RE: Dometic roof top ac unit
Another thought is to make sure that your freeze-control thermistor is in place and working properly. If not, the unit's coils will freeze up and it will not cool or move air until it defrosts. My front 15K unit started freezing up and not blowing cold air. Turns out, after removing the cover up top, the thermistor had fallen off the coil tube and allowed the coils to freeze up.
RE: Refrigerator has quit working on elec./ where is fuse?
do you have a gfi that needs to be reset. The outside refrigerator. plug should be connected to a gfi.
X2 - Happened to me a few weeks ago when washing the rig. I left her plugged into shore power to keep the A/Cs running and apparently I shot water into the refer's vent, hitting the electrical outlet and tripping the gfi. Reset the gif outlet upstream, and everything is back to working.
RE: Where to buy Flat Temper DOT Glass replacements
I had luck contacting Atwood directly to buy a replacement window for my driver's door. I think Dometic has purchased Atwood now, but you may still be able to contact them directly and get a replacement window.
You might also try here:
Lippert RV Windows
RE: 13,5K BTU vs. 15K BTU?
Another thought....if the problem is that your A/C units are freezing up, the above suggestions are very valid...cleaning, sealing, etc. But, you might also have a misplaced or bad freeze sensor. My 15K unit on the front kept freezing up and what I found was that the freeze sensor had fallen off the coil. After finding that last year, I put it back into place and resealed all the inside of the unit where the cold air was getting back into the air flow across the coils..... And, as of this morning at 80 degrees outside with about 85% humidity, (so thick you can cut the air with a knife)... it was a very comfy 70 degrees inside!
RE: Decisions
Thanks guys!! I can drive the 5th wheel have for years just can't back it up. I'm just looking for input as to which class c you'd suggest. Once again thanks for your help
Take a look at the newer Class C's that are built on the Mercedes Sprinter chassis. Winnebago Navion, and Holiday Rambler Prodigy are 2 that come to mind. There are others out there as well. We are seriously considering upgrading/downsizing to one of them.
RE: Generator question
I'd go with the genset overheated and shutdown as a result, as the explanation. And, if there's any part of the fuel line that is metal, it may have created an air bubble in the line and consequently a vapor lock.
900ft elevation is not really all that much when considering air/fuel mixture. In aviation, small-plane pilots will start to lean out the mixture when they get up around 2K-3K feet to compensate for the thinner air. If 900ft elevation actually did affect the mixture, the genset would likely have run a little rich and maybe smoked some, but I doubt it would have shut down, and if it's running rich, the extra fuel would cause a cooling effect on the engine.
RE: blocks for leveling under jacks and tires
I'll chime in to say that I've successfully used the yellow lego blocks as landing pads for the jacks, as well as to drive up on when there wasn't enough jack to get on level without lifting the rear wheels off the ground. I've never had a problem with them breaking, although they will warp slightly, and they are really bad about smashing into the ground if it's soft, (it can take quite the effort to dig them out when it's time to go). I left imprints on asphalt once, last year in September in Virginia Beach, in average 95 degree days for a week. But, my square block imprints were among the many round jack prints on the blacktop....and mine had pretty patterns... LOL! The campground should have poured concrete instead.......they readily admit that........
RE: Essential Tools or I sure wish I had brought............
Along with most of the stuff already mentioned, I added a couple of 20 ton bottle jacks and a 3-gallon air compressor with 50' air hose, air tools(impact wrench and ratchet), tire chuck, and deep-well sockets. Able to air up tires and/or put on the spare tire if caught with no roadside assistance available.
Devil's Backbone Brewing Company
In Lexington, VA. Anyone ever been?
Devil's Backbone Brewing Company
We are planning a trip there in the next couple of weeks, and I'm curious about the route there. It looks to have a few switchbacks once the route gets near the Blue Ridge Parkway in the mountains. Proposed route is:
US-501 N, US-29 N and US-60 W to N Wind Ln in South River
Anyone local to the area or familiar with those roads in/near Lexington that could chime in would be appreciated! And if you've been to their campground, how was it?
RE: Holiday Rambler Prodigy
....... I would look carefully at the CCC of any MH's you are considering. This info is sometimes hard to find on the MFG web sites. From what I have seen the sprinter models don't have as much as the gas models. Also I would try to find a model with the large pass thru storage bay in the rear, going from a Class A to a small C storage will be a lot less.
Good points! I'm not sure how to figure the CCC, but if I combine the listed axle weights at 12,130lbs, and subtract the GVWR of 10,858lbs, I get 1,272lbs left. So I would make a guess that with a full tank of fuel at 29 gallons at roughly 7lbs/gal being 203lbs, that leaves just north of 1,000lbs for people and cargo/food/water/beverage, etc. IS that the right way?
Holiday Rambler Prodigy
First post in Class C, as I have a Class A and spend most of my time over there!
My question is..... are there any opinions (good or bad) on the 2019 Holiday Rambler Prodigy? We are considering downsizing, but upgrading our current 1999 36' Class A Endeavor gasser.
We are also interested in looking at the Winnebago Navion, so any opinions on that one or similar models are appreciated!
RE: Generator, inside coach switches won’t start.
Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Specifically, a priming issue. Does your indoor switches have the "prime" position? (On many of the Onans, you can push it towards the "OFF" position and hold it for around 10 seconds to prime fuel into the carb bowl before engaging the starter.) Reason I ask, is that my unit does NOT have that feature on the inside switch. It is a simple momentary rocker switch. It primes from the engine turning over. The switch on the genset itself will push towards the "OFF" position, but doesn't activate the fuel pump. I have to hold the choke until it pulls enough fuel in.
Try cold starting the genset from the switch on the genset itself first. If it is hard starting from there when it's cold, then I can't see any problem with the inside switches. Once the genset is "warm", there's already fuel in the carb bowl and it should start right up. When it's cold, the fuel in the bowl has likely evaporated and unless you can prime it, it takes several cycles of the engine turning over to pull fuel into the bowl to inject into the carb for combustion. I suspect, it starts right up from the genset switch because you've already primed it enough from turning the engine over when attempting to start it from the inside.
RE: WHAT!
Yeah, I saw the news on that situation this morning. I completely stand with Camping World on keeping that flag flying!! Every time I pass it on the highway, my heart gets full and my eyes start to leak a little at the beauty of that giant American Flag flying proudly and freely! There should be exceptions to every local sign/flag ordinance that allow any sized American Flag, no matter where it's flown, as long as it's not any kind of safety hazard like blocking an intersection view!
RE: Winnebago Intent 26M
Has anyone that is wanting a small Class A or C bought or looked at the Winnebago 26M? If so has it met your expectations? What got my attention just looking at their web site was 26'6" length, 48 gals of FW and a large rear pass thru storage bay along with the 362hp 3 valve Ford engine. All of the shorter Class C's 24-26 ft I had been looking at just had the 2 valve 305hp eng. less storage and less FW. I can't find the CCC from their site but assume it is much greater than the C's on either the Ford or Sprinter chassis.
We are seriously wanting to look at the Winnebago Navion, Class C. It is listed at 25'8" and has 3 or 4 different configurations. It's on the Mercedes chassis and seems to get really good reviews. A friend of ours got one recently and LOVES it. Just another model for you to look at.......
RE: Rear Leaf Spring Replacement
Geez...after getting all the parts delivered, and everything torn apart on one wheel well, find out that whereas the actual spring is correct, there are 2 spacer blocks that are attached to the original springs, and must be in place, else the rig will squat even lower with the new springs. So.....had to stop, order longer centering pins for the new springs so we can break them apart to add the spacers on the bottom of the spring pack. THEN....we discover that the gold-plated mounting hardware from Ford (u-bolts, nuts, top plates, end bolts, washers...not really gold but priced as such and only available from Ford due to odd lengths and sizes) were the wrong parts......so, after arguing with the parts guy at the Ford place he calls me back to look at his computer and discovers that there are actually 2 different rear suspension diagrams for the 1999 F53 chassis, and the one he ordered parts from was NOT the one I needed.......now, we wait for the new, CORRECT hardware to arrive next week and then pay double labor to the shop to open everything back up and get it all replaced.
THAT'S why I don't go to Vegas and play table games.......
RE: Fueling a gasser...
Yes, have had that problem since we purchased it, and the former owner said it was consistently a problem as well. My solution has been to lower the stabilizers on the fill side and jack up that side of the RV during filling, essentially making the fill angle more steep and less chance for the fuel to bubble back into the fill line, causing it to kick back off. Seems to be working well for me for the past few years. So far, no problems with doing that.....
RE: Front end wobble after hitting a bump
Another vote for something loose in the front end. Check all end links, drag links, tie rods, and all bushings/grease fittings. Might also check the steering box. I had a 1968 VW Beetle that would randomly go into a steering wobble...so bad that it would jerk the wheel from my hands and once almost sent me into on-coming traffic. After checking all connections, bearings, bushings, brakes, etc., ....I replaced the steering box and the problem went away.
RE: Rear Leaf Spring Replacement
Who’s doing the repairs?
A local repair shop. The same mechanic that did the front spring replacement. No, it's not a suspension specialist. The closest one for bigger rigs (mainly heavy trucks) is about 2 hours away...other side of Winston-Salem. I went to them initially and after they looked at it, they wouldn't even align it until after the springs and kingpins were replaced. So, I asked them to work up a price to do just that.....it's 4 years later and I'm still waiting.
The shop I'm using is owned by a guy that I've known since he was a kid. He went to truck mechanic school and has become a top notch mechanic. Opened his own place about 3 years ago. He primarily does small automotive repairs, but when I twisted his arm a little, he agreed to do my rig. I've also used him to replace the brake calipers and brake lines a few years back.
Rear Leaf Spring Replacement
Soooo, 3 years ago, after noticing that the front springs were in a negative arch, I decided to install air bag helper springs (Firestone Ride Rite) to see if that would help. It did, but after riding with just the air bags to make up the difference, I still noticed a significant amount of lean and dip/dive in curves. I bit the bullet and ordered new leaf springs for the front. Before last season, had them installed and, wow what a difference.....except that it restored the original ride height to the front, and made big girl squat like the young bucks' ridiculous-looking pickup trucks with the so-called "Carolina Squat." And, she still has more body roll than I want to deal with.
Well, she goes under the knife tomorrow to replace the rear springs, add rear air bag helper springs and new Bilstein shocks all around. I'll probably get the shop to do the CHF while they are under there. The parts were expensive enough, and I'm NOT looking forward to the labor costs. BUT, I don't have enough equipment at home to do the job in my driveway. Looking forward to her driving like a new one!! We'll see......
