!
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10forty2
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12/05/18 02:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Storage
Turn the battery switches off and let it be. If you have the option, consider a trickle charger each for house and chassis batteries. Starting the engine and letting it idle may actually do more harm that good if you don't run the engine long enough/hard enough to bring it up to operating temp. If you plan to crank it while it's in storage, take it for a spin....say 30 miles or so to make sure that the engine/transmission warm up enough to boil off any condensation that builds up while sitting in storage. If not, then you're essentially circulating water throughout the engine.
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10forty2
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12/05/18 06:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Onan generator shuts off
One of the quirks of ours is that the generator will shut down if the moho's fuel tank gets low.
:)
Lynn
That's not really a quirk, but a safety design to make sure that you have enough fuel left to run the main engine rather than the generator. Most of them are designed so that at about a quarter tank left, the level is too low for the generator fuel line to pick up fuel.
To the OP, check your oil level too, to make sure it's not low and causing the generator to shut down due to low oil.
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10forty2
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12/03/18 02:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Weather
Weather is playing a larger part of our RV'ing. If we have a trip to the local lake/state park planned and it looks like it will be raining a good part of the time, we'll cancel. We like to sit outside and don't care anything about being cooped up inside for longer than overnight to sleep. We rode out two hurricanes in Virginia Beach, and a major 3-day flood in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. Trust me, it was NO fun sitting in the camper with only the 10 channels on the campground cable.
I will stop short of saying that I'd NEVER drive the RV in snow, as I could well get caught in it. BUT....I will not intentionally set out traveling in the snow with the RV.
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10forty2
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11/29/18 07:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roadside Assistance Plans??
We have Good Sam ERS and have used it twice for tire blowouts. Both times were handled quickly and we were back on our way in a relatively short period. We had a disagreement with the price of a tire we were charged on one of the incidents, but Good Sam resolved the issue to our satisfaction. I would recommend them over relying on your insurance company's roadside assistance offers. Keep in mind that Good Sam and/or Coachnet has contact information with companies across the nation that are familiar with RVs. Your insurance carrier might only have small tow companies, may not have 24-hour call centers, and may not have information on RV service companies. Big difference when you tell a tow company that it's a 25,000lb Class A Motorhome instead of a Chevy Truck.
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10forty2
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11/29/18 06:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Monaco Knight - Opinions??
Thanks everyone for the opinions! I had not noticed the potential delam in the photos, but will look at it closely if we go forward in considering the purchase. I also believe that the owner stated it was a Cat engine with 60K miles. Not sure if I recall that accurately, but feel certain that someone on here would know which engines were used on that model coach. The last time I saw it in person last year, it was VERY clean inside and out.....especially considering that they have 2 kids. I plan to look at it in more detail, and will decide if it's in my budget.
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10forty2
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11/13/18 08:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New to Reseal Front Cap to Roof - What to Use?
My front and rear end caps are sealed to my aluminum roof with Dicor Self-Leveling lap sealant. I had to re-apply last year due to some minor leaks, and after cleaning/applying, the Dicor, no more leaks! I've read many on here that use Eternabond tape for the seams and then the lap sealant along the edges. I think either would do the job nicely for you.
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10forty2
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11/12/18 06:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Monaco Knight - Opinions??
2006 Monaco Knight
A friend's RV up for sale. As I look around at various offers in my quest to upgrade to a DP, it appears to be a great RV. Any opinions on this one?
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10forty2
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11/12/18 06:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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