RE: Generator, inside coach switches won’t start.
Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Specifically, a priming issue. Does your indoor switches have the "prime" position? (On many of the Onans, you can push it towards the "OFF" position and hold it for around 10 seconds to prime fuel into the carb bowl before engaging the starter.) Reason I ask, is that my unit does NOT have that feature on the inside switch. It is a simple momentary rocker switch. It primes from the engine turning over. The switch on the genset itself will push towards the "OFF" position, but doesn't activate the fuel pump. I have to hold the choke until it pulls enough fuel in.
Try cold starting the genset from the switch on the genset itself first. If it is hard starting from there when it's cold, then I can't see any problem with the inside switches. Once the genset is "warm", there's already fuel in the carb bowl and it should start right up. When it's cold, the fuel in the bowl has likely evaporated and unless you can prime it, it takes several cycles of the engine turning over to pull fuel into the bowl to inject into the carb for combustion. I suspect, it starts right up from the genset switch because you've already primed it enough from turning the engine over when attempting to start it from the inside.
RE: WHAT!
Yeah, I saw the news on that situation this morning. I completely stand with Camping World on keeping that flag flying!! Every time I pass it on the highway, my heart gets full and my eyes start to leak a little at the beauty of that giant American Flag flying proudly and freely! There should be exceptions to every local sign/flag ordinance that allow any sized American Flag, no matter where it's flown, as long as it's not any kind of safety hazard like blocking an intersection view!
RE: Winnebago Intent 26M
Has anyone that is wanting a small Class A or C bought or looked at the Winnebago 26M? If so has it met your expectations? What got my attention just looking at their web site was 26'6" length, 48 gals of FW and a large rear pass thru storage bay along with the 362hp 3 valve Ford engine. All of the shorter Class C's 24-26 ft I had been looking at just had the 2 valve 305hp eng. less storage and less FW. I can't find the CCC from their site but assume it is much greater than the C's on either the Ford or Sprinter chassis.
We are seriously wanting to look at the Winnebago Navion, Class C. It is listed at 25'8" and has 3 or 4 different configurations. It's on the Mercedes chassis and seems to get really good reviews. A friend of ours got one recently and LOVES it. Just another model for you to look at.......
RE: Rear Leaf Spring Replacement
Geez...after getting all the parts delivered, and everything torn apart on one wheel well, find out that whereas the actual spring is correct, there are 2 spacer blocks that are attached to the original springs, and must be in place, else the rig will squat even lower with the new springs. So.....had to stop, order longer centering pins for the new springs so we can break them apart to add the spacers on the bottom of the spring pack. THEN....we discover that the gold-plated mounting hardware from Ford (u-bolts, nuts, top plates, end bolts, washers...not really gold but priced as such and only available from Ford due to odd lengths and sizes) were the wrong parts......so, after arguing with the parts guy at the Ford place he calls me back to look at his computer and discovers that there are actually 2 different rear suspension diagrams for the 1999 F53 chassis, and the one he ordered parts from was NOT the one I needed.......now, we wait for the new, CORRECT hardware to arrive next week and then pay double labor to the shop to open everything back up and get it all replaced.
THAT'S why I don't go to Vegas and play table games.......
RE: Fueling a gasser...
Yes, have had that problem since we purchased it, and the former owner said it was consistently a problem as well. My solution has been to lower the stabilizers on the fill side and jack up that side of the RV during filling, essentially making the fill angle more steep and less chance for the fuel to bubble back into the fill line, causing it to kick back off. Seems to be working well for me for the past few years. So far, no problems with doing that.....
RE: Front end wobble after hitting a bump
Another vote for something loose in the front end. Check all end links, drag links, tie rods, and all bushings/grease fittings. Might also check the steering box. I had a 1968 VW Beetle that would randomly go into a steering wobble...so bad that it would jerk the wheel from my hands and once almost sent me into on-coming traffic. After checking all connections, bearings, bushings, brakes, etc., ....I replaced the steering box and the problem went away.
RE: Rear Leaf Spring Replacement
Who’s doing the repairs?
A local repair shop. The same mechanic that did the front spring replacement. No, it's not a suspension specialist. The closest one for bigger rigs (mainly heavy trucks) is about 2 hours away...other side of Winston-Salem. I went to them initially and after they looked at it, they wouldn't even align it until after the springs and kingpins were replaced. So, I asked them to work up a price to do just that.....it's 4 years later and I'm still waiting.
The shop I'm using is owned by a guy that I've known since he was a kid. He went to truck mechanic school and has become a top notch mechanic. Opened his own place about 3 years ago. He primarily does small automotive repairs, but when I twisted his arm a little, he agreed to do my rig. I've also used him to replace the brake calipers and brake lines a few years back.
Rear Leaf Spring Replacement
Soooo, 3 years ago, after noticing that the front springs were in a negative arch, I decided to install air bag helper springs (Firestone Ride Rite) to see if that would help. It did, but after riding with just the air bags to make up the difference, I still noticed a significant amount of lean and dip/dive in curves. I bit the bullet and ordered new leaf springs for the front. Before last season, had them installed and, wow what a difference.....except that it restored the original ride height to the front, and made big girl squat like the young bucks' ridiculous-looking pickup trucks with the so-called "Carolina Squat." And, she still has more body roll than I want to deal with.
Well, she goes under the knife tomorrow to replace the rear springs, add rear air bag helper springs and new Bilstein shocks all around. I'll probably get the shop to do the CHF while they are under there. The parts were expensive enough, and I'm NOT looking forward to the labor costs. BUT, I don't have enough equipment at home to do the job in my driveway. Looking forward to her driving like a new one!! We'll see......
RE: Windsheild Drapes
We just took down our old curtain and had a friend of ours that's seamstress follow the exact pattern with new material. We ordered new track hardware from P&P Motorhomes and she sewed them into the new curtain. Spent less than $50 all in.
RE: Dual A/C's, but only 1 duct line
Yep. And in fact, the "ducts" in my rig are actually plenum channels cut into the ceiling insulation and directed to the interior of the coach by the vent covers. Seems to work just fine for us.
RE: Engine batteries not charging
Not sure about your coach, but my coach does NOT charge the chassis battery when on shore/generator power. I installed a Battery Tender on my chassis battery and plugged it into a house circuit to solve that problem.
RE: Foggy Windows
There are several options for you to consider. First, there are kits that you can buy to break the seals, clean and reseal yourself. Or, there are glass places that will repair them...don't know about your area, but I suspect a Google search will turn up some vendors. Or, you can do like I did and figure out the window manufacturer and order replacement panes that you can install yourself.
RE: Generator not starting
you don't need fuel to see if the 'starter' will engage and turn over the generator
you only need the fuel line to 'Run' the generator and test 'everything'
True, but having Murphy as a very close family member, I like to be sure EVERYTHING is working BEFORE I get it all buttoned up and have to unbutton it again.
RE: Generator not starting
We had the same issue last year. Our generator (Onan 5.5) cranked and ran perfectly every time prior to when it didn't. We were packing up to leave after a nice few days at the lake. Hit the starter and....CLICK! Hit it again, and....CLICK! So, I figured the house batteries were too far down to turn over the starter on the generator and proceeded to make the ride home with just the dash air. Got home, replaced the batteries, hit the start button.....CLICK!! CLICK!! Nothing... After diagnosing all the voltages at the new batteries and at the generator connection, and checking/cleaning/retightening all cable connections from batteries to generator, and manually jumping the terminals on the solenoid to see if THAT was the problem....I ultimately had a bad starter and had to replace it.
With all that said, check everything you can before you decide that it's the starter and then replace the starter motor. Not an easy task, but do-able in your driveway with an extra pair of hands and some patience. Actually removing the starter and replacing it is easy. Getting the generator out of the basement bin to get access to the starter ON THE BACK OF THE GENERATOR....well that's another job. If/when you decide to do the job, also know that the fuel line may be a tad too short to pull the generator all the way out to where you can get to the starter. I had to buy extra fuel line and add a coupler to lengthen it. You CAN just remove the fuel line from the fuel pump to give the extra room you need, but then you can't test the new starter until you reinstall the generator and THEN you'll have to pull the generator back out if something is wrong.
So, here's a great source to get parts for your Onan generator:
Onan Generator Parts
And depending on which exact model of Onan generators you have, here's a parts manual:
Onan BGM Parts Manual
RE: dead house batteries
Another thought.....depending on the type of battery, they may be low on water/acid. But yeah, at 3.5VDC, they basically are toast now, so get some fresh ones and start again.
RE: Motor homes over the years
Although I've only owned 1 motorhome in my life...the one we have currently, I do believe that a combination of things are happening. One, I feel that the rush to produce as many units as possible for the market has caused manufacturers to cut corners and ultimately, quality. Two, I believe that we have the ability to know about problems around the world that we previously did not as a result of internet forums and Google searches and reviews posted online by less than satisfied customers. I don't think that, given the shear number of units sold each year, there is a significant, industry-wide problem. But rather, we have consumers that are more than willing to complain about a squeaky door hinge online and make it sound like an indication of overall poor quality of build, instead of simply spraying some lube on it and calling it a day. And now, because of the internet, we ALL can hear about it!
RE: 1996 HR Endeavor LE slide-out height adjustment
On my 1999 HR Endeavor, my slide is on the driver's side and contains the kitchen. There are 4 rollers that support the underside of the slide. Two of the rollers are located in the basement bins (forward and rear of slide) covered by a black plastic box that's screwed to the ceiling of the bins. There are also 2 rollers inside the coach, in the lower kitchen cabinets beneath the sink on the floor (you might have to remove the drawers to see them. All of those rollers are adjustable and that was how I adjusted the height of mine when it got out of whack. I made several small adjustments and then observed/measured to see if I was close. It might take you up to several hours to make the correct adjustments, but I'd suggest taking your time and making only small adjustments each time.
RE: Slide out Fuses
Just thinking out loud here... but is the parking brake set? I searched for an hour one time to find the problem why my levelers wouldn't deploy, and I found that I had forgotten to set the parking brake. You might also check that the ignition switch is completely in the off position. My slide won't go out with the key turned even slightly.
